Group Project: Rotary Broach-- Building complete, all shipped out!

I did pull that video of Stephan's up a couple days ago....but then saw it was something like 4 parts....nope. I'm gonna do some poking around now, but being in my 90* shop for the last 9 hours...I am BEAT!
 
GunsOfNavarone said:
Been a productive last 5 mins!
Click to expand...
This one here is a really nice and compact design! Probably my favorite so far. One thing I might think about changing on it is to do a 4-bolt circular flange for the connections, otherwise a rotary-table is required (and at least someone said they didn't have a good one).

It is another design that avoids using 2 bearings to control radial load. I suspect with the length in question it isn't that big of a deal to skip the other bearing. That one also uses the 'tap into calibration' method. Also it uses a bunch of those weird 'mms' all over the place :)
 
ErichKeane said:
This one here is a really nice and compact design! Probably my favorite so far. One thing I might think about changing on it is to do a 4-bolt circular flange for the connections, otherwise a rotary-table is required (and at least someone said they didn't have a good one).

It is another design that avoids using 2 bearings to control radial load. I suspect with the length in question it isn't that big of a deal to skip the other bearing. That one also uses the 'tap into calibration' method. Also it uses a bunch of those weird 'mms' all over the place :)
Click to expand...
I also don't understand the 1 mm step in the 'bearing holder' at the front, perhaps just clearance? His bearing is 32mm, so the front one seems unnecessary.
 
I think I would prefer a straight shank. Can hold it in a collet or drill chuck, so I could use it on the mill as well.
 
I've never made a Morse Taper before....if I were to use it mostly on my lathe, that would be my preference. Who knows, maybe I'll want to use it on my mill, in which case, 3/4"(or smaller) straight works. I guess I'm flexible, but how would you use a 3/4" straight on a lathe? You wouldn't I suspect.
 
GunsOfNavarone said:
I've never made a Morse Taper before....if I were to use it mostly on my lathe, that would be my preference. Who knows, maybe I'll want to use it on my mill, in which case, 3/4"(or smaller) straight works. I guess I'm flexible, but how would you use a 3/4" straight on a lathe? You wouldn't I suspect.
Click to expand...
You can just use a tailstock drill chuck.
 
Not with a 3/4"...MAYBE a half, but think about that overhang/weight. Each person could make the end that they want if it comes down to it, that's not a terribly difficult job, it's this rotary broach that is some kind of voodoo magic.
 
GunsOfNavarone said:
Not with a 3/4"...MAYBE a half, but think about that overhang/weight. Each person could make the end that they want if it comes down to it, that's not a terribly difficult job, it's this rotary broach that is some kind of voodoo magic.
Click to expand...
Yep, part of why I asked above :) I have a drill-chuck that goes to 5/8" and one that goes to 3/4".

For me with a big lathe, it wouldn't be that bad. Whoever gets the shank part could take orders if they cared to, otherwise I was leaning toward just designing a straight-shank. Note the shank is what introduces the 1degree angle though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top