Headstock Alignment On Colchester

I am certainly not experienced with that situation - but I agree it does not sound good.
 
Thanks Mal that does help me,I had to kinda pull off the alignment cause I had to make repairs to my Tee nut for the QCTP.Which I ask for some help and receive lots of ideals and people willing to make me a new one.
So maybe this weekend I will install the post and make couple trial cuts-----kroll
BeepBeep I have heard that bearings for these lathes are very expensive
 
Good afternoon guys,well I made some progress checking my headstock alignment.My first problem is my cheap calipers only go .001 so reading directions I need something that will read .0001 I proceeded anyway just for see how close I am.Another thing that I learned alittle was rpms.I started out at 350 rpm turn the OD then check but the finish was kinda rough.So I increase to the next setting which was 475 rpm made the cut but no cigar on the finish,check the OD and both ends are the same.Repeat,repeat,repeat then I got to 900 rpm which having a piece of steel stick out 8-10" was making me alittle nervous but the finish was alot better.And the OD was the same(3 digits .001) at both ends so I don't have much faith in me being lucky so I don't know what I did wrong.And if I may pass this additional info on to the newbies is don't wear a white tee shirt when turning HA.Guys here's a pic of the piece so please comment let me know what you see wrong so that I can learn and correct whats wrong.Getting excited----kroll--- Well guys I made another pass which made a good cleaner cut,so proud of my first piece for the first time on my lathe.But I also found that it turned a taper,the chuck end is about .004 larger than the end towards the tail stock.So I think I am going to kinda take things apart and make an adjustment.
DSC03201.JPG
 
Last edited:
Well guys today was a very good day finishing up on the alighnment.It took me several hrs today just to get it adjusted .004 to where it was the same at both ends.I would make a slight adjustment,but the lathe back together then turn the OD and check.Did that about 3 times then I over shot it had to start adjusting the other way RATS.You know just turning the adjustment screws very little made a difference of few thous.Guys I am going to call this part of the project a success,very happy with the results.But I did discover that I have alittle oil leak so I will need to try and fix that with some softer gasket material but that's another story.Thanks for following along----kroll
 
And the OD was the same(3 digits .001) at both ends so I don't have much faith in me being lucky so I don't know what I did wrong.

Kroll, looking at the pic of your chucked round bar makes me doubt your test results also. It looks to me that you have the bar held by only a small portion of the jaws. Why wouldn't you use the entire length of the jaws for a much stronger hold ? Between the short hold with the jaws on what looks like a good sized bar (what is the dia.?) plus the shims you used to protect it from the jaws, I think that combination makes for a weak grip on the bar, and the possibility that the bar could shift. HOWEVER, please keep in mind Kroll, that like you, I am a novice at all this also, but this post will bring your thread up to the front page so maybe one of the experienced members will see it and tell me I'm wrong. One other thing, I'm saying this based on your pic, and my old eyes. If you did in fact have the bar up tight against the face of the chuck, for full jaw grip, then forget everything I've said. Happy Thanksgiving, JR49
 
Thanks for your input JR,no need for any type of forgiveness that is what I am wanting to hear.You are right the bar is kinda proud of the base of these jaws which I am ordering another set of soft jaws.Reason for not being flush with the bottom the previous owner turned the inside of the jaws for two different sizes of OD's I guess,the bar here is 2.5 dia.The bar is on the bottom lip of the jaws,I also question if the bar was supported enough but I have to say it turned nicely.No shims were use,me not know how much to take off with each pass I just took .005 with each pass so not pushing my luck.JR thanks for your input.----kroll
 
From my Clausing / Colchester 8000 series manual
Headstock alignments . insert 2" diameter steel bar in chuck. Do not support.
2. Take roughing cut. take light finishing cut over the 6" length.
3. Micrometer readings taken both ends.
4. Lathe power off, idler gear, swing frame clamp nut off.
5.Slacken 4 headstock securing screws.
6. Adjust the set over pad to pivot headstock. Small adjustments only are necessary . On your test piece if point A is chuck side, and point B is tail stock side then. As a guide ,with a dial indicator set against point B of the test piece it will be necessary to swing the headstock approximately 2 1/2 times the difference in micrometer readings between point A and point B ( Take your readings at both ends of your test piece. Use point B for your adjustment gauge. )
7. Tighten the headstock securing screws swing frame, refit idler gear repeat and test cut . REPEAT AND REPEAT AND REPEAT.

Good Luck hope it helps
Frank
Trying the same thing on my nephew's 600 series and can turn straight but facing is out .012. Any suggestions?
 
It's good practice to check bed twist first to avoid interference in headstock alignment.
There the Rollie's dad's method to check headstock alignment. It is good because you can fix headstock vertically too.

 
There are several ways to do it. They all work. This is the way I have been doing it and teach my classes to do it.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top