HELP PLEASE wiring motor and drum

Farmernic

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So I’ve spent 2 full days and 4 fuses trying to figure this out. I’ve got a Dayton single phase, 115 or 220 volt, 30PT40 motor. I also have a Dayton 3 pole (6 pin?) drum switch (it’s the configuration as shown in the picture below) It’s being used to operate a bi-fold door, so the switch is used to bring it up or down. The issue I am having is that the diagram on the motor does not tell me where to connect my wires from the switch. I found a drawing someone made online, however there is no black wire coming out of the motor for me to connect up like the drawing says. Here’s the diagrams and drawing:
8D4FE087-1C55-49A3-BCDC-DC3C94952663.jpeg82526979-EF76-4099-AF26-76F03DE735DB.jpeg6A08CDAC-3E00-4D0D-8F30-49CEFE457634.jpeg
I have had it hooked up a couple different ways now, but it seems to be shorting out and blowing my fuse because the one power going into pin 1 is directly connected underneath to pin 2, one of my neutrals, but there’s no other pins to connect them to! I am at a loss here, any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Just a looking at what you have here did you check with a meter to make sure the Motor is any good and not grounding out in the windings ? I’m no electric motor expert but I work I. The HVAC trade and run across bad motors a lot and it’s because the windings are bad or shore to ground
 
Just a looking at what you have here did you check with a meter to make sure the Motor is any good and not grounding out in the windings ? I’m no electric motor expert but I work I. The HVAC trade and run across bad motors a lot and it’s because the windings are bad or shore to ground
I should have mentioned that it’s a new motor, and I was able to get it to run briefly before I tried to reverse it and it blew the fuse. I began rewiring it and have not made any progress.
 
Hmmm. Your wiring scheme in the third diagram just swaps the start winding, which is not what they're telling you to do to reverse it. L1 and L2 should be in the central row on the drum, blue and orange to one of the top row pins, white and yellow to bottom row. Start windings to remaining pins. I think. What the Drayton diagram you found is telling you is anybody's guess, it seems impossible to decipher!

Have you played with the connections inside the motor terminal box? A pic of that would be most helpful.
 
i made this video for a Square D drum switch, your motor and switch should wire up very similar

 
Hmmm. Your wiring scheme in the third diagram just swaps the start winding, which is not what they're telling you to do to reverse it. L1 and L2 should be in the central row on the drum, blue and orange to one of the top row pins, white and yellow to bottom row. Start windings to remaining pins. I think. What the Drayton diagram you found is telling you is anybody's guess, it seems impossible to decipher!

Have you played with the connections inside the motor terminal box? A pic of that would be most helpful.
Yeah I’ve tried a few combinations here. I’ll post the pics of how it is right now. The confusion is coming from the fact that there is no black wire coming out of the motor that I would usually connect to one of my drum pins, directly across from the red wire. Additionally, the red wire is connected to one lonely pin on the motor, leading me to believe it’s not supposed to have another wire hooked directly up to it. I made a “custom” connection to see if hooking up the wire from the drum to the red would do anything, but it just shorted. I’m guessing the wire that connects pin 2 and 1 caused that, because I have a neutral going to pin 1. The pictures are a mess, but here they are!F09F9B6B-1FFE-4CAF-B7D0-E2463CCDE680.jpegC146CA51-9998-4AA6-A41A-93318BFAB4A8.jpeg
 
Also, the motor is new and instead of labeling the wires by T(number) and L(number) they’re just all different colors. If there is a industry standard way to figure out how the two methods correspond, that would make a lot of resources more useful.
 
Unfortunately there is no industry standard and the wire colors and numbers can be all over the place.
Let me peruse your documentation and see if I can do a sketch for you
-Mark
Ok I see what they are doing- good that you have the motor internal diagram. Looks like the best way to do it is to reverse the motor run windings rather than trying to reverse the start leg. Begin by pulling off the red, white and yellow. Join the white and yellow. Extend the red and white/yellow to reach the drum switch. Remaining connections coming up shortly.
Try this: (Terminals 2 and 3 not used, blue and orange remain on terminal 1)
Dayton3040.jpeg
 
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Unfortunately there is no industry standard and the wire colors and numbers can be all over the place.
Let me peruse your documentation and see if I can do a sketch for you
-Mark
Ok I see what they are doing- good that you have the motor internal diagram. Looks like the best way to do it is to reverse the motor run windings rather than trying to reverse the start leg. Begin by pulling off the red, white and yellow. Join the white and yellow. Extend the red and white/yellow to reach the drum switch. Remaining connections coming up shortly.
Try this: (Terminals 2 and 3 not used, blue and orange remain on terminal 1)
View attachment 326522
Holy cow thank you so much! I’m gonna have to try that here, and I’ll let you know how it goes. Also just so I know I’m not an idiot, I have the green ground wire from my power cord connected to a wire nut in my drum switch junction box that also connects the green wires from the 2 cords that go up to the motor, and also a wire that connects to the metal chassis of the drum switch/junction box. Does that sound correct?
 
Yes your ground connections sound fine, I didn't show any since I knew you weren't an idiot :)
 
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