Grizzly DF-1237G/G1003/Busy Bee Spindle/chuck Upgrade

kb58

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I'm considering upgrading my Grizzly DF-1237G. I was leaning towards selling it due to a persistent oil leak, and "just because", but it turns out that while the seals are unavailable from Grizzly, they're common enough that even Amazon stocks them, so I'm hesitating selling what otherwise is a pretty capable lathe. This then led to thoughts of a full disassembly, cleaning, paint, swapping the lathe stand for a tool chest (can always use more storage), adding a backsplash (so no more cleaning behind it)... and upgrading the spindle. This last bit could be tough because word has it that the spindle nose has some odd thread size which is a mix of metric and English dimensions.

I'm posting this to see if anyone has gone down this path before. Apparently the spindle has an MT5 taper, so that's good. I looked through the Bison online catalog and found what appears to be an MT5 back plate (part number 7-915-0605) which bolts straight to their chucks. One problem is that it doesn't seem to be available, but requires more digging. Assuming I'm not overlooking something huge and it does fit, the MT5 taper adaptor means giving up being able to pass material through the chuck. While I hardly ever need to, it sure is convenient as an option.

The other approach is to do it the hard way, making a backing plate that screws onto whatever oddball nose the spindle has. Though much harder, it opens the door to being able to mount a modern D1-4 camlock chuck. The hard part is making an accurate backing plate, one without an unintended taper or wobble... So, what say you?
 
First I own one of these leaky lathes... The spindle is 62mm by 8TPI (no, I am not kidding!)

I have a full set of seals, they are not expensive, but -- I have yet to figure out how to get the spindle out. One of our members has done it, but it looks like the job was done once before, so he had no problem - it came out easily.

On my lathe the bearings are a very tight interference fit, and they simply won't move...

Let me know if you plan to attempt it, and keep me posted on your progress if you do! One of my friends, Alan, had built several backing plates for his 12X37 with the same spindle. It's not hard, just takes work. Since it is my smaller lathe, and I'm getting pressed for space, I'm selling mine this year.

all the best!
 
The other approach is to do it the hard way, making a backing plate that screws onto whatever oddball nose the spindle has. Though much harder, it opens the door to being able to mount a modern D1-4 camlock chuck. The hard part is making an accurate backing plate, one without an unintended taper or wobble... So, what say you?
That sounds like the 'fun' way. Go for it, its doable, should give you lots of satisfaction.
 
I was just watching a "This Old Tony" video where he's making a new backing plate, and realized that I'm completely wrong about the MT5 taper. Not that it doesn't have one, but rather, I somehow got it in my head that the taper in the headstock was intended for holding the chuck.
 
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So you have a lathe to look at but it was from the video that you realized what you have?
 
Correct, my chuck is stuck on the lathe. In fact, if it doesn't come loose politely and something breaks, that could end the project before it starts. Anything else I can help clarify?
 
If the chuck is stuck on, place a bar across its face between the jaws and try tapping the bar to spin the chuck off. If still stuck, try heating the mounting area of the chuck to expand it.
 
Correct, my chuck is stuck on the lathe. In fact, if it doesn't come loose politely and something breaks, that could end the project before it starts. Anything else I can help clarify?
Have you tried removing the chuck? I don't see any risk of breaking something by removing the chuck.
 
Have you tried removing the chuck?
I assumed that by saying it was stuck, I didn't have to say I tried removing it... my bad. Yes, I tried removing it, and... it was stuck.

I don't see any risk of breaking something by removing the chuck.
I do, potentially breaking off gear teeth if excessive force is needed to break it free. I think I'll try jamming a piece of wood in the gearbox to serve as a soft stop for the gears and see how it goes.
 
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PLEASE DON'T jam wood into the gearbox. It puts significant unintended pressure on the gears - the is how to break either a bearing or a bearing race.

So, is there an obvious reason for it being stuck? rust? damage? What exactly have you done to remove the chuck? I went back an reviewed all your posts here, and I can't tell your level of of familiarity, and so I'm asking carefully and respectfully...

I can go over the procedure of removing the chuck, even if it is stuck, step by step if you'd like.

** I have had this lathe for 40 years now and I'm sure we can get the chuck off without compromising anything **
 
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