Got My First Lathe... Logan 1875 - With Restoration.

Thank you all for the the likes..

I made this electrolysis project much harder, longer and costly then it need be. Except for the science and fun I had there is no need to do what I did here in the photos, I just wanted to see the action as it was happening.

It might be better to use a hard plastic kiddie Pool like the one used in Keith Rucker Youtube Videos... That would do the trick and for around $12.00 instead of $70.00 plus a half days work for my clear plastic tank - plus another 4 hours to turn down 21 rebar for making and holding the anodes.

Some photos so you can see how it was done..

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Is that ammeter dc rated?

Most are only rated for AC but typical battery charger is not filtered so it may sort of work.

We may need to try the pool stuff someday.

We tried to find washing soda and given the data we had it was that or lye we use lye and pick it up at yard and estate sales.

You have discovered the concentrate alters the current as does the surface area.

We only use a couple electrodes in a 30 gallon trash can and rotate ends for longer items.

Our SB 14.5 bed was too long and heavy but nasty greasy so we just used the grill cleaner on it.

You did well with your first build.

We suggest going online to ebay and getting a SHUNT for the ammeter as it is very accurate and less worry about dropping an instrument in the tank.

They are basically a real low value high precision resistor that goes in circuit and give a multiplier output like 1 milli - volt per amp.

Measure voltage with a hf voltmeter and you are good.

We have car batteries for helping the dc power source as the current starts small then increases as the crud comes off but decreases when the corn dogs form.

Get a shunt and scrap panel meter or get an old school automotive direct reading ammeter and use it as it allows you to know when to clean the electrodes


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Is that ammeter dc rated?

Most are only rated for dc but typical battery charger is not filtered so it may sort of work.

We may need to try the pool stuff someday.

We tried to find washing soda and given the data we had it was that or lye we use lye and pick it up at yard and estate sales.

You have discovered the concentrate alters the current as does the surface area.

We only use a couple electrodes in a 30 gallon trash can and rotate ends for longer items.

Our SB 14.5 bed was too long and heavy but nasty greasy so we just used the grill cleaner on it.

You did well with your first build.

We suggest going online to ebay and getting a SHUNT for the ammeter as it is very accurate and less worry about dropping an instrument in the tank.

They are basically a real low value high precision resistor that goes in circuit and give a multiplier output like 1 milli - volt per amp.

Measure voltage with a hf voltmeter and you are good.

We have car batteries for helping the dc power source as the current starts small then increases as the crud comes off but decreases when the corn dogs form.

Get a shunt and scrap panel meter or get an old school automotive direct reading ammeter and use it as it allows you to know when to clean the electrodes


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk

Sup TQ..

No that Amp Meter is not DC compliant, No hall effect sensor.. But it works well with my 30 year old 12V Transformer Charger.
Charger is set to charge the battery at 2 Amps in first photo then 10 Amps second photo - Note This Meter will not work on new electronic charger...!

The Amp Meter may not be dead on accurate. But it told me exactly what I needed to know when I was doing the electrolysis and my chargers thermal protection cut in, which was will the amp draw lower if I lower the amount of Sodium Carbonate and or remove a bank of anodes, which it did.

Most people no little about Electricity or how it works - Its very cool you noticed and asked, this old style transformers battery charger doesn't output pure DC current like a battery does, so any amp meter will register.

And no the charger is not in contact with the lathe Bed

Charger2Amps.jpg Charger10Amps.jpg

I could not find Arm & Hammer Washing Soda anywhere which is also 100% sodium Carbonate, So I Googled it and found many product contain 100% Sodium Carbonate.

LOL I have used Oven Cleaner to get paint off before, most notably my Ex-Girl friends name off my car door in High school, but I worried that it may damage the lathe.

I heard previously on wood working forums about using Electrolysis to remove rust, before this whole lathe thing started and when it was suggested to me on this forum it made sense to me.

Thank you for the first build complement, and your right I should be using a Shunt to check current. I'm a service Tech by trade with formal training in AC, Heating and electronics.

Thanks for all the Info, I bet Your South Bend Is amazing, and you can make really cool stuff.
personally I don't need a lathe but Ive always wanted one, I know ill never be even close to any of you guys in its use - but I can count so many time I've said to my self... if I only had a lathe I could fix that.. it was time to get one.

