Grizzly Lathe 12 x 24 G4002 Start Issue

After getting it back together, and then back where it goes, I spend 2 hours using it. So, ummm, maybe not totally fixed. It is rarely that simple.

I finished the bushings, and maybe had to start the lathe 30 or so times (rough cuts, measuring, more cuts, chip clearing, changing tool holders, drilling, boring, c'sink, reaming, finishing cuts, measuring, chamfers, polishing, parting, etc). Seems like about 4-6 of those times it did start, but not up to correct speed, maybe about 10 rpm. If I spun the chuck and started it at same time, it took off at normal speed. Was not making a loud hum when it didn't start right (not like yesterday), but was a soft hum.

Thinking the start cap is going, so will have to find one and see if that makes a difference. In my haste, I didn't take a photo of the cap lettering or measure the body, so have to undo everything and drag it out again. Ugh!
 
Sounds like you are on the right track. Both of those cap terminals look like they need to be resoldered again, with plenty of heat and rosin core solder. You may have to strip back the wires to get clean copper strands, and scrape the terminals clean to remove oxides and crud. Also with respect to post #8: capacitors can hold a substantial charge for long periods of time if they don't have a bleed resistor across them FYI. Often the cap will be automatically discharged when the motor comes to a stop and the centrifugal switch closes, but in some installations the caps can stay charged for days or weeks. Always assume a cap is charged when handling them.
-M
The motor's internal start switch may be failing from thousands of starts. Often, the contacts can be cleaned up to give several more years of service but this requires opening the motor up
When shopping for replacement capacitors, pay close attention to the length and diameter. Import machinery often has odd sized components compared to US aftermarket replacements.
 
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Mark has an excellent point about the soldier. On electrical and electronic work, always use rosin core soldier, never acid core. Not sure off your experience, soldiering is not difficult to learn but does take some practice. Tin your iron first with a little soldier. Hold the iron on the joint Tap the soldier on the joint not the iron. When the joint is hot enough, the soldier will flow. Then pull away the iron and soldier. It should take less than 10 seconds.
 
silence dogood said:
On electrical and electronic work, always use rosin core soldier, never acid core.
Click to expand...

The reason to use acid core is that the surface you are soldering needs to be (self) cleaned; that is what the acid does.
The reason to use rosin core solder is that you don't want the acid from the flux to eat the part away over time.
 
Acid core solder has it's place for soldering steel and some difficult to solder non-ferrous metals, but always use rosin core for electrical
-M
 
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