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woodtickgreg

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southbend-lathe-1-001.jpg southbend-lathe-1-002.jpg southbend-lathe-1-003.jpg southbend-lathe-1-004.jpg southbend-lathe-1-005.jpg southbend-lathe-1-006.jpg southbend-lathe-1-007.jpg southbend-lathe-1-010.jpg southbend-lathe-1-011.jpg southbend-lathe-1-013.jpg This is my first post other than an introduction. I have been searching for a used lathe to use for my tool making and who knows what else. I was hoping to find a nice workable logan and was looking for a few months. I work as a truck driver for a roll forming co. in the detroit area, one day on one of my deliveries to a shop that I go to all the time I was told to go upstairs to talk with the owner. Now this is a very old building in the heart of detroit, when I was up there I saw this old lathe tucked away in a corner surrounded by a ton of old machinery and other junk. So I asked, do you want to sell that lathe? He said I dunno, it's not mine, I have been storing it for a friend that lives out of state but i'll call him and see. A week later he said I called him and he will sell it, it was his fathers and he passed away and has no use for it, how much I said? He wants at least $500 for it. Can I look at it closer? I didn,t even know what brand it was as I couldn't get close to it, sure he said. As I aproached it I saw the large spindle bore, climbed around to the front of the lathe and saw it was a south bend! Oh happy day! Ways not damaged and in good shape, tail stock is there and functions smoothly, missing belt cover and bull gear cover is broken, handle for back gear eccentric is broken, But other than that it's all there and in good shape! original 3/4 hp 3 phase motor too. everything moves except the back gear and I think I can free it up. $500?.....I'll take it! Do you guys think this was a good deal? I will post pics as I go along with the refurb on this. Another question that I have is it looks like it has a collet chuck? Can I just remove the collet chuck and mount a 3 and 4 jaw chuck to this spindle or do I have to change the spindle shaft?
 
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bcall2043

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...........Can I just remove the collet chuck and mount a 3 and 4 jaw chuck to this spindle or do I have to change the spindle shaft?
Greg,

Welcome to the group. The answer to your collet question is yes. The grooved collar with spanner wrench holes on the spindle should unscrew and push the collet adapter out of the spindle. Once the adapter and collar are removed the threaded spindle can accept a threaded face plate or chuck assembly of the correct thread size.

Great find and good price.

Benny
 

Splat

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It's funny how things happen, don't it? Nice find, Greg, and welcome to the fold! No other tooling, chuck, etc. came with it? Even still, if it's in good shape and just needs a cleanup ya did good.
 

woodtickgreg

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It's funny how things happen, don't it? Nice find, Greg, and welcome to the fold! No other tooling, chuck, etc. came with it? Even still, if it's in good shape and just needs a cleanup ya did good.
Thanks, nope no tooling and believe me I looked around for anything I could find. I do plan to go through this machine and buy the rebuild manual and kit off of feebay. I think I may change out the motor to a 220 single phase rather than run a converter but not sure what horse power to run. But I will save the original motor if I ever want to put it back in. I still have to figure out what the spindle thread and size is. And I do want to get the serial card from grizzly. And I also plan to repaint it, seems like it is just primed or a flat paint now. Gonna be lots of elbow grease on this one, but I love these kinds of projects. Take something old and make it new again. Nothing like old american iron.
 

Benji

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Your lathe was shipped, Midyear, 1949. One of the last with the cast iron base.
You have large dials on both the cross feed and the compound.
Check the cross feed dial. It may have 200 divisions. If so you have one of the latest dials.
I have a 42, came with small dials. but with a set of collets by 1/32's. I paid $800.
 

woodtickgreg

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Your lathe was shipped, Midyear, 1949. One of the last with the cast iron base.
You have large dials on both the cross feed and the compound.
Check the cross feed dial. It may have 200 divisions. If so you have one of the latest dials.
I have a 42, came with small dials. but with a set of collets by 1/32's. I paid $800.
Wow, Thanks for the info! How did you find out all of this stuff? Is there a source for this info? Any way to determine what the spindle size and pitch is? Sounds like I have a good find. The more I learn about this lathe the more I think I need to do a full restore on it. I was going to just make it a user but now I think I will restore it. But the time it's going to take to do it is a bummer and I need to use it, Oh well it will be worth it. It is still in my truck, I am going to clear a space to work on it in my basement shop and a friend is going to help me get it out of the truck and in the basement. I will pull the underdrive unit and motor out of the base to lighten it a little. I really do appreciate your info on my lathe benji !
 