Nice talking to ya - Mike S
 
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Congrats on your new lathe, Mike! Happy for you.

If you plan to soak that whole bed in Evaporust then its going to get pretty costly. Why not consider using an electrolytic bath instead? It would cost you a few dollars for the washing soda at the market and it will take off all the rust and paint without damaging the parent metal and with zero physical effort. You can build a plywood box and line it with plastic sheet and I bet it would come out really nice. Just a thought.

Thanks for suggesting I do Electrolysis on the Logan lathe, It was a very fun informative Project. It did a good job removing most all the paint and rust, I am very happy with the results and will do rest of the lathe parts this way.

Right now I would say the lathe bed and supports are ready for a finish, before I start that I was wondering if I put the Lathe Bed back in for a second electrolysis session, would that help with the aged staining of the ways and brighten them up a bit...?
Thanks Mikey..!

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Thanks for suggesting I do Electrolysis on the Logan lathe, It was a very fun informative Project. It did a good job removing most all the paint and rust, I am very happy with the results and will do rest of the lathe parts this way.

Right now I would say the lathe bed and supports are ready for a finish, before I start that I was wondering if I put the Lathe Bed back in for a second electrolysis session, would that help with the aged staining of the ways and brighten them up a bit...?
Thanks Mikey..!

View attachment 242112

Sorry but ERR will not remove stains like that. Normally, stains do not affect function so you can just oil over them and ignore them. If they bug you, try some WD-40 and Scotchbrite and they will usually shine up. Not much metal is removed with this so it won't affect the function of the lathe.

Glad ERR worked for you. Anything that will save you work is a good thing to know about!
 
Sorry but ERR will not remove stains like that. Normally, stains do not affect function so you can just oil over them and ignore them. If they bug you, try some WD-40 and Scotchbrite and they will usually shine up. Not much metal is removed with this so it won't affect the function of the lathe.

Glad ERR worked for you. Anything that will save you work is a good thing to know about!

Thanks for the quick response Mike..

The stains and nicks on the ways don't really bother me much, I just wanted to check before I begin the finishing work.
 
Thanks for the quick response Mike..

The stains and nicks on the ways don't really bother me much, I just wanted to check before I begin the finishing work.

You did a great job on de-rusting your lathe bed, Mike. I know how much work it was but it came out really clean. Your restoration will be beautiful, I'm sure. Keep us posted, please. Most of us love seeing an old machine brought back to life; I know she'll have a better life in your hands.
 
Question my fellow citizens..!
Is there any reason " Or is it blasphemy " If I paint this Logan Lathe Other then the factory Blue color..? If need be I will be happy to go with a factory color, just thought white would give it a more modern look like the newer lathes on the market.

I was thinking of going with a Dark Grey for the base and chip catcher, and Satin White for the lathe body, Supports and Saddle with Handles and knobs Dark Grey to match the base.
Also what Type / Brand of paint would you recommend, I was thinking a qrt can of Rust-Oleum Oil Based paint would do the trick. Or an amazing water based solution if anyone knows of a good one. Thanks Mike.
 
Question my fellow citizens..!
Is there any reason " Or is it blasphemy " If I paint this Logan Lathe Other then the factory Blue color..? If need be I will be happy to go with a factory color, just thought white would give it a more modern look like the newer lathes on the market.

I was thinking of going with a Dark Grey for the base and chip catcher, and Satin White for the lathe body, Supports and Saddle with Handles and knobs Dark Grey to match the base.
Also what Type / Brand of paint would you recommend, I was thinking a qrt can of Rust-Oleum Oil Based paint would do the trick. Or an amazing water based solution if anyone knows of a good one. Thanks Mike.
Hey, nice work so far.

I've just painted a harrison l5 white if you're interested in what it may look like, I have a thread in the antique and vintage section .

I like it, it may not be to everyone's taste but that's okay, they don't have to look at it everyday.

I used super etch for a primer then wattyl killrust metal epoxy for a top coat.

Done 2 coats with a brush and wasn't geting a very desirable finish so brought a 200ml touch up gun and it came up mint!

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I've just painted a harrison l5 white if you're interested in what it may look like, I have a thread in the antique and vintage section .

Yes.. Yes I love it, Looks Fabulous... You have done a great job - all the problems you had with that lathe, you overcame them one at a time and now shes a beauty. Congrats..!
 
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