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Harbor Freight 8x12

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DMLCV

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#1
I have a Harbor Freight 8x12 Model 44859 and looking for the headstock thread size, Can some one help me, I believe it is a M39/4mm . I am going to change the chuck head and need the thread size and pitch. I am new at this and getting confused.

Dan
 

T Bredehoft

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#2
If you stumble around the Harbor Freight add long enough you can find the download manual for the 8 by 12. It shows that the spindle, instead of being threaded on the end, has a flange on it with three holes, (probably) tapped into it for securing the chuck.

Does your chuck have three socket head cap screws in the face? I can't see any in the add illustration.
 

DMLCV

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#3
I did see that, I wanted to install an new chuck head with a 3.740 " bolt circle do you think I could drill that out or what other avenue do I have.?
 

T Bredehoft

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#4
It would be quite a bit of work to remove the spindle, drill & tap the new holes and rebuild it.
It might be easier to make an adapter, that you would mount on the spindle, then have the new bolt circle in it, and screw the new chuck to the adapter. You'd want to pay particular attention to concentrically of the adapter. I'd use flat head screws to mount the adapter, and socket heads in the chuck.
 

DMLCV

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Tom,
Thanks, I will think on that, As I said I am new at this and it is a learning curve. Should I look for a different spindle or is that out of the question.
 

Bi11Hudson

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#6
If I remember correctly, the spindle for your machine is tapered #3 Morse. If you took a #3 Morse taper driver and fitted a flange to it, you could have a dismountable chuck just for the tapping with a lead hammer.

What I did for mounting a UniMat 3" chuck to my Craftsman 12x36 was thread the exposed end M12x1 and filed a notch on both the spindle nose and the mandrel so I could align everything easily when I needed it. Rarely, but it does get used..... occasionally..... The Craftsman has a 1-1/2x8 spindle nose. The M39x4 spindle thread is for a slightly larger machine, a 9x19".

I had one of the HF machines set up with a four jaw a while back. It had a flange with mounting screws on the back. Mine was OK but didn't convert well to the UniMat DB-200 format that I was trying to duplicate. BTW, you may have to shorten the MT3 by about a third. I did need to shorten the MT3 that amount to get it to work on my HF machine.

A bit of work to get everything to work. But easier than taking out the spindle.
 

DMLCV

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#7
Bill, I am getting confused, but being new does that, do I need to change the spindle to handle a 6" chuck, yes I know it will not do the full six but it would give me some more room for odd pieces.
 

ch2co

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#8
The spindle is the shaft or tube that connects to the drive pulley or gear on one end then passes through the headstock to where the chuck is mounted. There are bearings in the headstock that support the spindle allowing it to turn freely.
 

Dave Paine

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#9
Spindles are typically specific to a lathe. I do not expect you will find a spindle with different face plate. Even the spindle as a spare part may not be available.

I agree with T Bredehoft, you will be better off making an adapter plate to mount to the present faceplate and attach to a replacement chuck.

A 6in chuck is heavy for this lathe.
 

royesses

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silence dogood

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#11
I have a lathemaster 8x14 (same lathe as the hf 8x12). When I bought my lathe it came with both 4" three jaw and a 5" four jaw chuck. The four jaw chuck also came with an adapter plate. So if you get a different chuck, get an adapter plate with it or make one. Also one more thing to do is replace the 3 allen head screws that hold the chuck with hex head. I believe the ones that I got are M8 x 20. Trust me on replacing the screws, it is one way to keep your language clean. It also came with a 8" face plate. It's a tough little lathe and I've run each of the two chucks or face plate at one time or another with no problems.
 

DMLCV

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#12
Thanks for the info, I will keep this in mind
 
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Robert LaLonde

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#13
An adapter plate is the way to go. You machine the back to exactly match the flange on the lathe. Then machine the front to exactly match the new chuck. Then mark the flange, adapter, and chuck so you always assemble them the way you machined it. I like to put a "0" mark on all my lathe spindle bits and pieces. It can be a pretty tight fit when you have 4 bolt holes on the new chuck to arrange it so you don't hit one of the 3 bolt holes for the lathe flange if they are close to the same circle diameter. By exactly I mean so close that you have to tap on the chuck or the adapter with a brass hammer to get it off.
 

DMLCV

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#14
Thanks Bob
 
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