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vista_joe

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Jim,
I don't think the switches from automationdirect will be exact replacements - but I'm really glad you pointed me to this site as there are many goodies there. I'll try to determine the exact set of contacts on the originals - the 22mm switches for 3 positions are very reasonably priced ($15). The knob diameter is larger than the original - don't know the mounting hole size until I remove one of the originals.

Izzy,
I found a reference in a notes file from Bridgeport that indicates the Series II were basically hand built to order and had many options. The two I have are quite different from each other. One has an Erickson Quick Change 40 spindle while the other one has a standard NTMB 40 taper spindle. One can have two separate heads and has at least 7" more clearance between the table and spindle. The motors are of different manufacturers. All of this on machines that were built within 3 years of each other.
Both have power feeds on the knee, x and y axis plus power quill feed. One has a 3 axis Newall DRO.

Now I have to proceed to find all of the places I need to oil (and ensure the automatic oiler is working). I've got a manual that shows this for series I but not series II.

The quill on my working machine really sticks after it has been sitting for minutes - I've read that I need to use lots of wd40 to clean out gunk that may have accumulated on the quill.

Joe
 

Izzy

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@vista_joe my quill was also very tight I set the quill stop at the verry bottom so I had the full range of motion with it and just kept feeding it in an out whipping up old dirty oil on the way down and applying wd40 on the way up and finally I lubed the spindle once I was happy with how it moved
 
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Izzy

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Oh also make sure the quill feed oil cup is full its right behind the head near the auto quill feed control box
 

vista_joe

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Izzy - yet another difference... One of my machines has the oil cup there (the working / older machine) but the other machine has the oil cup on the front of the head just left of the vertical scale.

I've cleaned the quill on the working machine - not completely happy with it yet as it still sticks after remaining inactive for awhile. I did use 409 to clean it, then wd40 a lot and filled the oil cup with spindle oil.

The other one is more of a problem as the manual lever for the quill will not grab the shaft to move the quill. I tried tightening the hex head bolt in the lever but it still just rotates around the shaft. I can move the lever in / out about .2" on the shaft - whether the bolt is tightened or removed. I cannot simply pull the lever off the shaft (haven't tried lots of force). I need to figure out what is going on here. Looks like I'm missing some parts on the end of the shaft.

This is from the 480v machine
20161109_224724.jpg

This is from the working machine.
20161109_230638.jpg
Joe
 
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Izzy

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I'll take a look at my machine and see if can find anything that could help, won't be until this weekend though.
 

Izzy

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Well I have bit of an unfortunate update... I dropped off my motor at a motor shop and had them take a look at it. It has been re-wound for 460 only but apparently it wasn't done correctly guy said I was lucky I didn't try to start it yet! Also he was saying the bearing bores had been damaged and needed to be re-bored! What are the odds of something like that happening? He said I was looking at 650 to do it all :( could I just get a new motor for cheaper here? What are my options at this point? This is such a buzz kill :(
 

vista_joe

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Bummer! I've not heard of the bearing bores being damaged. Perhaps the bearings froze up and then spun inside the bores? Sorry - I don't know anything about availability/pricing for the motor. I rewound an old (very large) 1.5 hp single phase motor by hand in my younger days and it was a lot of wear and tear on my hands. I can see why they charge a lot to rewind motors (hopefully they have some type of machinery help).
 

vista_joe

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I made some progress on my 480v machine yesterday. I bought a duplicate motor starter/contactor set on eBay. That allowed me to do some experimenting without removing the one in my machine and learn about all of the terminals. I could not find any specs etc. that would help understanding the terminal connections. I figured out that a previous owner had done some re-wiring in an attempt to get it working and they did it incorrectly. I corrected the wiring and am now able to use the control panel buttons to start/stop the spindle motor. I haven't let it run long yet - hope I don't run into a problem with it.

As a part of doing all this, I am re-creating the drawings so I have a good readable set that matches my machine. This is a time consuming task but I think it will be well worth it. It has helped me understand the functioning of the various relays / contactors etc.

The area I have concern now is in the motor driver module for the power feed DC motors. I do not have any schematics for it and it is in an enclosed aluminum chassis which makes it difficult to troubleshoot. Guess I'll eventually have to take it out of the chassis to gain easier access if I don't find another issue that is preventing it from running. I haven't found a part number for it but it is a Dayton brand. The number of wires going in/out of this module does not match what the wiring diagram would indicate (7 vs 9). In any event this is my next area of investigation - to get the power feed motors functional.
 

