Headers for my MG Midget

mickri said:
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For those of you on the forum who don't know what a spridget is, it is the nickname for Austin Healy Sprites and MG Midgets. The cars are identical except for trim and the name. Hence the name spridget or spridgets
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I did not know they were the basically the same car...interesting!
 
The bug eye sprite came first around 1958. When the bug eye body style changed in the early 60's is when the midget was born. The midget was a little nicer trim wise compared to the sprite. I don't know when the sprite line was dropped. Might have been in 1972 when the body style was changed slightly.
 
My sister had a midget once... (I just realized how that sounds, but you know what I mean)

I thought that I'd be helpful and help her replace the clutch.. OMG, what a job, all done without an engine hoist under a tree as I recall. I also remember driving it and it had massive bumpsteer - quite amusing in a turn. But I also remember how it felt so light and responsive, and it certainly was. I can understand the appeal for sure.
 
I am one lousy welder. I think that I have all of the leaks plugged in the tubes. I have started to clean up my double ugly welds. Did another test fit and it looks like everything still fits. I will do more weld clean up in a couple of days before I weld the tubes to the collector and to the flange. Tomorrow is go to town day which pretty much shoots the whole day.

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I think that anyone who can fabricate that shouldn't call themselves lousy at any part of it. Needing practice perhaps or not quite ready to be a nuclear reactor welder maybe, but lousy definitely not :)
 
Cutting the tubes to shape and getting everything to fit the way I wanted it too came out way better than I expected. On the other hand my welding left a lot to be desired. My biggest problem with welding is that I just can't see what's happening. Blame it on old fart's eyes. I have a 3.50 cheater lens in the helmet and I wear my 2.00 reading glasses. Sometimes my 3.25 close up glasses. I basically have to stitch a bunch of tack welds together. Try to lay down even a short bead and I would blow through the .065 wall tubing. Luckily I had only 3, maybe 4, blow throughs. Those were fun to fix. I was using Lincoln 211 wire. The current spool is Blue Demon. Sometimes I get a really nice tack weld and other times all I get is splatter. I don't know why. So I am not embarrassed to say that I am a lousy welder because I am a lousy welder. I think the hardest welding is over. Butt joints are never easy. All the remaining welds are one tube slipped into another tube. Still have to be careful not to blow through. Should have it done over the weekend.
 
Here are some pictures of my latest attempts at welding. Have not done a leak test yet. The header fits nicely and I can get it in and out with no problems. One nice development is the exhaust flange is straight and flat again. It had warped a little when I welded the slip tubes to the flange.

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I have some big leaks. The worst are where the tubes go into the collector which also happens to be the hardest place to weld. See red arrows. I will give it another try tomorrow. I am considering plugging the leaks at the collector with JB Weld Extreme heat exhaust repair putty. Supposed to be good for over 2,000 degrees.

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Have you the equipment to use regular brazing rods? Likely make it easier to fill the holes in those tight places. I did so for mine.
Pierre
 
Well I have had no success in filling the leaks where the tubes come into the collector. I think that I have all of the other leaks fixed. I have 3 options at this point. Well 4 maybe. One that I don't think will work is I could fill the remaining leaks with silver solder. but it melts at 435*. The collector probably gets that hot. And the header will be heated to anywhere from 700* to 1400* to cure the ceramic coating on the header. Two I could take it to the muffler shop in town and have them plug the leaks. Probably the best option. Three I could try using JB Weld extreme heat. From what if I have seen on videos JB Weld extreme heat does not like stick to header tubes. I think that there is too much expansion in the tubes. The leaks are where the tubes slip into the collector. I would be pressing the JB Weld down into the gap between the exhaust tube and the collector tubes. So it may stick down in between the tubes. Four I could buy an oxy/ace rig and try to braze it my self. I have never done any brazing and o/a rigs are somewhat expensive. I am leaning towards the muffler shop. No rush on making a decision. The car won't be driveable until summer at the soonest.
 
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