Harvey Butterfly Die Filer Rebuild

ndnchf

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I picked up this old die filer a while back and now have it torn down. It worked, but had a noticeable knock. I found the bronze bearing block hole is pretty worn from the crank pin. The crank pin measure .530", the bearing block hole measures .544" north/south and .540" east/west. So it looks like I need to either make a new bearing block sized .001" over the pin size or bore the block hole back to round, about .545" and make a new crank pin to .544". Have any of you guys tackled this job before? Looking for advice from someone who's done this before. These machines aren't too common any more, but most that are still around are pretty worn out. I'll try to get photos of the block and pin tonight. So I don't think I'm the first to encounter this problem. Thanks - Steve

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What a very coooooool project.
 
Steve, once you get it going, you’ll wonder how you got along without one! And I would rework the pin and bushing. Make it like new again!...Dave
 
Here are couple shots of the bearing block and crank pin. There is not a lot of meat left to bore the hole very much. But I'll bore it enough t get it round again and then decide how to proceed.



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Make a new block? With an original size hole? Then you could make the block bigger to fit in its slot better?
 
Fortunately, the block still fits the slot well. I decided to try the easiest and least expensive way first. If this doesn't work, I can make a new block and pin. First I bored the block until it the hole was round. It was worse than I thought. I bored it to .562". Then I made a sleeve for the pin to bring it up to .561". So now all the parts fit together nicely. The question now is - should I case harden the sleeve with Kasenite? It was made of a fairly mild steel, maybe 1018 or 1020. The sleeve has a .016" wall thickness, so I'm a little concerned with overheating it for the Kasenite or maybe warpage or making it too brittle. What do you guys think?

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I can't answer the "to harden or not to harden" question, but I just gotta say....those are nice, clear pictures.
It's like being right in your shop.
Thanks for that, I know it's not easy sometime, but it is appreciated.
-brino
 
I can't answer the "to harden or not to harden" question, but I just gotta say....those are nice, clear pictures.
It's like being right in your shop.
Thanks for that, I know it's not easy sometime, but it is appreciated.
-brino

Thanks brino. I just take them with my blackberry as I'm working. While Blackberries are dinosaurs to most smartphone users, it still works for me and has a decent camera.

After reading up on kasenit, I decided to do it, but just one application cycle. The directions suggest 3 cycles for a deep case. But with the sleeve wall only. 016" thick, I didn't want it hard all the way through for fear it would be too brittle and crack. So I did it once. Not sure how thick the case is, maybe a couple thou. But it's better than being unhardened.

I'm not a trained machinist, not even close - just a home tinkerer. I bored the sleeve about .001" larger than I wanted. So it's not the press fit I was looking for. More like a slip fit. So I'm using Permetex "Secures Gears" to lock the sleeve to the crank pin. It made just for this type of use. I've used it before with great results. Hopefully it will do the trick here.
 
Nice repair. Does it run in an oil bath? Mike

Yes it does. Sorry, I should have posted this photo sooner. Its kind of a total loss oil bath. The crank drives the block which runs the spindle (which holds the file) up and down. It runs in oil, but the spindle has no seal at the bottom, so oil seeps out. Not the best design, but an oil pan underneath catches the drippings.

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