Grizzly G0619 Mill Drill

LX Kid

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I've had my 6"x21" Mill/Drill for about 5 years now and put a table shuttle on it. Does anyone have a solution for raising the head assembly without getting a stroke? Mine really takes some crank work to raise it up. Coming down is no problem as it is "gravity at work." My left bicep is pretty strong from getting this work out! LoL Guess I'm gonna pull the back off and see if it needs cleaning and oiling anywhere. Maybe I even have my gib adjustments too tight but I really don't want gib too loose. I'll bet anything that is my problem though! (Gonna check that.)

(This might be a useless post. I think I just answered my own question!)

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I think I would put a little gear head motor and chain on that bad boy. Find a motor with enough snot to handle the load something that has forward and reverse and slow enough that you can control it.
 
I have heard those complaints before; don't think your problem is gigs too tight, just a poor design. Apparently the gearing associated with getting the z-axis control to the front of the table makes that a royal pain in the neck to raise.

Seems like I recall people putting pneumatic springs on the head or counterweights to solve some of that.

How about mount a stepper motor to the top of the column to drive the z-axis lead screw directly?
 
I have heard those complaints before; don't think your problem is gigs too tight, just a poor design. Apparently the gearing associated with getting the z-axis control to the front of the table makes that a royal pain in the neck to raise.

Seems like I recall people putting pneumatic springs on the head or counterweights to solve some of that.

How about mount a stepper motor to the top of the column to drive the z-axis lead screw directly?
I have this mill also and I found the gib was bad so I've ground it to to get rid of a high spot and gouge. That made things better but not great so gas springs were added, pleasant improvement but still not satisfied, so from grizzly I bought a 8 inch handwheel,(matches others in style),now I'm very happy,sooo... easy now.
 
Some people have put counter weights with pulleys on the ceiling. Some have used gas cylinders to take some of the weight. I have the same mill and I hate cranking it to the upper limit. I have a spare table drive, like you have, that I bought (it was nice having Grizzly tent sales so close) to use on the Z axis. One of these days I’ll get it installed.
 
I have this mill also and I found the gib was bad so I've ground it to to get rid of a high spot and gouge. That made things better but not great so gas springs were added, pleasant improvement but still not satisfied, so from grizzly I bought a 8 inch handwheel,(matches others in style),now I'm very happy,sooo... easy now.

Maybe I'll get a larger hand wheel and see how that goes. I'll also pull the gib out and see if it has high spots on it.
 
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Tried it and it is more easy to raise the mill head "but" those big wide loops take "forever" to raise it quickly. Back to checking the gib for high spots.


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I removed the back of the headstock and cleaned the acme screw of the factory grease. I then used white lithium grease, spray can type, on it and used oil for the upper and lower bearings. I also sprayed the ring and pinion gear with the lithium grease. It did make quite a difference but am wondering how long the lithium grease will stay on the screw. I've ordered a couple of 50 lb struts to add on the sides as others have done. Surprised how easy it is to get to the workings as it only has four allen head screw to disassemble. I did find a lot of swarf back there. (Guess I moved when I took the pic.)

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I have a G0619 that I bought used. I got real tired of cranking the Z axis hand wheel. I had an adaptor in my tool box that I bought cheap at Harbor Freight. The adaptor goes from 1/4 hex to 1/2" square drive. I couldn't find the exact product, but here is an expensive version: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200635643_200635643
I use a 14mm socket driven by my corded drill to drive the nut on the Z-axis hand wheel. I had to make the nut real tight, but it hasn't backed out yet. Saved a lot of hand cranking. I made a "holster" out of some sheet metal that is secured to the side of my bench.
 
I use a 14mm socket driven by my corded drill to drive the nut on the Z-axis hand wheel. I had to make the nut real tight, but it hasn't backed out yet. Saved a lot of hand cranking. I made a "holster" out of some sheet metal that is secured to the side of my bench.

Great idea! Thanks
 
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