guidance on relining a 22 LR rifle

[toad1163]

I am looking to get my ducks in a row for the next project. I have a Stevens model 16 Crackshot [the one with the side lever] that I found some years ago in a wall of a house , I was renovating. It is not in great shape , but not bad either . It has some surface rust but it is complete . The barrel however has some internal rust and I would like to reline it. Having said that, Its not a gun that worth a big investment and I will most likely never do another. Just a winter "look what I did" project.
This would be my first time so I thought I would post what questions I have here and hope for some guidance.

Let me start by saying that I own a Metal lathe [13 inch Sheldon ] and plan to use it for this project. I did some online research and have gotten some mixed advise. I plan to chuck up the barrel in the 4 jaw , centered on the bore. To drill the bore could I use a standard 5/18ths long shank bit , or do I have to buy a gun bit or make a "D" bit?

On chambering . Is there a way around needing a chamber reamer? I read something about using a #11 drill bit , then grinding a tool to cut the recess for the rimfire.

I have also read that some cut the chamber before installing the liner and some do it after. Any pros and cons on that?

Like I said this is on the drawing board . If its something that is going to run into too many greenbacks , I will just put it back up on the wall. Thanks

 

[pontiac428]

Is there any reason you chose to re-line the barrel, rather than just re-barrel the rifle? Forgive me, I haven't held a Stevens 22 in my hands for over 30 years. I just see too many difficulties with lining, including where to get a rifled liner blank, for a result that could never be as accurate as a solid 1-piece barrel. It looks like there would still be a lot of machining steps in a rebarrel job that would keep the project interesting.

 

[mickri]

Larry Potterfield at Midway has a video on relining a barrel. That might answer your questions.

 

[kev74]

This shows the process pretty well.

I don't know how you could get by without the chamber reamer. You could try making your own, but I know that would be above my skill set. There are places that will rent chamber reamers, too.

Looks like a fun project.

 

[kev74]

Larry Potterfield at Midway has a video on relining a barrel. That might answer your questions.

You beat me to it!

 

[toad1163]

I have seen that video by Larry Potterfeild and it does have some great information . Looks like he is using standard bits for the drilling. Brownells site however says to use a gun bit. The standard bits and 5/16ths end mill I already own so if I can use it that would be great. Thanks for the replies

 

[toad1163]

Is there any reason you chose to re-line the barrel, rather than just re-barrel the rifle? Forgive me, I haven't held a Stevens 22 in my hands for over 30 years. I just see too many difficulties with lining, including where to get a rifled liner blank, for a result that could never be as accurate as a solid 1-piece barrel. It looks like there would still be a lot of machining steps in a rebarrel job that would keep the project interesting.

I want to do the reline for a few reasons, The liner can be had for a fair price where as a replacement barrel [if you can find one in good shape] is rather costly . I also want the experience . As far a accuracy I have not read any bad comments about using a liner, If it were a match target rifle , I would not consider it but for a Crackshot I think it would be just fine. Thanks for the reply

 

[kev74]

I have seen that video by Larry Potterfeild and it does have some great information . Looks like he is using standard bits for the drilling. Brownells site however says to use a gun bit. The standard bits and 5/16ths end mill I already own so if I can use it that would be great. Thanks for the replies

The gun bit is just a longer drill bit, some with a short pilot section on the front. if you can extend a standard bit long enough there shouldn't be an issue.

 

[ELHEAD]

A couple of years ago I bored an old rusty 22 barrel to .27, reamed to .271 ultimate use was for a muzzleloader. Broke many quality bits , twisted ( unspirald), if there is such a word. After a lot of frustration turned to a cheap carbide masonry bit. Long bits were made by welding bits to drill rod. I believe a D-bit would be the way to go.

 

[derf]

I've done many with a piloted drill, you don't even need a lathe to do it. One of the tricks I've learned is to stop the drill about .030" from the muzzle. This leaves the crown intact, so after the epoxy cures you can cut a bevel crown to blend with the liner and it looks like an original crown.(the liner is not visible)


I've never used loctite, only epoxy. You need to make sure the liner is loose enough in the bore that it will rotate just by turning with your fingers.
I always plug the muzzle end of the liner with a bullet so epoxy doesn't get in. Fill the barrel with epoxy and let the excess run out, and coat the liner.
Hold the barrel vertical in a vise and start the liner in with a slight twisting motion, going slow enough to relieve trapped air and push out the excess epoxy. The important part is to make sure there are no voids in the epoxy and it covers 100%.