woodtickgreg

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I started taking the base apart for inspection and painting, cleaned up and blew out the motor, it spins freely and has no play. The good thing is that the base and the lathe as well has onlt 2 coats of paint, the original and some one sprayed the whole thing with grey primer. Chemical stripper should work fine. I don't want to sanblast the base so sand doesn't get in the bearings of the underdrive shaft, it spins freely and doesn't make any noise or have any play, so I won't have to mess with it much, just clean up the pullys. The door and the 2 side covers, the chip pan, and the end legs I will probably sandblast. A quick inspection of the ways shows no wear at all and no nicks or dings! I cant believe the condition of the ways, a little oil and a fine buffing pad and they will clean right up. I do not think this lathe has seen much use at all. Oh and a quick look at the hand wheel dials shows 100 divisions.
 

Splat

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Get the refurb kit and proper oils on Ebay. The refurb kit and the oil pack are both good buys. I bought the kit and the oil pack and have been steadily refurbing my 1957 Heavy 10. The refurb kit has all the felt wicks you'll need, good instructions and pics, and the oil pack is contains the oils recommended for your lathe. I wouldn't run that lathe until at least knowing the condition of the wicks, especially the wicks under the spindle.

From your lathe's serial # it is a large-bore spindle, 2-1/4x8. It looks like you've got a collet adapter in your spindle which, IIRC, will take up to a 1" 5C collet. You would remove the collet closing sleeve and the nose cap/protector to put a chuck on the spindle. I would suggest getting a 4-jaw chuck for your first chuck. The 4-jaw is more adaptable to different shaped workpieces and allows you to dial in parts better than a 3-jaw.

For more info on your lathe, and various other South Bend info, visit Steve's site http://www.wswells.com/ and also the Heavy 10and Heavy 10 files Yahoo groups.
 
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hardhatdiver

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woodtickgreg,

Just a note if you haven't done so already. When you remove the collet adapter, use a long piece of aluminum rod (or other soft metal, but aluminum is cheap) from the rear of the spindle. Don't use a piece of steel. Hold the adapter with your hand and knock it from the back. A few smacks should pop it out, and the thread protector just spins off. They can get fairly tight after being used a lot and staying in the spindle. I've been using the same aluminum rods for years on my 10L and 16" and just keep them with the lathes.

Regards,
Jeremy​
 

woodtickgreg

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Thanks for the info guys! I do plan on doing a restoration sort of, mostly I am going to get the rebuild kit and manual and replace all the wicks, Inspect all the parts as I go and replace as neccessary. The problem I have with the paint that's on it is some idiot just sprayed the whole thing down with what looks like primer, overspray on everything, some parts are rusty and I want to clean everything well. The bed and headstock I will probably hand sand a little to even things out, wipe down with denatured alcohol, and brush on some paint. The ways look amazing! Drip pan, base, and legs I will probably spray. The bearings in the jackshaft assy in the base are in great shape, removed the belt and motor and gave em a spin and it spins a long time on it's own and makes no noise, no end play or up and down play either.
Etard, yep the bed is a little short for some, but it will fit well in my basement wood shop/work shop, the tag on the end of the machine says 3 1/2 foot bed.
Splat, Thanks for the tips, I do plan to get the proper oils, did you get your oil pack from the same guy that sells the rebuild kit and manual? I did find steve's site. The collet closer popped right off when I removed the coller, self releasing, measured the spindle and it is 2 1/4. I do plan on getting a 4 jaw scroll chuck first as my main use of this lathe will be for 1/2 square 304 stainless steel stock for the wood turning chisels I make for wood turners. And that is also why the large bore and short bed work for me. I really don't think this lathe saw much use, or it was cared for very well untill it was warehoused and forgot about.
 

hardhatdiver

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The collet closer popped right off when I removed the coller, self releasing, ...
There's that too! I've just never bothered to buy a spanner for my lathes, but that's the better way to do it. Guess I figured yours didn't come with one either. Probably should invest the $20 from Graingers one of these days and use the aluminum for something else. Can't wait to see how your lathe cleans up.

