Heavy 10 Collet Closer - Videos?

Here's some pictures of the needed gear. The gear has the same dimensions as the gear that is on the spindle right now, except that it is 2.000" long (not a critical dim). In trade for these pics, I need a picture from you - I want you to take a picture of the insides of both the yoke segments (the two bronze pieces under the handle - loosen the set screws on the handle and they will just fall out).

Also, one more thing... The gears are made out of CAST IRON, so DO NOT try to pry them off with a screwdriver. ONLY use a gear puller to remove them. The TAKE UP NUT right before the gear on the spindle is ALSO CAST IRON! To remove the gear may involve REMOVING THE ENTIRE SPINDLE in order to get enough room to place a gear puller behind the gear. The gear is a loose press fit and MUST have the woodruff key in place. Hitting the location of the key from over an inch away can be daunting, so if you miss it, pull the gear again and try again. Do NOT try to spin the gear on the spindle to hit the key - this runs the risk of cracking the gear.


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SLK001, can I ask a favor? Do you have measurements for the gear? Inner diameter I can easily get, and I believe the over all length is 2". I'm wondering about the outside diameter of the flange. Is the long gear also cast iron?

silverhawk
 
Outside diameter is 2.060, but it's not critical, as nothing goes on top of it. The overall length of the gear is 2.00" and "yes" it is also cast iron. If you can make gears, cast iron is a good choice due to its wear characteristics.

I just noticed that the exploded parts list above shows the long gear BACKWARDS in the assy. The gear portion should be in the same place as the current gear.
 
Perfect! Thanks! I'd like to do a cast iron. I have the 16Dp gear cutters, and I have a small mill and rotary table. My brain was able to turn the gear around so that it would engage the reversing tumbler. I think it's a matter of boring the gear, turning the outside, then cutting it. I have a small SB 9" junior and an adapter plate on the small rotary that I can shift the work between without having to remove anything from the chuck. I think it's doable, I just have to sit down and do it. Much appreciated, SLK001!
 
I finally had the chance to cut my first gear. It turned out the spindle gear on the heavy 10 is an 18 diametral pitch gear. The change gears for threading are 16 diametral pitch, so I had to buy a cutter. But, I managed to cut the gear blank. I added a boss to be able to add a brake/spindle lock/possible indexing plate (I probably won't do indexing on it, but you never know).

Anyway, setup was a bear. I should use a self-centering chuck on the indexing head, but I only had a 4 jaw independent. I finally got it centered, then I got the axis centered for the mill and proceeded to cut :

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Because Harbor Freight mini mills don't have room, I had to move everything to the drill press (and change the direction the chuck was holding the gear to get the boss to the topside). Again, setup was the pain. Once done, three holes that I can tap.

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I'm pretty stoked! I only need to cut the keyway now.
 
Having the "boss" means that you won't be able to put on your gear cover top (that's bad). If you want to use an indexing wheel, you could make an expanding sleeve that sides into the spindle bore and locks in place with a bolt. I made one a long time ago that worked just fine. Here's a spindle crank that I made that could easily be modified.

You should make two extra of those gears and put them up on ebay. The gear you made is usually as rare as hen's teeth. Just price them at half the cost of your CI blank (or $60, which ever is greater).
 
Having the "boss" means that you won't be able to put on your gear cover top (that's bad). If you want to use an indexing wheel, you could make an expanding sleeve that sides into the spindle bore and locks in place with a bolt. I made one a long time ago that worked just fine. Here's a spindle crank that I made that could easily be modified.

You should make two extra of those gears and put them up on ebay. The gear you made is usually as rare as hen's teeth. Just price them at half the cost of your CI blank (or $60, which ever is greater).
That is true. Thanks for the reminder. Do you recommend not having the attachment installed if not using the collets?

joe
 
The attachment (extended gear) is very difficult to get on (and off), so once it is on, leave it on. If you are using the collet closer, it is part of the apparatus. If you're NOT using the closer, the extended gear doesn't get in the way. With the gear on, you will still have the full dimension of the spindle bore at your disposal.
 
I just realized I cut the dumb thing with the wrong cutter. I used the 16dp cutter instead of the 18dp. I realized it when the teeth didn't write look right so I pulled it up. I had the wrong one. I don't know if I can clock it in and recut, i might just scrap out and start over.

joe
 
That's a real deflater. Do you have enough material to try again?
 
I do. I want to reduce the setup time, so I am waiting on a new chuck and back plate for the indexing head. It is an old indexer, so the only plate I can find is larger than it can handle. That means I will have to trim it closer to the final diameter, then add it to the indexer and true it up using these mill. Once I have it set in, I can install the chuck, slap another blank in, and cut away. I am not as worried that I will mess it up yet again, twice already. Third times the charm.

joe
 
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