When the garage is closed up it gets anywhere from 100 to 120 in there in the summer, Think how hot it gets in a closed up car.When I did Nelsons SB DP head I put a 100W light bulb (incandencent, not CFl) that got it nice and hot.
I would think a couple of them in the bell would help.
Steve, I did end up finding another headstock with the spindle, cone pully, and bull gear. I paid $90 for it. I have not had the chance to tear it down yet but I don't think I will have the surprise I had in the first one. I don't know if it would have ran with those goofy bearings but I just couldn't see the capilary oil wicks working with them as there was a groove cut in the center of them, I just want to keep it as close to original as I can. And as far as cast iron being hard? I agree with that too! I am really having fun with this project, and it should come out nice and be a great user. I just gotta get a couple of friends over to help me assemble what I have done so far, Only got one arm as of yet. I wanted to get a couple of parts painted today but it stormed, maybe tomorrow. So far I think I have about $800 into it total, with the rebuild book and kit, and several parts that were missing or damaged. I'm gonna estimate $1000 or less for the whole project by the time its done. I think I'll get a couple of small items yet just to spiff it up, and more paint! After I get the bed, base, drip pan, and legs assembled it's on to the gearbox, everything in the gear box works, just replacing all the wicks and giving it a good cleaning and paint.Lookin good! You seem to be savvy to SB's and their quirks. Glad you figured out the taper pins, those can be hell to remove if you put them in wrong (ask me how I know)! There's plenty of info out there on refurbing/restoring, especially for the heavy 10's. BradJacob over at PM did a real nice restore on his lathe....definitely an inspiration. I guess I missed the part where you needed a new headstock....was it because of the modified bearings? If you got a reasonable price on the second headstock, that might come in real handy down the road as you get some wear and tear. All in all you came out with a hell of a bargain, the name South Bend seems to add $1k to the price tag, even if it is a clapped out machine. The scraping on your compound is great. SB and other makers from that era were known to make changes quite frequently so it can be difficult to know whether something was done at the factory or by a PO. One thing I never knew is that "flame hardened ways" weren't done until sometime after the 60's....and they are ground, not scraped. But, that's not to say that scraping was done on everything prior.....some lathes were scraped, and some were not...kind of erratic for such a large company, but I guess it was according to what options the customer requested. I had a 1919 SB 14" lathe that actually had cast iron ways, not scraped or hardened, but they were hell for stout and I could barely make a mark on them when cleaning up with a scotch brite.
The ways and everything else were either covered in gray primer or a coating of oil and crud. To remove the paint I scraped them with a new razor blade first then wiped them down with acetone. final clean up was with some 600 grit sand paper, didn't take much and they cleaned right up. They showed almost no wear, no grooves. No sign that the ways were ever scraped, not even under the headstock. Some people may not agree with using sand paper on the ways, but I assure you it was very light just to remove very light surface rust and gunk mostly. The razor blade and acetone removed 90% of the gunk. There was little if any metal removal in the clean up.Those ways look great....what did you use?
I look at it like this, how many people find a piece of machinery of this age with absolutely pristine ways? I would venture to say very few. Almost any machine of this age is going to need some clean up of the ways, no matter what you clean it with to remove any rust, and their will be some, you are going to have to use an abrasive something. even brass brushes or copper pads will remove some metal with the rust and grunge. My ways although needing a good cleaning are very sharp edged and angular, no wear grooves where the saddle rides. Look at the pics when I started this thread, I took a close up pic of the ways and they were not bad. I belive that cleaning them the way I did was the way (excuse the pun) to go. Lets say your lathe was very rusty, would you give up on it? I wouldn't, I would do the best I could, maybe as far as having everything reground or scrapped. I am sure there are lathes out there in far worse condition than mine being used in shops daily for production work. Sometimes I think people put to much into having a perfect machine. I have even consulted with a machinery rebuilder on this very same topic, the old south bends will hold a tolerance even with some significant wear, which mine does not have. Even though I intend to use this lathe, like all my tools, I want it to look good. I don't like using crummy dirty tools. Anybody that thinks that a 60+ year old lathe isn't going to have some wear of the ways is kidding themselves. jmoGood to know. Yeah, some people would cringe at that...copper chore boys and brass brushes are good too, but i guess for that " one time" cleanup a very fine grit sandpaper is okay, as long as you clean the grit off very well. Otherwise its like lapping compound once mixed with oil. Still, it looks nice...and probably pretty darn accurate for hobby work, I dont care what anyone says.
I never said my shop was clean! LOL I just don't like crummy tools. I am a wood worker also, when I get involved in a project the shop gets trashed and not cleaned until the project is done. It's like that with the lathe restore right now and several other projects going on at the same time. The only thing I do during a project is an occasional sweep. I should be better at the cleaning thing, I guess I would rather work than clean.I hear ya. I can't stand a messy workplace....disorganization gets in the way of efficient progress. Obviously, when you're using a tool, you're gonna make a mess. But, once chips or sawdust or whatever piles up, you take a quick break and clear the debris. At the end of the job, wipe down your lathe, table saw, or whatever tool you're using.
I do the same thing in the kitchen....it's called cleaning as you go, and it really reduces cleanup at the end....like to zero.
I've gotten into the habit of cleaning up at the end of each day I do something in the garage...even if the project is still in progress. When I come back to it, I can think clearly because I don't have a pile of tools and debris to contend with. Plus, I just like to look at a clean and well cared for machine. It's like a car; somehow it just drives better when it's clean