Hand Scraper Design

I'm monkeying around with making a scraper to repair the cross-slide on the 1440 and would appreciate some input from those that use them.
I'm attempting to do this with materials that I have on-hand. The lathe crapped out at very a inconvenient time.
I had to take a pass on a decent bit of side work because with the stick-slip, I messed up the first three pieces. So the budget is hurting.

Richard sent me a copy of Keith Rucker's design. (Thanks Richard!)
I have a couple of questions about the design.
I've got a few pieces of 3/4" Sqr. carbide inserts that I'm trying to make do with. I realize that they are really not wide enough, however it's all I've come up with.

On Keith's design on the insert extension piece, the flat on the end is at 2° positive.
Does anyone know why? I'm wondering if it can be 'straight'.
1544029137363.png..........1544029129748.png

Here's my first take on it using the 3/4" insert.
I'm making a couple of needed ergonomic / handling modifications to it.
I made up a mock-up out of a file and then played around with it trying to mimic the way I've seen people handle them in videos.
A problem/difficulty has cropped up from this, with my left hand tendons messed up from some medicine, gripping the scraper becomes uncomfortable after a bit.

With this first take, I've made a change on the handle end so that I can try out different size handles if needed. They will be screw on.

My Left-Handed/Right-Handed -ness is odd. I write left handed but do a number of other things right handed, it just depends.
I haven't figured out which way I'll hold a scraper yet.

If I'm holding the end with my left hand, 1.5"-2" DIA. feels best and lessens the discomfort.
Scaper_drh_002.jpg
Then I've also added a 'Grip' handle for holding the shank left handed.
Scaper_drh_001.jpg

Thanks,
_Dan
 
I'm monkeying around with making a scraper to repair the cross-slide on the 1440 and would appreciate some input from those that use them.
I'm attempting to do this with materials that I have on-hand. The lathe crapped out at very a inconvenient time.
I had to take a pass on a decent bit of side work because with the stick-slip, I messed up the first three pieces. So the budget is hurting.

Richard sent me a copy of Keith Rucker's design. (Thanks Richard!)
I have a couple of questions about the design.
I've got a few pieces of 3/4" Sqr. carbide inserts that I'm trying to make do with. I realize that they are really not wide enough, however it's all I've come up with.

On Keith's design on the insert extension piece, the flat on the end is at 2° positive.
Does anyone know why? I'm wondering if it can be 'straight'.
View attachment 281589..........View attachment 281588

Here's my first take on it using the 3/4" insert.
I'm making a couple of needed ergonomic / handling modifications to it.
I made up a mock-up out of a file and then played around with it trying to mimic the way I've seen people handle them in videos.
A problem/difficulty has cropped up from this, with my left hand tendons messed up from some medicine, gripping the scraper becomes uncomfortable after a bit.

With this first take, I've made a change on the handle end so that I can try out different size handles if needed. They will be screw on.

My Left-Handed/Right-Handed -ness is odd. I write left handed but do a number of other things right handed, it just depends.
I haven't figured out which way I'll hold a scraper yet.

If I'm holding the end with my left hand, 1.5"-2" DIA. feels best and lessens the discomfort.
View attachment 281591
Then I've also added a 'Grip' handle for holding the shank left handed.
View attachment 281590

Thanks,
_Dan
What model & year is your 1440?
 
You can make a hand scrapper they way we used to in days gone by.
They are both cold rolled steel.
The one with the wooden file handle was the first that I made.
The second was handed down by a old scrapper hand I worked with, he made his in the early 70's.
I remember all the new scrapper hands making there own, during the process the boss would walk up and hand you a peice of carbide.
These are what is handy but I have several more that vary in length and width and cutting radius, my finish hand scrapper has a smaller radius ground on the cutting edge which narrowed the cutting width. The larger radius produced a wider cutting width.16287796772793506856193805639603.jpg16287797139066815525164657498685.jpg16287797533817902186376912798422.jpg1628779780881743276837754408016.jpg16287798305508597105288622887714.jpg
 
You need something so you push it with your body and not your arms as those others show. Fasten a 4 or 5" round rubber sanding pad on the handle. Another trick is if you have issues gripping things. drill and tap some 5/16 18 or 3/8 16 and make a handle from a 3" long cap screw wrapped with electrical tape. This make pushing it simpler. I would also clamp on the carbide as if you braze it on,, your limiting your scraper to only have 2 blades. If you clamp on the carbide insert you have 8.
Pic L to R. 1) Student made a hand scraper out of a Sandvik handle of right with clamped insert attached to plastic pipe with a rubber sanding pad 2) body pushing . Yellow rubber bad on his stomach 3-4) students with wood handles resting in their elbow crux of their arm.
 

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If your going to be scraping a dove-tail on the cross-slide and compound, you will need a thin blade. You could grind the top of a blade to resemble a wood chisel that has a thickness at the tip of approx 1/16".
 
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