Hafco AL900A lathe, is anyone able to identify what it really is?

Is that a brazed in tip. It looks home made and looks all wrong it's upside down and the rake is wrong, badly wrong, but it does look like a parting tool, just wrong.

Also the two holes with the rag stuffed in are for mounting a rear tool post or other attachment.

The other two holes at the back of the carriage are for mounting a taper turning attachment
 
Probably all once available for this lathe and unobtainable now. Unlikely that I will need them.
 
Bob.

Phone pics.
Gave up on camera years ago.
Phone is always charged and on me. 16mp quality but usually turned down to 8mp as sufficient for my needs and does not take up so much storage space.
Camera is 12mp, but does have a better lens (zoom). However, by the time the camera finishes analysing the focus/light/zodiac and whatever else it mucks around doing, any quick event has gone and I get a photo minus the subject. Phone beats it hands down there.
Likewise the torch app on the phone. Invaluable!
Camera is always not where I am because I did not intend to use it so didn't take it with me and it goes flat when not being used, so have to put it on charge for an hour first.

Doug.
Doug, have to agree with all the hassles re cameras, however I find that the camera just does take better pics, so I keep it charged if I think I might need it. plus my camera is just a little pocket snap job so it doesn't get too carried away with all the zoom analyzing and thinking, so don't miss many shots. I also have not come to terms with current phone for taking pics. (It's only two years old, give me time.) However at the moment my computer is refusing to read the cameras SD card.
 
Bob. Know the SD card problem had it myself. Does your camera have a USB adaptor cable? I always download direct from phone to computer. None of that software that comes with the phone, it only makes things difficult. I just use "explorer" in Windows and treat phone as an additional disk.
 
Probably all once available for this lathe and unobtainable now. Unlikely that I will need them.
Current models will probably still fit, but as far as rear tool post is concerned, quite easy to make. Quite a few articles on this and other forums on making them, also on You tube. You might consider making, getting one as they are reputed to solve most parting woes.

The other thing with parting problems is loose gibs on cross and compound slide, you should always lock compound when parting
That particular parting tool you had was developed some years ago in an attempt to solve some parting problems I understood they were generally successful

I haven't had the need to do much parting since getting my new lathe, but the little I've done has been fine, Usually you just need a sharp tool, on center and square to axis, good steady feed, but if any gibbs are loose or bearings a bit slack, it won't work. Check the faces under tool post must be perfectly flat and clean everything locked down tight.
 
Bob. Know the SD card problem had it myself. Does your camera have a USB adaptor cable? I always download direct from phone to computer. None of that software that comes with the phone, it only makes things difficult. I just use "explorer" in Windows and treat phone as an additional disk.

Yes I think I've got one somewhere, just have to find it. It's actually my partners camera, but she bought a new one and gave me this one, I'll ask if she knows where it is.
 
With a used/older unit, the tail stock will likely not be on center as you have found. The marks for the tail stock are not even close and as the ways and the bottom of the tail stock wear they are even further out. Another item to throw the whole thing out of true, is the ram and it’s locking mechanism. The further the ram is extended the worst things can get. Locking the ram can make a big difference.
 
Pierre

There are no marks on the tailstock for centreing, all I could go on was how even it sat on the base.

Your point noted about wear. I will make sure the ways are well oiled. When you think about it,
sliding the tailstock along the ways to centre tools or drill or support long jobs would all be
a significant point of wear. Admittedly not as much as the saddle constantly moving left to
right. But down that right hand end of the lathe, the ways would easily be overlooked.

I realised I had to lock the ram when I noticed it was backing off. Lesson learnt!

Regards
Doug
 
Lathe Identified!:eagerness:
20180613_114345.jpg

I am pretty well satisfied I have now identified the original manufacturer of the lathe. After much internet searching it would appear to be an early version of the Shenwai SW-900B.
It appears the company is long gone, sometime around 30 years ago.:(
They made 2 versions of the SW-900, mine with the vertical headstock control face and the SW-900 with the stepped headstock control face.
Mine does not have the light, on/off switch and green button above the threading ratio selector handles but in all other respects is obviously the same unit.
On the back of mine is a large "SW" sticker, which I think clinches it!

See attached photos.

,
Shenwai Catalogue-03.jpg
Shenwai Catalogue-02.jpg


In the photo of the grey lathe one that was auctioned in America, there is a very strange device in the tool holder, any ideas what that is?
But just as puzzling, what is the tailstock doing between the saddle and head stock?

original.jpg

106497141.jpg
 
Another point to check is the tailstock actually true to centerline of the lathe. So with the ram retracted line it up with the headstock now extend it fully and see if its still lined up, probably not. What's happening here is that if it's not lined up triue as you extend it, it will move out of alignment.
Another way to check it is with the tailstock locked to the bed, and ram fully extended and locked, set up a dial indicator on the carriage to track on the side of the ram, now wind the carriage the full length of the ram, the dial indicator will tell the sad story>

Another test while you're there loosen the ram lock and push/pull the ram side ways you'll see how much wear is in there. Then re-tighten the ram lock and slacken the tailstock/bed clamp, see how much movement is in there, be careful to not tilt the tailstock, just slide it sideways. and also twist it. This will show why you can not use the tailstock when setting up the headstock, it's just too unreliable, in fact it's just about the most unreliable part of alathe, you should always set it fresh each time you use it for anything important. If your tailstock is riding on a "V" bed then it should be pretty good in sideways movement, most of the wear will be confined to the ram. It's also pretty common for an older lathe for the tailstock to be below center, if it's over one thou, it can be shimmed.
 
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