Harold Hall simple grinding rest

As with specifying plastic for the ball, I wonder if Harold had reason for CI for the end mill fixture bearings... maybe he felt CI would pick up less grinding dust than bronze/brass??? Or maybe CI just makes a better bearing when lubricant is not used??? Since Harold is retired I don't want to bother him and ask him directly...

Thoughts?
Ted
 
I asked the CI question a while ago, when I was in the middle of the jig build and the response I recall from the forum members, was that dissimilar metals are better in this sort of application and that there is something about CI that provides a sort of lubricating quality.

I figured that it takes me so long to make anything like this, that I might as well use the recommended materials, especially in this case, since it is epoxied to the steel. If I used something else and it didn't work well then I would end up having to remake a good portion of the jig. I guess that's not all bad though since it gives me more time in the shop.:)

Harold replied to one of my posts a few months ago (unsolicited) and I suspect he may not mind you sending him a PM.
 
Use to be a big compliment having someone copy a person's build . But when they start selling there's where the problem comes up . I've had another machinist copy items I made down to the three undercuts my little trademark my father taught me to do . Pop used them so his tools didn't walk away . I just incorporated into the tools I built. The unscrupulous so called machinist stole my design and sold I don't know how many. But he saw them at a dealer selling the ones I made and I guess bought one to copy.
Not much of man to steal from a guy in a wheelchair trying to live.
Nobody cares if your doing your own , but don't go advertising has the maker and selling .
 
Out of respect for Harold I wouldn't feel right giving out his drawings. The complete plans are in his book "Tool and Cutter Sharpening" and I think I got it on Amazon for a little over $10. Pretty cheap.

If I designed it myself I would be more than happy to share. I don't get an income from selling books. Actually, going through that conversion process helped me get a better handle on metric measurements, so working from his original drawings was a plus.

Sorry,
Ted
Which book do you have? This one from 2017 (updated by editor of HSM):
upload_2017-10-8_13-40-52.png

or this one from 2007 (original)?
upload_2017-10-8_13-41-25.png

EDIT: the first one is mentioned on Harold's website as being updated for the American market.
 
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For those that aren't familiar with Harold's web site, here it is.

In searching his website, he mentions his book is being updated for the US market. That's the one in the first photo above. Available from Amazon and others.
 
I bought the original. I wonder if the updated one already has the drawings converted to inch dimensions???

Ted
 
Update 10/11/2017: Had to take a break from this project. My B&S 2B horizontal mill motor started making a funny noise. Tore into it. A very old (1915 vintage) Westinghouse ARS repulsion single phase motor that my dad gave me with bronze bushing with oil rings. The output end bearing was so warn that the rotor was hitting the stator. Not good. So, I was reminded how nasty bronze can be to machine! Didn't take me long to remember I needed very sharp cutting tools. But, that's another story. Mill's back together running great. The motor will probably last another 100 years!!!

Got the new grinder the other day (seems very nice for the price) and started to make up a base for everything. Not knowing how high, big or where to place things since I haven't used it yet, I decided to make up a prototype setup to start with and once I get everything made and have used things I will make the final build. So, instead of using my nice birch plywood, I started with a scrap piece of 3/4" that used to be part of a counter top in my kitchen before I remodeled. Had a couple pieces of 1/8" steel plate 13-1/2" square and just laid them on top without fastening down. Just made a couple of hold down type clamps to secure the mag bases since I don't know how high and long I want things. They work fantastic! Raised the grinder up on a couple pieces of scrap and bolted the grinder down to the plywood with carriage bolts.

All I did with the grinder was swap the coarse and fine wheels. Didn't even dress the wheels. Found an old Chinese end mill I had with the corners totally destroyed, put some dye on it to help pick up the old grind (what was left) and took a good 1/16" inch off the end. Worked great! End mill cut like it was new. It will be even better with better wheels that are dressed!

So, now to draw up some accessories in Fusion 360 and get to work making them.

Thanks for reading,
Ted

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Looks like the rest works well!!

Appears I'm following in your footsteps, as I am now going to make a ball turner, so I can make a 1" ball, so I can make the same rest, so I can keep my tools sharp, so I can make more tools, to make or maintain tools.:)

Maybe someday I'll have a real project to make use of these things.
 
Looks like the rest works well!!

Appears I'm following in your footsteps, as I am now going to make a ball turner, so I can make a 1" ball, so I can make the same rest, so I can keep my tools sharp, so I can make more tools, to make or maintain tools.:)

Maybe someday I'll have a real project to make use of these things.

I'm thinking I'll start working my way into some type of model making. Not sure what yet, but I enjoy making functional assemblies. But, like you, there are still items for the shop on my wishlist. I also have a wood shop that I've been neglecting for some time and am thinking I'd like to make a nice wooden toolbox for my machine shop this winter! Metal is still my favorite. Got a lot of the wood working tools from my father. He made a lot of furniture, cabinets, clocks, too many things to list...

Ted
 
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