Gear depth of cut question

benmychree said:
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Sorry John,but I still have questions. This is used on a vertical setup right? And if so, does the device lay flat on the bed clamped around a longish arbor I asume,locking locking against a pin in the bed groove and spinning in the wood or am I waaaay of track here? I don't consider myself as the most intelligent person in the world, but this is as if I can't get the gears in my head to mesh......pun intended. I am sorry if this is frustrating for you, but imagine this side of the conversation.
 
I think basically what he is doing is providing a 'drag' on the cutter to prevent chatter... the pieces of wood are clamped to the spinning arbor, but not solidly... the arbor slips inside the wood... to cancel out the backlash in the spindle...?

If I have this wrong, please correct me...

-Bear
 
On this job coming up,I have another small problem. The Module 5 cutter OD is 90mm (3.5433") ,I don't it yet,but I know thw OD. My probleem: Slowest spindle speed is 220rpm. I think spindle speed should be slower for that size cutter,but my machine does not go slower. My question: Would I be OK if I do a slow feed rate?
 
Few years ago I cut some gears using a fly cutter
Read somewhere I think in Gear Cutting by Ivan Law that
gashing with a slit saw first then cut the gear full depth one pass
Seemed to work okay
The gears were smaller ones 20 tooth 24 DP
 
Thanks Nigel. I think someone else also mentioned that to me,but that does not quite solve my problem with rpm and preserving the cutter.
 
Thought that by gashing it first It might be easier on the cutter
I ran the mill under 200 rpm about 160 if I remember rightly
Never tried a modular gear cutter thought they would be better
It took about 8 hours to cut it so the feed rate was slow
 
I have no doubt that your method would help relieving stress on the cutter.I also read somewhere that someone used a narrower cutter so to speak,I guess it does not matter what DP or module as long as the form is narrower than the final cutter,to do the first pass and then use the cutter intended for the gear. I recon that could work as long as you can maintain the depth of cut of the intended cutter.
 
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