Has anyone tried the modification to a parting off tool shown in WINKY'S youtube video

The part 2 version is VERY impressive.
 
I don t know if there is any magical tool for parting. Wether it s inserts or hss i think imop. It comes down to the tool geometry, and your speeds and feeds. It s one operation where you can t sway from what s proper maching or it will bite you but get into that area and have a nice shear cut that you can feel if hand feeding. It s a good thing to learn with the hss to understand what tool geometry is rather than buy what works. I think you will find you will always be going back to hss even when working with carbides and understanding how to make tools is a skill you ll need as projects progress.
Don t be shy with your tool. Get in under then back off your presssure once start cutting. Alot make the mistake to baby there entry. Leading edge, rake, hollow ground go find that shear cut!
 
There's definitely some magic involved to using t-blades (regular) parting tools that I can't learn. I've broken both ends of my parting tool, but my carbide parting tool from Shars has never failed me. That second side was broken just last week. I've been doing this long enough that I though I might have a handle on it. Nope!
 
The amount of movement of the tool holder in the video before adding the support was exceptional. I suspect that the rigidity of set up could/should be improved not just for parting but for any sort of cutting. For example, the compound slide could be backed away from the work as much as possible and the cross slide moved in an equal amount. This to get the cutting action as close as possible to the two bolts holding the compound to the cross slide and reduce overhang of the set up. The gibs on the compound should be locked tight. The carriage locked tight also.
Then the strut that supports the cut off tool would still be a plus but it would not have to cover up weaknesses elsewhere.
 
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I am very firmly convinced that rigidity of the system is the key.
I've removed the top slide and replaced it with a solid plinth.
That alone was like chalk and cheese.
I've just finished scraping in the saddle and cross slide and adding oil grooves plus more gib screws to remove as much backlash and other movement and again the improvement in parting is astounding.
I use a 1/16" "T" blade in an AXA holder and touch up the tip with a fine diamond hone before use.
Yesterday was my first parting job since the adjusting and parting some 19mm stainless and was effortless and some rolls of swarf were tight rolls about 10mm dia.
 
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