Heavy 10 Collet Closer - Videos?

I don't have the pin, nor the place for the pin.

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By the way, this is an old cast iron bearing headstock, and it is not the original headstock for the bed.
 
Nice... I've searched many hours and have not seen these posted anywhere. Thanks

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Here's some pictures of the needed gear. The gear has the same dimensions as the gear that is on the spindle right now, except that it is 2.000" long (not a critical dim). In trade for these pics, I need a picture from you - I want you to take a picture of the insides of both the yoke segments (the two bronze pieces under the handle - loosen the set screws on the handle and they will just fall out).

Also, one more thing... The gears are made out of CAST IRON, so DO NOT try to pry them off with a screwdriver. ONLY use a gear puller to remove them. The TAKE UP NUT right before the gear on the spindle is ALSO CAST IRON! To remove the gear may involve REMOVING THE ENTIRE SPINDLE in order to get enough room to place a gear puller behind the gear. The gear is a loose press fit and MUST have the woodruff key in place. Hitting the location of the key from over an inch away can be daunting, so if you miss it, pull the gear again and try again. Do NOT try to spin the gear on the spindle to hit the key - this runs the risk of cracking the gear.


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Here are the pictures of the brass rings. I had a nearby cheap (and only 0.01" 'accuracy') caliper near by, so I threw that into the pictures to get a little idea on dimensions. If you want me to grab the micrometer and gather actual dimensions, I can do that.

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Again, thanks for all of the assistance here.
 
Just an update, those above instructions worked. I now have the collet closer pin ready.

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Yes, that is a live center stuffed into the drill press handle so I could keep the tap centered on the axis of the hole. It's the second time I've done it, forgetting both times that the center doesn't have a tang for removal from drill press spindles (had to use my ball joint separator forks to get it out again). I'm pretty excited to have this running. I still have to make the gear and do the oiler set screw for the bushing, but that's it. Woohoo!
 
Looks good.

It looks like you are using some grease on your gears and such. DON'T DO IT!

Here's why: Grease will forever hold any swarf that flies back there (and it will) and the swarf will get jammed into and possibly damage the gears. The proper oil, on the other hand, will NOT hold the swarf for long and it will eventually be thrown off.
 
Thanks for that. I'm still learning this stuff. I actually value the correction where an explanation is provided. I had chosen the grease because the rebuild is taking me so long and because it's sitting out in the elements (on a covered porch). I'll get it cleaned off and properly oiled (with the right oil, that being the ISO32 non-detergent stuff).
 
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