Help me pick test indicator and holder

JoeC

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Hi,

I'm kind of new to machining and need to acquire a test indicator and holder for my Grizzly G0775 mill and Baleigh 13x40 lathe. At this time I can buy one good indicator and holder. I am thinking Tesatast/Bestest and Noga. In addition, I could also afford a cheapo with less resolution if that makes any sense.
In addition to general not extremely precise machining, I will be threading a few gun barrels.

Test indicators:
What would be the most useful test indicator as far as resolution/range/stem? I think in inches, not metric.
I am thinking .001 or .0005.
What stem length is most useful for general work?
Can I get a short stem model and change to a long stem when I want to get up in a barrel? I know the reading would be off.
Or is changing stems a bad idea for a nice indicator?

Holders:
Noga's come in NF, DG, MG, MA sizes for their articulated holders.
Their post holders are much more affordable, and have more reach. Ph3100, 2040, 4016.
I have no idea what is a practical size.

What is your advice?

Thanks,
Joe
 
Joe, I'm with you re Swiss dti's. However, you have to be careful nowadays because some of the indicators that have long been made in Switzerland are now being made in China, including some Bestest indicators. Hexagon has apparently succumbed to the world economy and is outsourcing. If the dial says "Swiss Made" then it is made in Switzerland. If it does not, then it isn't.

I tend to favor Compac indicators. One of the best is the Compact 214GA, a long travel dti with a large, easy to read dial that is calibrated in 0.0005" units. For a general purpose dti, this is the one I prefer. Here is one on ebay now and it is brand new at a decent price: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Compac...180975?hash=item5203aff32f:g:eh8AAOSwFnxaUaZ2

Other options include the Interapid 312 series, most older Tesas and B&S. Mitutoyo makes some nice ones but are not as smooth as a Swiss indicator in my experience. I have a Interapid 312b 15V with a long arm and it is smooth as silk. Changing arms will alter the direct reading and for most uses, a short arm is better.

For stands, Noga flex arm stands are probably the current world leader and they are very good. I suggest you consider one with the fine adjust at the base of the arms, not at the indicator end. The base adjuster (FAB) models are easier to adjust for really fine movement.

I own an NF model, a MG model and several NF1018's (these mount in a spindle; they have no magnetic base). All are useful. If I had to pick one, I would probably go with the MG; it is stout but very smooth. The DG has slightly smaller diameter arms than the MG. The NF has the smallest diameter arms and is lighter; I actually use it the most. I'm sure the other guys will be along shortly to give their opinions.

I have not used a Ph model holder but it is likely going to be more solid than the flex arm models, albeit a bit slower in use.
 
Laugh as much as you want but, the mag base indicator holder from Harbor Freight has never let me down. It too has a fine adjustment. https://www.harborfreight.com/multipositional-magnetic-base-with-fine-adjustment-5645.html

For general purpose work, two indicators are most useful to have. One would be a 1" travel indicator and the other would be the half-thou test indicator.

The 1" travel indicator (often also called a drop indicator) sees more use in my shop than any other kind of indicator (and I have quite a a few). Again, the Harbor Freight indicator is what I use because, they are very reliable and inexpensive. https://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-63521.html

For indicators, Shars.com sells very adequate indicators in both half-thou and tenths for about $40 each. I have about a half dozen in different shapes and probe lengths. Some of them are almost 10 years old now. I've tested them on granite with gage blocks, pin gages etc and they perform very well.

A half-thou indicator is likely to be more useful to you than a tenths indicator.

Ray
 
I've got 3 or 4 Last Word Starrett's in 0.0001" (0.008" travel) and 0.0005" (0.030" travel), Mitutoyo 0.0005" (0.030" travel), Import no-name 0.0005" (0.030" travel), SPI and Fowler's 0.0005" (0.030" travel) and three Interapid 0.0005" (0.060" travel). The Mitutoyo is on an Indicol spindle bracket for centering up on the mill. The Starrett's set in the tool boxes unused, SPI/Fowler's pretty much the same thing. The Interapid's get the most use, like the 0.060" travel for 4-jaw truing up on the lathe. Plus they're smooth.

