Harbor freight bandsaw help

Any tips on how to get one of these saws to stop throwing the blade off? I don't really know where to start on tweaking/tuning this thing. I had it running pretty well I thought, but now it throws the blade off the pulleys constantly!
 
I have the 93762 and love it. I have put a lot of work into it. The newer saw has some extra safety guards or redesigned safety guards. Any changes cause a new part number at HF. As said by other posters aligning and adjusting the saw and using a high quality bi-metal blade are what makes the saw a winner. Depending on how long your local HF has been in business the newer model is likely to be the only one available. Either would be good with a 20% or 25% off coupon.
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Attached is what seems to be the bible of HF 4x6 blade tracking and adjustment tips from the Yahoo group. It is very helpful in getting the saw set up. I use Lenox blades on mine. HF has a good bi-metal blade also but it's $34.00 and I get the Lenox blades for about $22.00 on sale at MSC. If you need a coupon try the following link. It has all the latest coupons available for download:
Harbor Freight Tools Coupon Database - Free coupons, 25 percent off coupons, 20 percent off coupons, No Purchase Required coupons, toolbox coupons:
http://www.hfqpdb.com/

The coupons have always worked when printed out. If you get one and need help this forum is your friend.

Roy
 

Attachments

  • Blade Tracking and Adjustment for 4x6 Metal Cutting.pdf
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thank you gentleman I did read both manuals Didn't see a big flashing light that said here dummy this is the difference. I much rather get the word from those who know.Much higher reguard for your opinions and insights. My feelings is harbor freight is not bad equipment if you don't make a living with those tools and make corrections they overlooked or careless assembly.
 
Would like to find out the difference between HF bandsaw models 93762 and model 62377.
believe harbor freight is going to have 25% sale for easter weekend.

thanx in advance
Make sure you check the oil in the gear case. I took my cover off thinking I had sheared a key and found almost no oil and lots of brass shavings. I have cleaned it and refilled but I'm not sure how much longer it would have lasted.
 
Any tips on how to get one of these saws to stop throwing the blade off? I don't really know where to start on tweaking/tuning this thing. I had it running pretty well I thought, but now it throws the blade off the pulleys constantly!

There is an adjustment the tilts the drive wheel left and right from vertical. I believe this is called 'tracking'. There should be a bit of a crown to the tire on the wheels... this helps the blade center itself, I suspect if you tweek this adjustment you should be able to keep the band inpace
 
Another thing to look for if you open the gear box is to check to see if the worm gear has been
deburred. I read somewhere that they sometimes aren't and mine was very sharp. I was
concerned that it could cause excessive wear on the brass gear it mates with so I used a
square file to soften the sharp edges of the worm gear, then I changed the oil after wiping
out the filings and any swarf from manufacture.
 
where or how did you find that information ? I looked over the internet could not find anything as effiecient as that.
thought it might be that simple of an upgrade. thanx.

I bought mine around 1980. It needed the motor repaired once. Not replaced....just repaired. That's it ! So whichever model you can find. And get your $25.00 discount... BUY it. And buy GOOD BLADES !
The cheap blades are NOT. The least expensive !!!!!
Joe



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Do they still use brass worm gears? I thought they might be steel (or cast iron) now, for cost reasons.
MS
 
It isn't the worm gear that is brass in mine (bought this last fall) it is the gear that
meshes with the worm. So having a steel (or cast iron) worm with sharp edges
meshing with the softer brass gear was what concerned me. No idea if it actually
would have been a problem, but it made me feel better getting rid of the sharp edges.
 
Soft on hard. Think of the vinyl LP records of days gone by. A DIAMOND stylus rode on VINYL surface - and the diamond would eventually wear. Wonder if brass/steel is intentional - along those lines?
 
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