Grizzly 0704 dead

Well the fuse was replaced and still dead. I took out the screws and the boards to look them over. I cannot see any blown components. I pulled off the white and black wires that go to the circuit board and checked them, the fuse did its job and and there is 110 voltage to the circuit board. I came in the house to look at the manual and then went back out in the garage. Now I forgot which post I took the back and white wire off. Getting old sucks. Is the white wire on the post nearest the back of the machine????
Next will check the switch for continuity

cold in garage. Tomorrow is another day. It will be going in the basement when my two sons come over for turkey day. Three of us should be able to get it down the stairs on a dolly

gary
 
I've been following this thread with anticipation. I was hoping it was just the fuse, but something inside me said that fuse blew for a reason. Is that motor 110v or DC? I just pulled up the spec sheet, it looks like a 110v motor. But I'm not sure now. It might be DC. If it's AC, Maybe try 110v to the motor directly, at least that'll eliminate the motor as the cause. Check you switch for proper function with a continuity test. If those 2 things check out the, i think the only thing between the switch and the motor is the board. Then you'll know that you need a new board. Somebody above suggested a better cheaper board to replace it.
 
Last edited:
Well the fuse was replaced and still dead. I took out the screws and the boards to look them over. I cannot see any blown components. I pulled off the white and black wires that go to the circuit board and checked them, the fuse did its job and and there is 110 voltage to the circuit board. I came in the house to look at the manual and then went back out in the garage. Now I forgot which post I took the back and white wire off. Getting old sucks. Is the white wire on the post nearest the back of the machine????
Next will check the switch for continuity

cold in garage. Tomorrow is another day. It will be going in the basement when my two sons come over for turkey day. Three of us should be able to get it down the stairs on a dolly

gary


On the terminals that say L1 / L2? It doesn't matter since it is AC.
The output going to the motor is DC. However, I wouldn't be surprised if that motor is universal, so it can run from DC or AC. However the manual states not to run the motor at full speed for more than a few minutes. Not sure what gives out first the motor or the controller but I do remember people burning them up at high speeds.

I would remove the leads to the motor and measure the DC voltage there. The higher the speed pot is set the higher the voltage will be. If you're not getting a good voltage out of the controller it may be need to be replaced. Be careful, it is a lot of voltage with a lot of available current and will put a hurtin on you in a bad way.

Here is a picture of the grizzly controller (silver) next to the KBIC controller (black). currently the grizzly controller is attached to the lathe but they will soon be swapped. Pic is just to show how similar the two units are. So if you need more help than the grizzly manual provides look up the KBIC manual.

IMG_20131125_213603_706.jpg

The Mill was upgraded to a 3 phase motor and VFD so I don't need it or the original motor or driver any more. If you find that one or the other needs to be replaced shoot me a PM and we can work something out.

Oh, one last thing. While working on mine I noticed a good portion of the crimped connection were less than half assed. Had several just fall off the wire. May want to check for any loose wires as well.

IMG_20131125_213603_706.jpg
 
I've been following this thread with anticipation. I was hoping it was just the fuse, but something inside me said that fuse blew for a reason. Is that motor 110v or DC? I just pulled up the spec sheet, it looks like a 110v motor. But I'm not sure now. It might be DC. If it's AC, Maybe try 110v to the motor directly, at least that'll eliminate the motor as the cause. Check you switch for proper function with a continuity test. If those 2 things check out the, i think the only thing between the switch and the motor is the board. Then you'll know that you need a new board. Somebody above suggested a better cheaper board to replace it.

The motors are permanent magnet reversible DC motors, so they will not run on AC. I'll have to look at the controller in my G0704, but I don't think it looks like the one posted by CodeRage - I have the back off my control box right now (need to replace the strain relief on the AC cord), so I'll try to get down there and take a photo of it. I remember there being two boards - one may be the tach, but Ill have to look at the wiring to be sure. One more thing - be sure to check teh chip guard interlock switch - it kills everything when the chip guard is swung out away from the machine, so make sure it is in position and that the switch is working.
 
Its the speed control here is the same kind that I have used for years there cheap and robust it is a copy of a dart speed control they work good.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAG-MC-30-t...io_Treadmills&hash=item19e546d987#ht_25wt_642


This is really easy if the motor has two wires and a ground (green) or if you can pull the cover of and see that it has a couple of brush holders then it is just a regular DC motor if it has three wires plus lets say red, black and blue and no brush holders then it is brushless and requires a differant speed control.

But lets say it is a regular brushed DC motor just take a battery charger of at least ten amps and hook up to the two wires to the motor 12V DC is enough to spin the motor and tell you if it is good. Ray
 
Last edited:
I took the wires for the motor, brown and black off the forward reverse switch and put them to the leads of a 12 volt 6 amp battery charger and nothing

there is one of the brush caps missing and tape over the missing plub, Brush looks ok. About a half inch long, I put it back in and tape back over where the cap should go, It seems to bottom out and there is pressure on the spring so it should be ok.... Should the motor show continuity if the VOM leads are put on the black and brown wire???? I think it should????

gary
 
I checked the chip door switch and that is working properly

should not there be some dc voltage coming from the transformer on the smaller circuit board. I cannot find any do voltage comings unto that transformer

gary
 
When I picked the mill up the owner told me about the broken brush cap

gary
 
I took the wires for the motor, brown and black off the forward reverse switch and put them to the leads of a 12 volt 6 amp battery charger and nothing

there is one of the brush caps missing and tape over the missing plug, Brush looks ok. About a half inch long, I put it back in and tape back over where the cap should go, It seems to bottom out and there is pressure on the spring so it should be ok.... Should the motor show continuity if the VOM leads are put on the black and brown wire???? I think it should????

gary

Gary

In my opinion, yes there should be a resistance across the wires from a DC motor if any good. Checking the brushes was a good thing. How about checking from a brush to a wire lead for continuity? 50-50 chance of testing the correct lead and brush.

Did you check for power to the motor?
 
Back
Top