Goofs & Blunders You Should Avoid.

I put one of those wooden shed kits together a number of years ago. During the build I kept checking each 2x3 as I pulled them from the stack and rejecting the ones that were bowed/warped/twisted.

The shed turned out great, however, in the end I was left with a pile of rejects and nothing else to build the door with!
The twisted ones would have worked fine for the walls, just not for the door.
I did the best I could with the lumber that was left and ended up needing several "toggles" between the two doors and at the top of each door just to keep the doors mostly mouse-proof.

I could have fixed it afterwards by buying more wood, but instead I left it as a constant reminder to think thru the operations from start to finish during the work.

I still have to turn several toggle to open that shed.
My wife says it feels like going thru Maxwell Smarts apartment door.

-brino
 
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I put one of those wooden shed kits together a number of years ago. During the build I kept checking each 2x3 as I pulled them from the stack and rejecting the ones that were bowed/warped/twisted.

The shed turned out great, however, in the end I was left with a pile of rejects and nothing else to build the door with!
The twisted one would have worked fine for the walls, just not for the door.
I did the best I could with the lumber that was left and ended up needing several "toggles" between the two doors and at the top of each door just to keep the doors mostly mouse-proof.

I could have fixed it afterwards by buying more wood, but instead I left it as a constant reminder to think thru the operations from start to finish during the work.

I still have to turn several toggle to open that shed.
My wife says it feels like going thru Maxwell Smarts apartment door.

-brino
Sorry about that Chief.
 
No,mine are fluted all the way up
to the distance a normal twist drill would be fluted. They are HSS,not carbide. Their sides are ground into a relief too,just leaving the "margin" touching the edges of the hole they are drilling.

I have not seen them for sale anywhere,which seems too bad because they would be useful drills to have. I guess now days no one would know what to do with them.
 
Not me, but at the shop today a guy running 80" long 5" X 1/2" steel bars in a 4020 Fadal mill using 3 vices to hold them, these machines have removable panels on each end of the enclosure, he had them off.
After one end is done it rapids towards the front to make it easier to move.

The part sticking outside hit a steel roof coloumn and rotated the machine, it weighs 10,500 Lb's. Made quite the racket.
Where's the pictures , that must have been scary as bell.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwia-bC5laHOAhXI8x4KHdLWBCsQjRwIBw&url=http://www.dirwww.com/2011-fadal-vmc-4020-ht-cmc-vertical-machining-center.html&psig=AFQjCNH1heYeTPARhJD4InSj0Tc7CdmQ0w&ust=1470173531584744
 
No pictures, it happens very quickly, that machine rapids at 200 inches per minute which is quite slow by 2016 standards, modern machines of this size will rapid at 1000 inches per minute or more.
 
Yeah, I've heard that....something about a needle and a bulldozer.;)
 
This doesn't apply to experienced folks, but for newbies (we were all newbies at one time): Don't adjust the crossfeed dial (to whatever amount) and expect that it'll remove that exact amount. I did that many times, thinking there was something wrong with the machine, until someone explained to me that there was something called, "tool spring". Perhaps it's not too bad with really stout machines, but for "normal" home shop size lathes (and milling machines, perhaps), tool spring can account for quite a bit of "error".
 
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