Grizzly G0602/G0752 Spindle replacement

I can tell you of an event with my G4003G where one of the DI5 clamps was not tight.
Bad surface finish,
weird noises,
fast tool wear,
That all went away instantly when I found the loose clamp.
 
I can tell you of an event with my G4003G where one of the DI5 clamps was not tight.
Bad surface finish,
weird noises,
fast tool wear,
That all went away instantly when I found the loose clamp.

What does your DI5 clamp do? Never heard of it and didn't see it on the grizzly parts page just wondering. It seems my problem is more with the spindle maybe being loose but am curious about your clamp.
 
DI is a system whereby chucks are held on spindles with 1/4 turn fasteners holding 1/2 moon studs in the chuck.
5 is the size (there are many), and 5 in particular has 6 studs and 1/4 turn holders.
See page 663 of 2018 catalog.
 
DI is a system whereby chucks are held on spindles with 1/4 turn fasteners holding 1/2 moon studs in the chuck.
5 is the size (there are many), and 5 in particular has 6 studs and 1/4 turn holders.
See page 663 of 2018 catalog.

Oh I see Mitch, that would make sense on why yours did what it did.

Has anyone had a chance to put a dial indicator up to their spindle and try to move the spindle by hand to see how much movement there is? Hopefully someone can help me out on this.
 
Crowbar used to attempt to move spindle back and forth.

Results, are zero on the indicators.

Have you ever greased wheel bearings like on a auto?

Those require a pre-load on the bearings...

A person can put an indicator on the spindle, or chuck, tighten
the retaining nut on the end of spindle, watch indicator needle move.

One turn of that nut will result in say .050, indicator movement.

So when nut is tight, another turn will result in .050 bearing load.

Another method used, get nut tight, then tighten nut 1/6 turn, which
is just eyeball that flat on the nut, move it 1/6 turn.

G0602 lathe.JPG









Charl
 
Hi xman...Thank you very much. Wow, no movement at all, with a crowbar? I must have a problem there. I can easily make mine move a couple thousands by hand. In the above posts, as I have said I replaced the spindle bearings with timkin bearings. Since, replaced and this problem showed I have tightened the nut on the end of the spindle very tight to see if it would make a difference, I wouldn't want to tighten anymore it seems, I still have the problem. Grizzly says not to put grease in the spindle bearings that to just oil everytime you use the lathe. I suppose it really shouldn't hurt if greased them, I was trying to follow grizzlys instructions. Im also wondering if the bearings I got just aren't suited well for the lathe. Maybe I should order the grizzly bearings and see what happens then. One thing I think of is on the G0752 it has the bearing then the spacer(washer) then it has a plastic insert that tells the vfd display the rpm's, then a plastic gear and then the spools and 2 nuts. Im wondering how good the preload is on the bearings with all that plastic between the bearings and the nuts to tighten, although it is the way they designed it and worked before. I also wonder if the problem is the left bearing (on the side of the gears) is pretty tight on the spindle and hard to get a preload on the bearing. Im thinking my best bet would be to get the grizzly bearings and see how they might work. Any input is appreciated.
 
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For anyone interested.... Finally got back to repairing my lathe. The wife had a total shoulder replacement and I was held up with taking her to Dr's, tests, etc. now she is done with the surgery and rehab hospital so I came back to the lathe. I replaced the spindle bearings again with the grizzly bearings. These seem better for the lathe than the timken ones I got. The timken ones I had seemed to have more play in them than the grizzly did and the grizzly bearing so far seem to be working well. not so much movement in the spindle now and the cuts so far are good. Not sure if timken may have some heavier duty ones than the ones I received but mine seemed to give problems. I wouldn't recommend the same ones I got from timken. Still need to test the performance a bit more but so far seems to be back to good cuts, etc. Hopefully wont have to go through this exercise again for some time.
 
Hello Warren, getting back to you over this bearings issue.
Seems like you're having a hard time.
Upon reassembly of your spindle you should've tightened the first of the locknuts till you thought everything was seated.
I would then have rotated the spindle by hand whilst tapping one end with a soft face hammer.
This seats the races in the headstock housing recesses. Repeat for other end.
Then check for endplay with a dial indicator by trying to manoeuvre the spindle axially to show a reading.
You will have to adjust the locknut to a point where there is no axial float as indicated.
You're now at a point nearing completion.
Assemble your drive gear and run the lathe slowly for say 10 minutes.
Then shutdown and do an axial endfloat check.
Adjust lock nut if required.
Power up again and run it faster and listen for abnormal noises. If it sounds good, power down and adjust your locknut 1/16th of a turn tighter. This will induce some preload in to the spindle/bearing assembly cause once everything warms up to operating temperature the spindle will elongate and preload will reduce. Achieving this " running efficiency " is the holy grail of tapered bearing adjustment.
At this point i would run the bearings in.
Then shutdown and let everything cool down at which time I'd do another endfloat test.
Next would be the headstock alignment.
Next would be some test cuts under power feed to gauge finishes.
After some serious playtime using your lathe , i would come back and check alignment and endfloat again in the cold state.
Adjust if necessary, bearing in mind there must be some form of preload on the bearings to achieve serious accuracy.
Excessive preload will cause excessive temperatures and shorten the life of your bearings.
Insufficient preload will cause terrible finishes and inaccuracies during setup also.
Reading your post told me you were almost there with your timkens, you just needed more adjustment for the bearings to be seated properly.
I don't know what brand bearings grizzly source, but if they don't have a quality name stamped on them, i won't buy them.
Hope this helps
Regards Alby
 
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Hi fitterman1, Thanks for the reply. Actually It seems I got it done. Have had together for a few months now and it seems to be working well for me now. I appreciate the thought...
 
No worries Warren, glad to hear you've got it sorted
 
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