Garage door openers

cathead

cathead

CATWERKS LTD
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Yesterday I pushed the button to open the shop door and nothing happened so I had to manually open the door to get my
skid steer out so I could push snow. After I was done with that, I removed the garage door opener to see if I could find out
why it didn't work at all. It was DEAD.:faint: I looked it over and couldn't find anything wrong with it so went to town to buy another
one. After checking three places and not liking any of the garage door openers at all. No, I don't want an emergency battery
in it and certainly not WI-FI or even the light sensors or maybe infrared sensors so went home without one.


The next step was to remove the circuit board from the unit and try to find out what was going on. The first thing I found was the
limit switch was a little loose on the circuit board and the solder connections could be seen as loose but only by using a 10 power
lens. I soldered the three connections and reinstalled the board and still it was DEAD!:eek 2:
Then I looked over the suspected electrolytic capacitors and did some testing using my home made ESR tester. I found a 100MFD
at 50 volt capacitor that didn't even register as a capacitor so replaced it. After reinstalling the board again, the unit showed some life.:angel:
After that it was a relatively easy matter to reinstall the opener and connect up the chain and mount the opener in it's usual position.
Also, I replaced one of the light bulbs that was inoperative with an LED after cleaning up the cabinet and bulb cover.




The arrow points to the SPDT switch which was loose on the board.
P1030866.JPG
P1030867.JPG
The above photo shows the three connections that had worked loose on the board.
P1030868.JPGThis photo shows how I stiffened up the mounting of the switch using cyanoacrylate glue and baking soda. Also in the photo is the large electrolytic
capacitor that I replaced with another from the junk box that tested good.


So all in all it was an interesting day with a positive ending with no expense. There are two garage door openers in the shop and the other
one I found doesn't work either. I had thought of just swapping them at first but since it was dead too, I elected trying a repair on the first one.
Now at my leisure, I can take a look at the other one and see what might be it's demise. Stanley no longer is in the garage door opener business
so it's up to me to keep them working or replace them. Have a good day out there in HM land.:encourage:
 
Good deal! Power supply capacitors are always suspect on old stuff like that.
Are those units old enough to still have metal gears? They went to plastic at some point
-M
 
Does anyone know where I can find a circuit diagram for this Stanley model 2300 garage door opener?

The second opener is seemingly more difficult to fix.
I replaced the suspect electrolytic capacitors and verified that the voltage regulator is functional. Now I need
a circuit diagram so I can trouble shoot.

The unit itself has opened the door probably 20 times in it's life.......grrrr....:frown:
 
markba633csi said:
Good deal! Power supply capacitors are always suspect on old stuff like that.
Are those units old enough to still have metal gears? They went to plastic at some point
-M
Click to expand...
Yes, metal gears and chain.:encourage:
 
Googles BARD AI said it could not find it on the internet but it said this when I asked it who sold parts:

Here are some companies that sell parts for a Stanley 2300 garage door opener:

  • North Shore Commercial Door
  • Moving Up Garage Door Company
  • DIY Garage Door Parts
  • Stanley Garage Door Parts
Please note that these are just a few examples, and there may be other companies that sell parts for a Stanley 2300 garage door opener.
 
cathead said:
Yesterday I pushed the button to open the shop door and nothing happened so I had to manually open the door to get my
skid steer out so I could push snow. After I was done with that, I removed the garage door opener to see if I could find out
why it didn't work at all. It was DEAD.:faint: I looked it over and couldn't find anything wrong with it so went to town to buy another
one. After checking three places and not liking any of the garage door openers at all. No, I don't want an emergency battery
in it and certainly not WI-FI or even the light sensors or maybe infrared sensors so went home without one.


The next step was to remove the circuit board from the unit and try to find out what was going on. The first thing I found was the
limit switch was a little loose on the circuit board and the solder connections could be seen as loose but only by using a 10 power
lens. I soldered the three connections and reinstalled the board and still it was DEAD!:eek 2:
Then I looked over the suspected electrolytic capacitors and did some testing using my home made ESR tester. I found a 100MFD
at 50 volt capacitor that didn't even register as a capacitor so replaced it. After reinstalling the board again, the unit showed some life.:angel:
After that it was a relatively easy matter to reinstall the opener and connect up the chain and mount the opener in it's usual position.
Also, I replaced one of the light bulbs that was inoperative with an LED after cleaning up the cabinet and bulb cover.




The arrow points to the SPDT switch which was loose on the board.
View attachment 442190
View attachment 442191
The above photo shows the three connections that had worked loose on the board.
View attachment 442192This photo shows how I stiffened up the mounting of the switch using cyanoacrylate glue and baking soda. Also in the photo is the large electrolytic
capacitor that I replaced with another from the junk box that tested good.


So all in all it was an interesting day with a positive ending with no expense. There are two garage door openers in the shop and the other
one I found doesn't work either. I had thought of just swapping them at first but since it was dead too, I elected trying a repair on the first one.
Now at my leisure, I can take a look at the other one and see what might be it's demise. Stanley no longer is in the garage door opener business
so it's up to me to keep them working or replace them. Have a good day out there in HM land.:encourage:
Click to expand...
I use hot glue to firm up electronics. Baking soda is sodium (salt) so I would be worried about it conducting. I have used ca and baking soda on model planes, boy it kicks off fast, and hot.
 
I wanted a little more clearance so I added an extension made from a spare piece of straight track, I also made my own brackets out of lightweight angle iron. Not shown is the motor mounted directly to the ceiling. If the top of the track is closer to the ceiling than 7 inches, the door may run into the door opener track.
 

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From the patent #s on the board I found this: might help- the patent 4141010 has the digital decode part in more detail (not shown here)
Mainly you want to determine is it a failure in the RF front end or in the backend power section (or even a bad motor or cap)

Stanlyfrontend.pngStnleybackend.png
 
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There's three relays one for the lights and the other two for open and close. By jumpering those to ground one at a time at the transistor side you should be able to get the motor to run. The leaf switch is normally closed for one direction, till it gets pushed by the door bracket/arm to stop
Statistically the problem should be at the backend power side rather than the RF front end
But not necessarily so
 
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