Help fitting new cross slide gib on Grizzly 12x36

Mutt

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Hey y'all. the cross slide on this lathe is pretty cheap cast iron. This is the third one now i have replaced in 20 years. They sent the cross slide and a gib. The gib was too long (on purpose I suppose), but me not thinking things over before cutting the gib, I cut the short end off. Well, that was a bad idea, because when I installed it. I found out I should have cut the large end off, cause it sure didn't fit.

So can I get some info here, on how I should fit this new gib the right way? The second gib I ordered took 4 months to get here from China.................. I don't need that to happen again.

Thanks for y'all's help

Mutt
 
I'm guessing that you would have to reduce the thickness of the gib by whatever means, so that it goes in to near the proper depth and then scrape it to fit, then cut off the large end if necessary, and possibly the small end as well if the ends project too far.
 
Mutt: before you start cutting could you post some pics of the parts and the lathe itself? Closeups are best- 4 months is a long time to wait for a part, some pictures will get you better responses
Also, do you have a milling machine? If so you can make gib strips yourself
Mark
 
Yep, I have a 9x42 Bridgeport and loots of tooling for it, but looking at this part, I'm not sure I'm experienced enough to make this part, but I might have to be open for the challenge with having to wait 4 months. Why cheap pig iron? Why not just carbon steel?

I took these right before I made the post but forgot to post them. That lathe is a Grizzly G4003 I bought new in 1999.

Underside of new cross slide and gib
DSC00526.JPG
large end
DSC00528.JPG
 
I have a similar issue with my King 12x36. I have the new gib I cut the thick end. Now the issue is thickness. I have to shave about .035 the total length of the gibe. Since the gib is tapered I had a difficult time shimming the gibe level without increasing defections while milling. I'm going to put it on the belt Sander and whittle it down. Hopefully that should work.
 
how much of the big end did ya cut off? Can ya post some pics as ya belt sand it in relation to how it fits the gib slot as ya go, little byb little
 
Use a mag chuck on mill to cut tapered gibb. Then surface grind it followed by scraping. First I would blue it and check the fit.
 
"Why cheap pig iron?" The operating word here is "cheap". Obviously they do intend you to hand-fit it by cutting one or both ends, then filing or sanding the thickness to fit.
Have you considered making a brass gib? They slide very nicely and brass is fairly easy to machine. Mild steel would also be ok. If you break the cast iron one again that is.
Agree with Cadillac: use Dykem or High spot blue to check the fit as you go. Maybe make a jig out of aluminum with setscrews to hold it on your mill to machine it? (if you don't have a mag chuck)
Mark
 
So I remove my tool post, compound slide and the old cross slide and gib. What next?
 
Clean all mating surfaces, put compound on saddle center on saddle. Blue the gib and inert carefully to not scrap bluing. Tap lightly on gib. LIGHTLY to seat. Pull and check fitment. Once you have contact to full surface on both sides I would mark your extreme ends. Heavy of course check twice. Then check again! Then cut it. Did I mention check before u cut? Then you can bore end and put the slice in it for screws. All with careful measuring. Twice! Leave the small end to cut till last and put the slice a touch back so you get more travel out of gib.
This should all be down after a bluing of each compound surface and dovetails to be able to evaluate the condition of compound matting surfaces. At least that’s what I would do.
 
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