Regards,
Jeremy
 

woodtickgreg

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Splat, I ordered the rebuild kit with manual and the oil pack also, I might get them by friday or early next week. I guess I better get busy stripping and prepping for paint!
 

Splat

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Splat, Thanks for the tips, I do plan to get the proper oils, did you get your oil pack from the same guy that sells the rebuild kit and manual?
I got the oils from Bluechipmachineshop on Ebay. Click on the link I provided in my previous post and it'll take you right to the auction for the oil pack.

wood turners. And that is also why the large bore and short bed work for me. I really don't think this lathe saw much use, or it was cared for very well untill it was warehoused and forgot about.
Don't worry so much about the "short bed", as some guys might call a 3.5' bed. That large bore will help out significantly, unless you do big diameter pieces.
 

woodtickgreg

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etard, I will probably get both a 3 and 4 jaw chuck, 4 jaw first as I need to turn square stock to round. I'm thinking 6" will probably be just fine.
 

woodtickgreg

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Well a friend came over today and helped me get the lathe out of the truck and into my basement, set it up on saw horses and started to tinker with it a little. I pulled all the covers off for an inspection and got everything to turn freely by hand, gearbox works, back gear works, and bull gear engages and disengages freely, all a good sign. I ordered the rebuild kit and manual off of feebay, the 4 oils in a kit, and I am in the negotiation stage with a seller for a belt cover and back gear eccentric and lever assy, as mine is broken off, it works but the lever is broken off. I still need to find a small bull gear cover as that is broken also. The pedestal for the switch mount was broken and I had it tig welded for free from one of the weld shops I deliver to for my work. I have 5 parts loaded into my car for taking to a media blaster. The pedestal I will chemicaly strip as I do not want to get sand and grit into the bearings, I don't want to take it apart if I don't have to. If I give the pully and shaft assy in the pedestal a spin by hand it spins for a long time and makes no noise and has no play, If it aint broke don't fix it. So I am making progress and having a blast doing this, very exciting! The ways show absolutely no wear at all! This lathe must not have seen any commercial use. The ways will probable clean up with a buffing pad and some oil, amazing what I did to them with just my finger. Maybe I'll try some flits or something like it.
 

woodtickgreg

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So today I took some parts to the media blaster, door for base pedestal and both covers for the same, legs, on/off switch mouunt, and drip pan. All were blasted with aluminum oxide, I dropped them off and 4 hrs later they called and they were done, I will pick up tomorrow and get some pics to show how they came out before I prime them. Deals were made on ebay for some parts and I might see them next week.
So as I have been tinkering with this thing and waiting for the rebuild kit and manual to come and as I have been cleaning and inspecting a thought came to mind.
If I remove the headstock to refinish and paint the bed will I have any problems with realigning the headstock. I wouldn't think so as there only appears to be 2 bolts and the v ways would hold it in alignment when it's reinstalled. Is this correct???
 

Rick_B

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On mine - the headstock had two bed clamps (front and back) and a dowel pin in the bed that the hedstock sat on for alignment.

Rick
 

woodtickgreg

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On mine - the headstock had two bed clamps (front and back) and a dowel pin in the bed that the hedstock sat on for alignment.

Rick
Thanks for the reply Rick! I kinda thought from looking at it that it would hold it's alignment when reinstalled. It will be much easier to strip and prep the bed for paint without the headstock in the way.
I picked up the parts from the media blaster today and they look great! I'll try to get some picks this weekend. I got the oil pack of ebay today and the felt rebuild kit and manual, Looks like I have some reading to do! The step pully belt cover and back gear lever should be in next week. Making progress and moving along, albeit slowly.
 

