Grinding Lathe Tools & Tool Holder Induced Back Rake?

Bonden

Registered
Registered
Joined
Nov 19, 2013
Messages
14
My Atlas 618 came with a lantern tool post, but the concave washer was broken. There was a carbide tool bit (3/8" square shank) in the lantern post, with some large flat washers fitted over the post under the bit, raising it to the correct height and supporting it quite solidly, but holding it dead horizontal. I took that as an example of how I might proceed with some new HSS bits, as the dozens of carbide bits that came with the lathe all seemed chipped. I didn't know anything of back rake or of the Armstrong type tool holders at that time...

As a complete novice to metal lathe work as of maybe eight lathe-operating-hours ago, I ground a couple 3/8" square 5% cobalt HSS tool bits per Tubalcain on Youtube, and they could cut about .010" to .015" per pass from oiled mild steel, under ideal conditions, and generate a fair amount of oil smoke.

But now I see in the SBL book, _How To Run A Lathe_, that for mild steel it specifies using the Armstrong Williams type tool holders, which add 16.5 degrees back rake to the tools, and presumably remove 16.5 degrees of front clearance. And it shows in Figure 56 a front clearance of 3 to 15 degrees, after back rake is accounted for.

Then to complicate it further, I see in the Tubalcain video he specifies (video #1, 4:24) the use of the tool holders that add 16.5 degree back rake, which I have not done, using my tools flat, but ground to his specs...

And it seems many guys use tool holders that hold the tool flat level (as I have done) and don’t add any back rake, let alone 16.5 degrees! Instructions I've found on grinding tools mostly don't specify if they are grinding tools for horizontal tool holders or 16.5 degree back rake tool holders, except for the SBL book and Tubalcain.

With all the emphasis on the importance of exact tool geometry, I must be missing something huge.

Is there some standard reference that differentiates between grinding tools for use with 16.5 degree back rake holders vs no back rake holders?

Is the Sherline instruction good basic geometry for a tool with no holder-induced back rake? I notice, in Figures 10 A & B, he specifies not making the "usual" pronounced hook, which is the same as minimizing back rake, and which he says is a good compromise of minimal lost cutting performance versus easier sharpening...

It seems maybe back rake was over-rated in the old school methods? Or, does back rake give a more slicing and less scraping cutting tendency that may be more important to larger lathes taking a deeper cut, or production versus hobby applications? Very interested to know.

Any discussion, comments or advice on this would be most welcome.

“Education: the path from cocky ignorance to miserable uncertainty.”
― Mark Twain
 
Here's how I took all the voodoo out of cutter grinding. I bought a quick change tool post and some indexable cutters and I immediately started cutting on my lathe. :lmao: I only grind my own when i need a special profile now.... Try it, you'll like it. :thumbsup:
 
I am no expert, but from my understanding, all your grind angles need to figure in the angle of the tool holder also. The angle should include any angle the tool holder imparts. I will try to dig out some picture examples.



I stand ready to be corrected =]

bedwards

ToolBitGrinds.jpg
 
Last edited:
My Atlas 618 came with a lantern tool post, but the concave washer was broken. There was a carbide tool bit (3/8" square shank) in the lantern post, with some large flat washers fitted over the post under the bit, raising it to the correct height and supporting it quite solidly, but holding it dead horizontal. I took that as an example of how I might proceed with some new HSS bits, as the dozens of carbide bits that came with the lathe all seemed chipped. I didn't know anything of back rake or of the Armstrong type tool holders at that time...

As a complete novice to metal lathe work as of maybe eight lathe-operating-hours ago, I ground a couple 3/8" square 5% cobalt HSS tool bits per Tubalcain on Youtube, and they could cut about .010" to .015" per pass from oiled mild steel, under ideal conditions, and generate a fair amount of oil smoke.

But now I see in the SBL book, _How To Run A Lathe_, that for mild steel it specifies using the Armstrong Williams type tool holders, which add 16.5 degrees back rake to the tools, and presumably remove 16.5 degrees of front clearance. And it shows in Figure 56 a front clearance of 3 to 15 degrees, after back rake is accounted for.

Then to complicate it further, I see in the Tubalcain video he specifies (video #1, 4:24) the use of the tool holders that add 16.5 degree back rake, which I have not done, using my tools flat, but ground to his specs...

And it seems many guys use tool holders that hold the tool flat level (as I have done) and don’t add any back rake, let alone 16.5 degrees! Instructions I've found on grinding tools mostly don't specify if they are grinding tools for horizontal tool holders or 16.5 degree back rake tool holders, except for the SBL book and Tubalcain.

With all the emphasis on the importance of exact tool geometry, I must be missing something huge.

Is there some standard reference that differentiates between grinding tools for use with 16.5 degree back rake holders vs no back rake holders?

Is the Sherline instruction good basic geometry for a tool with no holder-induced back rake? I notice, in Figures 10 A & B, he specifies not making the "usual" pronounced hook, which is the same as minimizing back rake, and which he says is a good compromise of minimal lost cutting performance versus easier sharpening...

