Heavy10 Under drive adjusting bolt

[StepSide 88]

So I find myself searching for the odd ball bolt once again.
Have tried all the links for SB parts and suppliers over at PM but they're all obsolete links apparently.

My search is for the adjusting bolt for the under drive unit. On the form 919E sec2 page (4-5-65)
Its shown as #25 - pt# PT2569RT1
Its a 3/4" ball on the end of a 3" (?) long 1/2" bolt.
Suggestions greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Silverbullet]

Could you post a picture or drawing . I'm sure we can help just we all don't own south bend lathes. Could be an easy make or use a different item even.

 

[StepSide 88]

here it is and one of it in place.
Thanks

 

[Silverbullet]

Is it a full ball inside? I'd center it drill out the broken end into the ball or even through if there's nothing done in the tubing part . Then I'd tap the ball use some good grade eight or five bolt with long enough threads to reach the length of the old adjuster. If you mount it with red loctite in the ball should work ok. If no loctite you could pin it in the ball. No.reason to buy a part that can be made to work. Of course you can make the complete ball bolt .

 

[StepSide 88]

Maybe 'I could' in a year or so... But even with two lathes running one that will cut threads has a broken counter wheel gear so it makes threads a pain. The second doesn't do threads and... the third is what I'm trying to save.

But I was thinking I 'could' do as you suggested and drill and tap a proper size ball bearing so I'll take your suggestion as the likely work around and head that direction.

I confess to breaking it whilst beating on the handle trying to get a movement on it.
It took multiple cycles of kroil heat and the BFG over several days but (now that I broke something) it all moves smooth as silk.

I'd also trashed the thumb plunger bushing removing it from the gear box handle.
That I was able to replace (made 2 actually) from a grade 8 bolt I drilled and reamed for the 3/8 id. the used my points file to cut the slots on top.
thanks again.

 

[Dave Paine]

I would first check that you can get the ball end out of the fitting. Looking at my Heavy 10, I think an eye bolt may work in lieu of this two piece design. May have to mill down the face of the eye to provide enough side-to-side movement.

 

[Charles Spencer]

I confess to breaking it whilst beating on the handle trying to get a movement on it.

As I once heard the chaplain say, "Bless the Lord for an honest answer".

 

[Silverbullet]

What I meant is use the old ball drill it and tap .with a long enough thread from a good bolt then cut the head end off bolt , no threading involved , just taping.
With a ball bearing some are hardened , plain ones can be bought but you have one there why buy unless you have too. But it's up to you , like DP said an eye bolt thinned may work. But may snap being thin , try it and see. It looks like the ball allows the mount to move when changing speeds or belt position.

 

[StepSide 88]

Im going to try my hand at free handing one tomorrow. I grabbed an over size bolt and nut and red lock tite, planning on using the existing one for reference. If I get the spheroid close then I'll take the bolt down to size and run a die over it.
It was interesting taking it apart. The body is really just a piston with a dished pocket to hold grease pinned to keep it in the cylinder, the adjusting bolt pivoting as the lever moves . Simple and basic.

 

[Rick Berk]

I would not want to make it from a grade 8 bolt, start with a piece of 12L14, turn down and thread and make the 1/2 ball, using both hands on the wheel you can get very close. then cut a sheet metal template to the correct ball size and 1/4 the area, blue the ball and hold the sheet metal template up to it and it will scrape the high spots, use a good file to dial it in, remove and rechuck the thread end, part to length and start the process over and it will outlast your needs.