Help identify Abrecht keyless chuck

[aleaddict]

I purchased this chuck with an R8-JT6 arbor about 20 years ago. It has a chuck capacity of 1/32-1/2in (1-13mm) stamped into the shell along the the Albrecht badging and country of origin (Germany). I completely disassembled it and would like to replace the arbor. Albrecht table shows three models in the Classic series (assuming that is what this is) with 1/32-1/2in capacity: 130-J2, 130-J6 & 130-J33. The JT6 never seemed to maintain concentricity with long drill bits. There are no other unique identifiers I could find. Any reasonably knowledgeable machinist care to speculate which arbor fits this keyless chuck? Pics below:



I could also use a recommendation on drill chuck removal wedge set for removing the arbor without resorting to the open-end wrench method.

 

[mmcmdl]

Albrechts come with a number of different arbors . Why not just re-buy the original arbor that was on it if it's bad ?

If I'm understanding you , I guess you are referring to drift keys for chuck removal from machine ? Or removing the chuck from the arbor itself ?

FWIW . Although Albrechts are arguably the best out there , Its a drill chuck and none will have perfect concentricity .

 

[mikey]

I purchased this chuck with an R8-JT6 arbor about 20 years ago. It has a chuck capacity of 1/32-1/2in (1-13mm) stamped into the shell along the the Albrecht badging and country of origin (Germany). I completely disassembled it and would like to replace the arbor. Albrecht table shows three models in the Classic series (assuming that is what this is) with 1/32-1/2in capacity: 130-J2, 130-J6 & 130-J33. The JT6 never seemed to maintain concentricity with long drill bits. There are no other unique identifiers I could find. Any reasonably knowledgeable machinist care to speculate which arbor fits this keyless chuck?
I could also use a recommendation on drill chuck removal wedge set for removing the arbor without resorting to the open-end wrench method.

First of all, welcome to HM.

Not being all too knowledgeable about much and not really being a machinist, I would however like to speculate that a decent arbor from Albrecht or Jacobs (made in England) or Rohm would probably work well provided it is installed correctly. Assuming the female taper in the chuck is good, it is not the arbor taper that is usually the cause of excessive run out because they are precision ground to a standard, at least by reputable makers. Rather, it is usually the care with which the arbor is installed that makes the difference. Furthermore, the lack of concentricity of a drill bit has more to do with the drill than the chuck, at least in my experience. An Albrecht chuck in good condition should hold less than 0.02mm TIR, which is fair for a drill chuck, but it is measured with a precision pin.

Now, Albrecht arbors can be quite accurate when used in an accurate spindle. My personal drill press had under 0.0005" TIR at the arbor (an Albrecht arbor) after I replaced the spindle and drive sleeve bearings with precision bearings so I know their arbors are quite accurate. Drills held in my Albrecht chuck look like static pins when running but I do not bother measuring the run out at the drill because this has little meaning due to stacking tolerances, regardless of drill size. If you must have good concentricity with a drill then you need to use quality drills and hold them in a collet or heat shrink them into a tool holder.

Insofar as wedge sets, Jacobs makes some or you can make your own. Albrecht also makes chuck removal tools to ease removing a chuck from the arbor. You can also cut off the bulk of the arbor and use a puller to pull it out of the rear of the chuck body. You can also try to use a pin inserted into the body from the front and a hydraulic press to push it out; if you do this, slip a thin-walled tube in there to protect the spindle threads before applying force.

So, buy a good arbor and install it correctly. You have a good chuck and it deserves it.

 

[Braeden P]

I have the same one on my drill press the old iron did not age well 30 thou of run out but the chuck can hold on so tight i need a strap wrench to get the bit out

 

[aleaddict]

Thanks for all the replies fellas. I should have mentioned that I use this chuck primarily in my B'port mill but I also have a Rockwell 11x36" metal lathe so I'd like to be able to swap arbors. Albrecht sells a very expensive chuck removal tool but I was hoping to spend my money on a precision arbor and save a little on the removal tool. The wedges seem like a pretty effective and reasonably priced solution.

As far as the arbor goes, I found a table with all the JT dims so before purchasing I want to confirm that this is indeed a JT6 and not a #2 or #33. This is the first time I've taken apart my chuck (bought used) so I'm going through everything with a jaundice eye, including the arbor. The races and ball bearings were packed in dark grease... w-a-y more than I would have expected. I'm going to use a light coating of white lithium grease on reassembly unless someone here has a better suggestion.

Also, if there is a right and wrong way to installing an arbor please enlighten me. I was just going to use a rubber mallet to drive the arbor home. To be honest, I didn't give that operation much thought but this is just a hobby and I'm here to learn as much as I can.

 

[mikey]

All Albrecht chucks with replaceable arbors should have the taper designation stamped on the tail of the chuck body. Look in back of the body where the arbor goes into the chuck. There is usually the taper size stamped there.

I wrote an article on servicing an Albrecht chuck here.

I am attaching a thing on installing the arbor below.

 

[mmcmdl]

It would be easier to purchase another chuck for the lathe than swapping out arbors when needed IMO . I generally don't use Albrechts on the lathes . Maybe rare instances .

 

[aleaddict]

@mikey thanks for that little pearl of wisdom!

Also, very much appreciate the link to the article you published. Great information!!

 

[mikey]

You're welcome.

I suggest a good synthetic grease for your chuck, like Super-Lube. It will not harden and cake over time and will keep your chuck running smooth as silk for decades.

I agree with @mmcmdl. I would definitely have separate chucks for the mill and lathe.

 

[mmcmdl]

I agree with @mmcmdl. I would definitely have separate chucks for the mill and lathe.

For some reason , I never use a good expensive Albrecht chuck in a tailstock . Prefer a good Jacobs SBB chuck that I can wrench down with the key . Might just be an old tradition , cuz we're all getting older !