I have a couple of Noga FAB base that gets a lot of use, also a Starrett mag base. But as Ray mentioned above, got a lot of use out of HF quality mag base and DTI before upgrading. I'm a hobbyist, not a production guy. If you're on a budget, maybe start with the import stuff and upgrade at some point.

Bruce
 
I second the Noga bases. The knock offs on eBay are not bad either.
R
 
I've got 3 or 4 Last Word Starrett's in 0.0001" (0.008" travel) and 0.0005" (0.030" travel), Mitutoyo 0.0005" (0.030" travel), Import no-name 0.0005" (0.030" travel), SPI and Fowler's 0.0005" (0.030" travel) and three Interapid 0.0005" (0.060" travel). The Mitutoyo is on an Indicol spindle bracket for centering up on the mill. The Starrett's set in the tool boxes unused, SPI/Fowler's pretty much the same thing. The Interapid's get the most use, like the 0.060" travel for 4-jaw truing up on the lathe. Plus they're smooth.

I have a couple of Noga FAB base that gets a lot of use, also a Starrett mag base. But as Ray mentioned above, got a lot of use out of HF quality mag base and DTI before upgrading. I'm a hobbyist, not a production guy. If you're on a budget, maybe start with the import stuff and upgrade at some point.

Bruce

I'm with Bruce on this one. Sure, I have some Mity's, BS and Starrett equipment. Some of it belonged to my father and uncle who were a tool/die maker and metallurgist (respectively). Because of sentimental reasons, I don't use that equipment as much as the day-to-day stuff. Also, some of those items are pretty old and showing their age. For what I do, the lower-cost equipment serves me just fine and in my "semi-professional" opinion, it functions just as well. I try to be very careful with all my equipment but sooner or later, mishaps will occur. For example, the only test indicator I ever broke was damaged when I tried to rotate it at 1000 RPM. -Happens when you hit the "On" button instead of the "Jog" button...

Anyhow, JoeC eluded to a cost constraint so, I pointed-out what equipment works for me. If anyone here follows me, you know by now that (even though my shop is crowded and messy) I keep everything inside of a thou and all my bearing fittings are within 2-3 tenths.


Ray
 
Joe . I have some very nice indicators that I will be letting go . I'll give you a list of what I have if you want .
 
Can I get a short stem model and change to a long stem when I want to get up in a barrel?

There is rifling in there so unless you're talking about indicating in a chamber that would not be of much use.
 
Joe, I'm with you re Swiss dti's. However, you have to be careful nowadays because some of the indicators that have long been made in Switzerland are now being made in China, including some Bestest indicators. Hexagon has apparently succumbed to the world economy and is outsourcing. If the dial says "Swiss Made" then it is made in Switzerland. If it does not, then it isn't.

I tend to favor Compac indicators. One of the best is the Compact 214GA, a long travel dti with a large, easy to read dial that is calibrated in 0.0005" units. For a general purpose dti, this is the one I prefer. Here is one on ebay now and it is brand new at a decent price: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Compac...180975?hash=item5203aff32f:g:eh8AAOSwFnxaUaZ2

Other options include the Interapid 312 series, most older Tesas and B&S. Mitutoyo makes some nice ones but are not as smooth as a Swiss indicator in my experience. I have a Interapid 312b 15V with a long arm and it is smooth as silk. Changing arms will alter the direct reading and for most uses, a short arm is better.

For stands, Noga flex arm stands are probably the current world leader and they are very good. I suggest you consider one with the fine adjust at the base of the arms, not at the indicator end. The base adjuster (FAB) models are easier to adjust for really fine movement.

I own an NF model, a MG model and several NF1018's (these mount in a spindle; they have no magnetic base). All are useful. If I had to pick one, I would probably go with the MG; it is stout but very smooth. The DG has slightly smaller diameter arms than the MG. The NF has the smallest diameter arms and is lighter; I actually use it the most. I'm sure the other guys will be along shortly to give their opinions.

I have not used a Ph model holder but it is likely going to be more solid than the flex arm models, albeit a bit slower in use.

Thanks for the heads up on some Bestest not being from Switzerland anymore.
I almost pulled the trigger on the line to the Compac until I noticed the screw in the face plate looked corroded. What would you make of that?
 
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