Bob. Thanks for that, I did not realise the feet leveling was only a finale, I thought it was the basic adjustment and everything else was reliant on it.
So, tomorrow (providing there are no other tasks needing a higher priority) will put feet back to level with carpenter's level as everything is doubtless out of kilter now, will then do the turned point in the chuck , align headstock to tailstock then run tailstock to far end and peep sight it and see what that tells me. If that agrees will then try for parrellel turn.
I see on the web that I should have an old double edge razor blade to insert between the 2 centres as the most accurate way of aligning them. Hmmm, will need to do some digging to find one of those!
However, if moving tailstock to far end is out of line with peep sight, what then?
The ways look nice, I think (and hope) that they are straight.
I suppose another check would be to dismantle the carriage/saddle and check for anything weird out of sight.
But that really will be a last resort.
Regards
Doug
Doug 1st. Rough lelvel is all you need to start.
2. Have you proved the headstock is square by turning parallel without the part supported in the tailstock that is the first test. Turn a piece as long as you can. It's no point proceeding until you have that.
3. now check the tailstock with a center point freshly machined in the chuck, adjust tailstock center to center. If you don't have a razor blade handy a piece of thin steel shim will work,, even a blade out of a box cutter will work, not quite as accurate, but close enough for this stage.
4. Now slide tailstock to the right and insert a test bar. with center pre drilled. You can start with a 1" cold rolled steel bar, or something better if you have it. Mount dial indicator on tool post or saddle, run indicator up and down length of bar should be close to parallel. Rotate bar 180 deg (roll chuck over by hand) confirm measurement is the same. If there is any error, from chuck to tailstock with indicator at tailstock end adjust tailstock to half the error, lock it and measure again. repeat until parallel to your requirements. Now for the proof, take a light cut from one end to the other, and measure with micrometer. make final adjustment as needed.
You can now test your peep sight if you wish, but you certainly don't need it here. And it just might be introducing an error.
Later down the track when your lathe castings have relaxed and you've acquired a better level you can fiddle with the levels but not really necessary unless you want to do toolroom quality work..
You only ever need the machine itself, a dial indicator and a level. to reset it if it ever gets out of whack, usually only after being moved, or a crash.
BTW the original factory settings were only ever valid in the factory, after it was shipped and relocated it should have been done again.
One other test you can do is place a largish piece in the chuck and face it, test with a straightedge for flat. this will confirm your saddle is square with the rest of the lathe.