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Izzy

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I'm think my feed motor controller is an Allen bradley, its deffinetly different from yours but can't remember right now.
On the plus side I just scored a bridgeport vice for 40 bucks!
 

vista_joe

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That is great - should help cover the motor cost. Hopefully you didn't have to pay shipping!

I think I figured out the issue of a different number of wires in/out of the feed motor controller. There is an extra relay external to the controller that performs a function normally done within the feed motor controller. I think I'm OK there, but I still can't get any power out of the controller. I have essentially completed the drawings related to the feed motor controller and relays. Looks like I'm going to take the controller out of it's chassis to troubleshoot. There are a few other things I have to check first.

My other bridgeport has a different feed motor controller which would have been easier to troubleshoot. Note the 'creative' fuse someone put on the left side of the circuit board.
 

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Izzy

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Sorry to revive an old thread but I just recently got the ole Bridgeport up and running and had to chime in and give a big thanks to everyone that helped! I used a 5hp RPC into a 9KVA 220-440 transformer. I wired 120vac directly from the breaker panel to the control side if the machine and everything works! More or less. I found out that my motor controller was bad and changed that out @vista_joe the motor controller in the last picture you posted is the updated version. Now I believe my feed motor is no good. And unfortunately the quill feed motor is no good either but I kinda knew that before I powered it as the motor is cracked right in half.
I've taken some cuts with it boy does it ever hog some metal! But I'm concerned I may have bad spindle bearing or something of the like. However I've never ran one of these specifically so I'm not sure how loud these are supposed to be. I have a woble on my cutter that I measured to be about .003" the bearing top plate was at about 60°C after an hour of heavy cuts and that seems normal to me. I checked the speeds with a laser tach and my lowest speed in high gear is about 1000 and it should go down to about 450 I don't know if the 2 problems are related. And finally the spindle load meter doesn't seem right it free spins at about 85% then when I take a cute it goes down to about 65%. Thanks again for all the help guys!
 

vista_joe

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Izzy,
I'm glad to hear that you have the machine running. That is a huge step.
What did you finally do regarding your spindle motor? Replace? Rewire? Ignore?
Where did you find the replacement motor controller / cost?

I have not made any progress on my Series II machines. The head butt I did with the tail end of the ram disabled me for about 4 or 5 months and I couldn't really do anything. I had severe dizzy spells - even went to a neurologist for tests.
I also had my gall bladder removed later in 1017 which was another few months recovery.

My shop was so hot/cold I couldn't work much of the time. I finally just jumped off the deep end and had closed cell foam sprayed under my roof. I still need to add insulation to the garage doors and seal under them. At least I can now control the temperature to a 'reasonable' working environment. While I have the shop 'cleared out' I am going to install LED lights to replace the current fluorescent lighting. Too many projects...

Hopefully I'll eventually get around to working on the Series II again.

However - as usual - I have some new toys to work with that make priority over the Series II efforts.
I bought a Series I BOSS 5 CNC machine - can run Mach 3. So learning CNC / Fusion 360 is in my future.
I also bought a Grizzly G0602 lathe and plan to convert it to CNC. I found a very good conversion example that I'm going to follow:
I will use both the BOSS 5 and the working Series II to manufacture some of the required parts for the conversion.

I think the BOSS 5 improvements and the G0602 efforts will be higher priority than the Series II.
I still want the Series II done - but have to prioritize my efforts. I don't have the energy that I used to have.
 

Izzy

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All I did was wire up an rpc Into a transformer and I just gave the machine the original 440 3phase it used to run on. I'm just curious about the condition of my spindle bearings. You said you had one running? Could you post a video of that one starting up and winding down?
 

Izzy

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Sounds like yours starts up faster than mine. What's the spindle load meter at when it just free spinning? Mines up around 80-85%...
 

vista_joe

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Ok - I just checked and when up to speed (idling ~1500 - 2000 rpm) the load meter was in the middle of the red section - above 100%. I don't know what it is supposed to be but that does not sound like a useful value.
 

Izzy

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I had asked one other person who has a series 2 and thiers sits at around 20% just free spinning. The load meter is supposed to tell you how much power the motor is drawing. Mine actually dips down to about 60% when I take a cut which seems odd to me
 
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