Grizzly G4003 versus G4003G

Some of these lathes seems to be rather "standardized". Do many Grizzly parts fit on a PM lathe and vice-versa? I did read that PM only sells parts for machines they sell, but that's a different matter
OK, reiterating what Aaron_W said, it's pretty well known that numerous tools come from the same factory (factories), and are re-badged by the sellers. But each retailer can specify the various features they want. I think I read somewhere that PM and Griz buy from different factories ... but don't take this as a given.

If you're going between brands/sellers, the parts situation is pretty much a crap shoot. You can sometimes get an idea about whether something will interchange by carefully studying the parts diagrams for both machines, looking for similarities/differences in the details. But often, the diagrams look almost hand drawn, and so the critical details might be lacking. You can download Grizzly manuals and parts breakdowns from their website, and I think you can do so from PM's website - could be educational!

Finally, as Mutt said in post #4, even the buying parts from the same retailer where you got the original tool isn't a guarantee of success - features and designs change over time.
 
Go new. Unless you can wait and realistically set a time-frame to allow searching for a nice used lathe...otherwise you'll just keep waiting..and waiting...and not getting a lathe! Also, unless you feel you have the knowledge or have an experienced friend that will know what to look for in a used lathe it's very easy to get taken. I have a G4003g and haven't had any problems except the motor died but that gave me an excuse to go the VFD way. :) I've also dealt with Grizzly's customer service for other Grizzly items I have and never had a problem with them. I would compare prices and what you get between Grizzly and Precision Matthews's machines. I would not hesitate to go with a PM machine even though I've never bought anything from them. I've heard enough from others to know they're good guys who sell good machines at decent prices. We've all gotta make a buck but it's the after-sale support that goes a long way. I don't think you could go wrong with either brand.
 
I have a G4003g and haven't had any problems except the motor died but that gave me an excuse to go the VFD way.

I'm glad you like the machine. Does your comment mean you are running a 3-phase motor now?

Bill
 
I'm glad you like the machine. Does your comment mean you are running a 3-phase motor now?

Yes, I'm running a 3 phase 220v motor from a 1 phase 220v outlet via the VFD. Also, using a Machtach gives me RPM or SFM and I love it.
 
I have the G4003G for 6 years. Luv the machine and highly recommend it. The thread feeds go thru the GC gearbox and then are driven by the half nuts and leadscrew thread. The power feed ratios are different because they go thru the QC gearbox and then go thru gearing in the apron. The G model will feed as slow as .001/rev and will cut threads from 4 tp 112 tpi without gear changes. There are a few gear changes required for metric threading. The bore of the G4003G is 1.57" and since barrels and junkyard stock are so common in 1.5" OD, being able to pass that thru the headstock is a gamechanger. Th D1-5 spindle is also more rigid than the D1-4 on the non-G model. The bearings on the G4003G are higher quality and the outboard spider is really a necessity for long stock. Good luck in your quest!
 
The G model will feed as slow as .001/rev

Tubalcain (of YouTube fame) indicates that is desirable. He even points out that the SB Heavy 10 went down to .00076"/rev. (I could be off by a little numerically, but not in spirit). He had a lot of praise for that, explaining that you can get some very nice finishes. IIRC, his Craftsman Atlas only went down to .004"/rev., and his only explanation was that the designers "must have never used a lathe"... He rigged up his own feeding system for feeding it by motor from the tail end. I am glad to hear that you like the machine!

Bill_729
 
I have a few questions about the PM1236. I see that it is available with a "carriage stop and clutch".
Although I have seen a carriage stop which disengages the carriage feed, this does not seem to be the norm (I think).

1. Is it's use intended to support (the routine operation of) turning up to a shoulder with the feed screw?
If I understand correctly, on "most" (other small) lathes, you would feed the cutter to the shoulder by hand, using a carriage stop as more of a guide.

2. I've noticed that some people are doing DRO "on a budget" (significantly less than $450-$600). Same accuracy? Please don't write out a long answer to this because, as a hobbyist, I don't have an additional $600 for it right now, but I would be curious in whether you would advise me to try to add it on a budget.

3. I see a base which is 200# heavier is available for an additional $250. What factors would indicate whether this is a smart investment?'' Turning heavy asymmetrical work seems like one answer. Anything else? To be honest, I'm leaning towards it since I've always heard "heavy=good", but I like to understand the "why's" behind things. I can add a DRO anytime, but I have one chance to choose the base.

4. If you didn't buy the leveling feet (for $160), how would you level the machine? I assume you would level the base before you put a lathe on it (with an engine hoist), but then you would need to "fine tune" it, right? Do you basically need to bring out an engine hoist every time you wish to do so (to shim it)? At this point, I have neither a machinist level nor an engine hoist (where is my HF 25% off coupon?), but they are in the category of "planned expenses".

I hate to bother you with so many questions, but I figured it would be better to "get them all out there" all at once! Thank you!

Bill_729
 
I routinely do not use the carriage stop clutch as a hard stop for feeding, always been worried about the stop actually moving if hit hard. It needs to be tightened down securely. Still I use it as a safety backup when feeding close to a chuck or hard face.

Budget DRO's with glass scales in the $200-250 range work just as well and accurate (within specs) as those costing much more. You give up some things like support/warranty, a clear manual, better (functional) designed keypad/display, reliability and to some degree the seals on the scales (they tend to be poorer material single lip as opposed to double lip). But can vary significantly between low cost DRO's. If on a budget, they will do just fine and well worth the nominal expense.

On the base, I assume you are talking about sheet metal vs. cast iron base. Cast iron has very good vibration dampening properties and the added weight will provide increased rigidity/dampening. Yes, I would go with the cast iron base hands down, a good investment.

You need solid leveling feet to adjust out any bed twist, you also need a precision level to dial it in. The S & W leveling mount) feet you should be able to pick up for $8-15 each, most use 1/2" so BSW-2, BSW-2A if taller thread. Zoro routinely has 15-25% discount coupons/notices.

This eBay one is only worth considering if they combine shipping.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-S-W-BSW-2N-Leveling-Mount-1-2-13-J6T/172191197060


You can purchase a precision level for around $75

You are not bothering people by asking these questions, we all start out at the same place and gain knowledge as we go forward. If one thinks they know it all, then they are misguided, as the more you learn the more you realize the less you know.
 
Is the PM-1236 lathe made in Taiwan, or do you have to step up a notch for that "feature"?

Thanks,
Bill
 
My understanding is the Taiwan built PM machines end in a T, so the PM-1236 is made in China, the PM-1236-T Ultra Precision is made in Taiwan.

The 1236-T does include a few tangible differences beyond country of manufacture, slightly larger spindle bore (1-9/16" vs 1'1/2") and available with a 3 phase motor, probably others as well, but those were 2 that caught my eye.
 
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