Grizzly T10295 7-pc indexable tool set inserts - which ones?

Similar to this one. Blade is 5/8" high, 1/8" wide (I think would have to go look at it to be sure).

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I just got one of these yesterday & haven't tried yet. Blad is tiny so I don't think it will be useful. Shank is small enough to fit in a regular BXA toolholder so it's probably about the right size tool for a mini lathe.

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I would use the one you had already with a brazed carbide blade on it. I'll see if I can find one in that size for you to try. Do you have a mill? If so I would make a plate to bolt on the side of the holder so that you could have locking screws perpendicular to the blade. That would keep it rigid enough so that the blade stays fixed. I haven't run much titanium but it looks to be similar in machining to 304SS. Run the carbide at 250 SFM at the start dia and it should work ok pending the lathe is rigid enough. I'll get back to you if I can find a blade.
 
Nix the carbide idea unless you have a carbide grinder to sharpen it on. I spoke with an old manual guy at work and he said the main problem is the 1\8" size on your tool. Go with a 3/32" with a 20 to 30 deg taper on the top with longest edge to the right and a 3 deg relief down the front. The key is being on center, square with the chuck and rigidity. Put the tool in the holder and verify you are at center, or a hair below, against a dead center in the tail stock. If you have tension stops on the carriage use them. Get in cut off position, tighten left to right and compound stops firmly. Insure you are parallel with the chuck, drag a indicator across the side of the blade if you have issues with this. Put a slight drag on the crosslide stop to prevent jumping in your leadscrew play. Applying the center will help greatly. If you can't center drill the part make a pressure pad out of aluminum with a centerdrilled hole on one side to go between the center and the part.
With the titanium it seems to work harden pretty quickly. Start out around 200 rpm and feed by hand fairly aggressively. Don't dwell or you will make your life miserable. If you have to break a chip release then get back into the cut quickly. When you get down to near a nub, 1/4"?or so remove center and finish the cut off. Like I said trying the 3/32" will help you out a lot. Good luck.
 
200 rpm? I part everything at 60 rpm. Maybe 180 for 6061, but i thought you were supposed to turn as slow as possible when parting. I turn Ti at 200 rpm under flood coolant but don't go any faster so I'm not sure about parting at that speed? I part it under flood coolant also, but I think that still generates a lot more heat than turning.

The indexable tool that came with this set did a pretty decent job. Stock was 1.650 so I couldn't get that last little nub in the center, but it was small enough that i could flex the part a little & snap it off. Might relieve the tool a hair so I can get a deeper cut out of it.

Definitely need to get different flavor inserts for the tools for different materials. Did a gun barrel yesterday & wasn't real happy with the surface finish - about the same as you'd get with a brazed carbide tool on 4140. But the shape of the tool was perfect for what I was doing and that made the job a lot easier.
 
I would use whatever RPM that has been working for you. If you are doing it with HSS definetly try the 3/32" width route. If going the insert able route I would use the holder above that you can slide in and out for depth adjustment. Have you tried the chop saw route if you are just cutting off pcs of material? I believe Norton makes wheels for the titanium.
 
Chop saw wont do 1/2" diameter even. Maybe I need a special blade. But the chop saw will cut maybe an 1/8" and then it will just sit there generating heat & brilliant white sparks. Work hardens pretty much as soon as the blade hits. I am using the HF black 14" chop saw. Tried their blades & the DeWalt one from Lowe's, so I'm sure there's something better out there. It does Ti tubing ok, but bar stock is a no-go.

I'm going to guess that people who cut it for a living use a band saw with a special blade & flood coolant.

Will try a thinner blade - makes sense that it would have an easier time plowing through.
 
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