Splat

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I was worried about headstock alignment and didn't want to pull it off. After more reading I decided I did pull the headstock. Mine too, sits in the V's and has the alignment pin in the way bed. There is not movement whatsoever after I put the headstock back onto the bed. :phew: You should be ok.
 

woodtickgreg

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DSCF0232.jpg DSCF0233.jpg DSCF0234.jpg I found a media blaster near me that did some stuff for me, I had 6 pieces blasted with aluminum oxide and they came out great! The chip pan has a few extra holes in it that I am going to weld up and grind smooth before painting. The previous owner drilled and mounted some crummy looking fixtures that I am not going to put back on. I circled the holes to be filled in with weld.
 
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woodtickgreg

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DSCF0235.jpg DSCF0236.jpg DSCF0237.jpg DSCF0238.jpg This is what some of the other pieces look like after the same blast treatment, raw metal and not primed yet. You can see some of the porosity of the cast metal, I am not going to fill it, I am refurbing this lathe to be a user, not a museum piece. the primer and paint will fill it good enough. It was good enough 60 years ago! LOL
 
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woodtickgreg

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DSCF0243.jpg DSCF0242.jpg DSCF0244.jpg DSCF0253.jpg DSCF0254.jpg DSCF0255.jpg DSCF0256.jpg Here's a few picks with 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of paint. Paint and primer is rustoleum professional in a rattle can. I have used this paint with good success on other machinery refurbs. Not to glossy and builds well, dries quickly, and in the top left pic you can see how the primer filled the porosity. Looks even better after 2 coats of paint.
 
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woodtickgreg

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DSCF0239.jpg DSCF0240.jpg DSCF0241.jpg DSCF0246.jpg DSCF0247.jpg DSCF0248.jpg DSCF0250.jpg DSCF0251.jpg DSCF0252.jpg I chemicaly stripped the pedestal base for 2 reasons, to damn heavy to move around and transport, and I did not want to get grit from the media blaster in the bearings. The bearings are in great shape! I did have to apply the stripper twice, First application removed most of the paint and the primer that the previous owner sprayed all over the machine. The second coat more or less softened the factory paint and I just scraped it off with a sharp putty knife. As you can see the stripper did not remove the red oxide factory primer, that's just as well as there is really no need to remove it. I then wiped it down with a scotchbrite pad and mineral spirits, that's what you see in the bottom pics. I will sand it with a random orbit sander with 100 grit and maybe 150 before priming and painting, I don't want to sand it to good or it wont match the other pieces. LOL
 
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ScrapMetal

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Looks great so far. I'll definitely be watching this one come together.

Thanks,

-Ron
 

Splat

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Here's a few picks with 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of paint. Paint and primer is rustoleum professional in a rattle can. I have used this paint with good success on other machinery refurbs. Not to glossy and builds well, dries quickly, and in the top left pic you can see how the primer filled the porosity. Looks even better after 2 coats of paint.
That's a machinist's clothesline right there. :D
 

woodtickgreg

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final-base-painting-001.jpg final-base-painting-002.jpg So I got the chip pan back from the weld shop, I had the holes that the previous owner drilled in it tig welded up. finish ground with a angle die grinder with 50 and 80 grit. wiped it down with denatured alcohol.
 
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woodtickgreg

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final-base-painting-003.jpg final-base-painting-007.jpg final-base-painting-008.jpg final-base-painting-012.jpg Once I had everything wiped down I gave it the same treatment as the other parts, 2 coats primer and 2 coats of paint.
 
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woodtickgreg

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final-base-painting-004.jpg final-base-painting-005.jpg final-base-painting-006.jpg final-base-painting-009.jpg final-base-painting-011.jpg final-base-painting-010.jpg At the same time I sanded the pedestal base with a random orbit sander with 150 grit and wiped it down with alcohol also. Like the other parts 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of paint.
 
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woodtickgreg

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final-base-painting-013.jpg I let all the parts cook in the sun for a couple of hours and then moved them into my garage/kiln, gets really hot in there during the day. as you can see I also dry hardwood lumber in there. I'll let this stuff cure for about a week before I move it into the basement for assembly. Next job is to strip and prep the bed for the same treatment.
 
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