@pontiac428 My goodness, man, I feel your pain. This was me, last Thursday (already documented in the SB subforum):
My lathe is smaller than yours, and I had more space. I was able to right it with an engine hoist, though I ran that hoist right to its limits and sweated bullets the whole time. I had to jack it up just to get clearance under it for the hoist leg.
(The front loader on my tractor can lift a 500-pound safe, but nowhere near sufficient capacity for the lathe. Also, the leveling feet on the head end look bent, but they are not. The feet are 3/8" steel plate on a swivel machined into the end of the 1/2" threaded rod. The feet are rated at 5000 pounds each. I rested them on 1/2" steel plates 3" in diameter (same as the feet), with building paper between the interfaces, as South Bend recommended if anchor bolts were not going to be used. The threaded rod sits on the leveling nut with the load distributed using a 3" x 3/8" high-strength fender washer that had a close-fitting 1/2" hole.)
I attached a strap to the bed crossbar nearest the spindle, after removing the tailstock and the remains of the taper attachment, and then cranked the saddle out to the tail (which itself had to wait until I'd lifted it slightly). As I picked it up, the tail swung around (slowly, a bit at a time). During part of the lift, one caster on the hoist was lifting slightly as the legs deflected. Shorts were soiled. It ended up upright oriented north-south, when it had started east-west.
I carefully lifted it back onto the pieces of my skid and put the skid back together. With that, we repositioned it at the desired spot. (More about the skates in a moment.)
Then, I lifted the head with a wide motorcycle jack (2-ton rated)—with cribbing—enough to remove the 2x12 cross part of the skid. Then, I expanded the 4x4's enough to provide lowering room. I then set the head end down on cribbing.
I used the hoist to lift the tail end, removed the skid altogether, installed the leveling feet, and then set the tail down.
Finally, with the hoist as a "safety", and with cribbing in place (I'm good at learning lessons too late), I picked up the head end just enough to slip in the leveling feet and lower it down.
And here it is sitting on its feet.
Back to the skates. You can see one on the floor in the last photo. The skates I used are very low profile, made from 4" junior channel turned flat. The axles are half-inch bolts, with a pair of bearings on the outboard ends to act as wheels (8 per skate). Most importantly, they have a hole in the top with a half-inch nut welded on the underside to allow a bolt to drop down from the top. The bolt doesn't need to be tight, just screwed in, so that if the skate is unweighted, it stays in place. But I spent a lot of time with these turning those skates using a pry bar.
The skid and the skates were what I did right, and therefore unsuitable for this thread. Lifting the head end from below using a narrow toe jack, with the carriage and tailstock pushed up close to the head (which reduced the weight on the tail legs to help them provide stability), without a hoist as a safety--those are the mistakes that are appropriate for this thread.
Without the hoist, a chainfall from an 8-foot piece of the LVL used as the joist beams for the roof trusses in that barn (read: 2-1/2 x 14" laminated beam) draped across at least four of those truss bottom chords (which are 2x12's that support an attic floor rated at 40 psf) would have been the next (and probably better) choice. I have a chainfall, but it's rated at one ton and I don't trust it even there. But now that I think about it, doing that with the engine hoist working together might have saved my shorts from soilage.
Rick "tears were not shed but only because ladies were present" Denney