It seems maybe back rake was over-rated in the old school methods? Or, does back rake give a more slicing and less scraping cutting tendency that may be more important to larger lathes taking a deeper cut, or production versus hobby applications? Very interested to know.

Any discussion, comments or advice on this would be most welcome.

“Education: the path from cocky ignorance to miserable uncertainty.”
― Mark Twain

Usually if the tool doesn't rub the work piece you should be okay. I haven't used that style of tool holder since high school.
 
3/8 is too large for that lathe (and is a pain to grind), 1/4 will work fine. I normally leave the top of the bit flat (no back rake) and set it up horizontally. 2 simple grinds and you are done.

Here's a basic RH bit: None of the angles are really critical

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qCpIxq0kHzo

You can use it for facing as well, just rotate the compound counterclockwise.
 
Last edited:
Here's how I took all the voodoo out of cutter grinding. I bought a quick change tool post and some indexable cutters and I immediately started cutting on my lathe. :lmao: I only grind my own when i need a special profile now.... Try it, you'll like it. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the advice!

Was going to do just as you suggest both for trying the experience of just using them instead of HSS, as some do, and then also to have them on hand for when carbide is clearly the best choice (although as a novice that is not entirely clear to me yet...).

Obviously, many very experienced and wise machinists use HSS tool bits over any other choice, and some have made a convincing case for it. After reading dozens of discussions on the topic, and having ground and used HSS, I lean strongly that way myself, although I clearly will have to learn and experiment with the various possibilities.

Would you mind advising re what size indexable cutters are best for an Atlas 618? For a SBL 10L? Your favorite brand and model?
 
I am no expert, but from my understanding, all your grind angles need to figure in the angle of the tool holder also. The angle should include any angle the tool holder imparts. I will try to dig out some picture examples.

Thanks for the image showing an instance where both cases are clearly considered. Saved it to my folder on tool design and geometry.

It does make sense the intended position of the tool should dictate the angles, but I was amazed at how few specifically mention this one way or the other when explaining how to grind tools -- clearly many tools ground per popular and specific instructions would not work in the "old school" tool holders due to insufficient front clearance.

Interesting how many obviously experienced guys don't bother with any back rake at all, and also set the tools horizontal, as I did (just in simple imitation, not from knowledge), yet most of the older information indicates large back rake was more or less a firm rule back when.

My issue was in trying to decide if I should buy the "old school" tool holders that were apparently original equipment for my setup, but i see now that I should just hold tools horizontally and not bother with back rake.

As a novice its hard to know what's important, and my lack of experience kept me from knowing if my cutting was good, or if it was sub-par because of what seemed like a huge difference after i learned about the existence of it -- 16.5 degrees difference in any machine tool angle seems too huge to ignore...

Its maybe a little like that old joke where the hermit walks out of the woods bringing his new-fangled chainsaw back to the dealer. The hermit says he's having lots of trouble making it saw, and in fact he can't get it to saw nearly as well as his old manual bow saw. The dealer pulls the cord, starts up the saw and runs it. The startled hermit goes wide-eyed and yells "What's that infernal racket?"

I was wondering if maybe i was like that hermit. Wish I had taken machine shop in high school when I had the chance back in the mid-70s.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Z2V
Thanks for the advice!

Was going to do just as you suggest both for trying the experience of just using them instead of HSS, as some do, and then also to have them on hand for when carbide is clearly the best choice (although as a novice that is not entirely clear to me yet...).

Obviously, many very experienced and wise machinists use HSS tool bits over any other choice, and some have made a convincing case for it. After reading dozens of discussions on the topic, and having ground and used HSS, I lean strongly that way myself, although I clearly will have to learn and experiment with the various possibilities.

Would you mind advising re what size indexable cutters are best for an Atlas 618? For a SBL 10L? Your favorite brand and model?
Here's a tool post set. I don't have this particular post, actually this one is a better wedge type, http://www.ebay.com/itm/AXA-Wedge-T...1?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding&hash=item3f2b7da9c9 . You can use regular HSS bits in these tool holders, no problem. Heres an indexable tool holder set that will get you going. It's cheap. it'll get you going, and for the price it won't break the bank. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-5-PC-IN...120?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c3939daa0 . You can always upgrade the indexable tool holders later on.

Marcel
 
I bought a QCTP for mine and haven't looked back. I kept the old lantern stuff just in case. Sounds like you need an AXA size. Be advised if you go the QCTP way you will most likely have to fit the nut in the base to your compound. It will probably not fit right out of the box. It is no big deal if you have a mill, if not, I'm sure one of the guys on the forum will cut it down for you.



bedwards
 
Bonden - you've got some good advise already but just wanted to add the A2Z QCTP from Little Machine Shop is also not a bad post and quite a nice size for the 618. Don't throw your lantern away yet, you will find some applications where the small size of the 618 needs the lantern style to get your tool where you want it. Also, that little hump on the top of the compound does limit the orientation of the square tool posts - another workaround where a lantern style comes in real handy.

I have both and as yet can't really say which one I use more.

-frank
 
Back
Top