Generic slitting saw arbors

[Aukai]

slitting, and slotting saws all have a key way slot. the generic arbors with all of the steps to hold different sizes have no key for a fixed position. Is there enough tension on the blades for the generics to work, or should I be looking for the correct arbor diameter with a key? Hope this makes sense.....

 

[Cadillac]

I think it has a lot to do with the job. Using as a slitting saw cutting a thin slice within a reasonable depth I see no problem using a keyless arbor. Trying to cut a 1/4 slot 1/4 deep in one shot I’d be using a keyed arbor. The stepped arbor also allows cutting close to the vise while not a lot of stick out above the vise jaws. A keyed arbor has a large nut so you need at least that much clearance above the holding device. Each have their place and uses.

 

[bhigdog]

I have a universal arbor. Always keep my witts about me and never get greedy. No problems so far. ...........Bob

 

[tech610]

I use a shop made arbor without the key slot. Works great on my mini-mill. It will stall before the saw will start spinning.

 

[mikey]

A friend gave me one of those generic multi-blade arbors and I felt it didn't hold the blade accurately and the large cap got in the way when using smaller blades up close to the work. I passed that arbor on and the guy I gave it to really likes it so ...

I prefer the Sierra American saw holders. Simple enough to copy but theirs are hardened and pretty accurate. The saw fits with close slip fit, which helps accuracy. I like that the cap is thin; this allows you to get closer to the work. And yes, it holds a thin slitting saw very securely, with no need for a key. You have to buy a separate arbor for different hole diameters, which is sort of a negative I guess. Anyway, have a look: http://www.sierraamerican.com/slitting-saw-arbors/

 

[Bob Korves]

The best answer is to make your own. I prefer one designed so you can true the arbor up using a lathe tool mounted in the vise for a skim cut every time you mount it. 100% guaranteed to have zero runout every time... The design should be changed to carry additional material for the light cuts. I have one with the rings for the different sizes, and it is a piece of junk.

 

[Aukai]

Thank you, I got a 1" cuz I was gifted a couple of blades that size. I haven't ventured into the make your own YET, thanks Bob.

 

[ddickey]

1" is mostly what I have also, I believe they're the most common.
Making an arbor is not too hard and a good project. I've never had a blade slip. Just make sure you insert the blade so it rotates clockwise when viewed from the top or it could loosen.
About half way down is a print for an arbor.

Tool Plans | Machining Techniques

www.machiningtechniques.net

I copied Stefan's arbor though.

 

[Larry42]

Tom Lipton had a video about slitting saws (Oxtool.) He really didn't like the multi step type. I bought a Chinese arbor with Key. It is OK but the nut end is really big, limiting where you can cut. One day I needed to get much closer so I made an arbor.
Did some serious slitting and afterwards the machine screw I used to hold the blade washer on was so tight I've never been able to get it off. The blade never slipped. Time to make a new one, slightly different this time. I found out the hard way that slitting saws are really hard & therefore brittle. I've never seen one that didn't have runout.

 

[Aukai]

Thank you Duane