Help understanding what tool / speed to use?

[vimes1984]

Hello all!
first of thank you so much for taking the time to read this, I am a complete newby to machining.

I've just purchased a second hand mini lathe:
"conquest super lathe" 7X14'' ,

for very cheap it comes with this set of carbine tools:

tungsten-carbide-lathe-tool-set-8mm-536001

This secondary chuck: axminster clubman sk100 woodturning chuck
ax915228





--------
and this arbor: mt2-arbor-m33-x-3-5



Now to the crux of the matter the arbor needs to be turned to remove the wider part of the arbor just above the visible black thread. I need to remove quite a bit of the arbor to allow the arbor to nestle into the back of the chuck so the thread grips it into the chuck so I can then fit it to the lathe.

I have absolutly no idea if this can be done on the small conquest, or I need to send this peice off, or if I need to send the chuck of for a custom arbor to be made or if I can buy a arbor...

I really need some guidance, I'd love to use the arbor that the job lot is coming with but again:
I have no clue if this can be done on this lathe?
If it can what tool to use HSS/ Carbine/ Tugsten ?
Kind regards
Chris

 

[Eddyde]

Those look like stock photos can you send some ones of the actual machine, arbor and the of the back of the chuck? The carbide tools should be able to turn it down but it might be case hardened, see how easily you can scratch it with a file.

 

[brino]

Hello @vimes1984,

First, welcome to the Hobby-Machinist!

Congratulations on the new tools, that is always exciting.

To be able to give you better guidance, I would like to know more about your lathe and chuck.
Notice the lathe in your first picture uses a "back-plate" to mount the chuck to the lathe spindle.
Like this:

That is usually done when the lathe has a threaded spindle nose.
The chuck is bolted to the back-plate.

Does your lathe have a threaded spindle nose?

I am concerned that you are suggesting to mount the arbour in the spindle morse taper, and then the chuck to that arbour.
It worries me because if that morse taper came loose (due to forces, chatter, etc.) then the arbour and chuck could come of the lathe spindle at speed and really ruin your day!

I would suggest that you only use that arbour with a "draw bar".
A draw bar is essentially a threaded rod or tube that goes all the way thru the hollow lathe spindle to hold the arbour into the morse taper.
One end would thread into the small end of the arbour and it have a large washer and nut on the other end.
Does that arbour have a threaded hole in the small end?

Is there a reason to use a "woodworking" chuck on a metal working lathe? I would think they would be made to very different "grip force" specifications. Also, I believe that chuck needs to have another set of jaws screwed on to the existing jaws moveable jaws.

Was the chuck and arbour sold as accessories for this particular lathe, or were they bought separately?

I want to make sure that you are safe, so you can enjoy this new hobby for a long time!

-brino

 

[Bi11Hudson]

It's a little difficult to grasp what you're attempting. I'm an old man and sometimes I'm thinking about one thing and writing about another. My apologies if I'm writing something out in left field here.

I see a Morse Taper mounting stud you want to modify. It is a MT-2 and a smooth fit for the tailstock. The headstock on your machine is MT-3. If you remove the chuck, there is room to do all sorts of things. But to use the head end with the existing stud, you will need a MT-3 to MT-2 adapter sleeve and a drawbar through the hollow spindle to a nut outside. Likely 3/8" or 10 mm, depending on who or where it's from. The adaptor sleeve will be held in by the stud.

Look at the back of the chuck, there will be a thin (1/4" or so) flange. The chuck is bolted on through this. Likely three bolts, maybe four. Using a prick punch, 60 deg, make a witness mark on the flange and the chuck so it can be put back where it started. Unbolt and set aside the chuck. It may take a tap with a piece of wood to take it out. Slide in the adaptor and the mounting stud. Then set the drawbolt in place and spin on the wood working chuck.

The next question is whether the MT-2 mounting stud is a part of the chuck. The way I read the post, they are two seperate pieces. Are you sure they are the same thread?

If you are attempting woodwork on the metal working lathe, removal of a few parts is the first step. Then adding a tool rest. Then will the chuck ears clear the bottom of the machine? Only then, can you consider the woodworking.

An alternative plan would be to use your existing metal working chuck. If that would be possible. Locking out the feedscrew and using the high speed range would put you in the area. If starting with square stock, round off the first inch or so with a sander. Just be sure to run out the tailstock center.

I suppose a more detailed explanation would need a little more detail to what the desired end result is.

Bill Hudson​

 

[brino]

UPDATE: I found this Grizzly 9x14 that looks very similar to yours....
http://www.grizzly.com/products/7-X-14-Variable-Speed-Benchtop-Lathe/G0765

Page 24 of the PDF manual on that same page it shows it does NOT have a threaded spindle nose.


Does yours look like that?
If so, then my earlier comments about using a removeable back-plate were wrong......sorry!
You have the equivalent of a permanently mounted plate; "intrinsic plate" shown above.

In that case, can you simple bolt your chuck to that plate?

-brino

 

[vimes1984]

Hey all!
Thank you so much for the responses
@brino :
This is the arbor and it has a threaded drawbar on the smaller end ,

The reason to use the "woodworking" chuck is that I will be turning briar pipe bowls, the lathe I bought comes with a large set of semi finished bowls.
The chuck and the arbour where bought separately to the lathe.

@Eddyde :

I don't have the lathe here at the house yet it's on it's way and should arrive in a couple of weeks I am currently just preemptively trying to figure out if I need to order anything else. I have a limited number of photos, I'm sorry.
I have spoken to my friend who is sending this to me and he says he tried filing this and to no avail it seems to be hardened some how, you can see the scratches just beneath the lettering "RC Machines" that was his attempt to turn this...

@Bi11Hudson :
" MT-3 to MT-2 adapter sleeve" do you know where I can get one ?


@brino : apparantly it's not capabale to be screwed directly onto the back plate.


The whole point of this is so I can turn pipe bowls AND pipe stems, hence the woodworking chuck and the metal lathe


Thanks again guys!!!
I hope I've answered all your questions.

Chris

 

[vimes1984]

@Bi11Hudson : update!!! I've just spoken to my mate and he assures me the thread is correct and fits it's just the that the piece you can see with the writing on its to wide to nest inside the chuck and allow me to fasten.
More photos



As you can see the flange should go inside the back of the chuck BUT it's to wide

 

[brino]

The reason to use the "woodworking" chuck is that I will be turning briar pipe bowls

Well that makes sense!

apparantly it's not capabale to be screwed directly onto the back plate.

Right, I see that that now.
Both your latest pictures and the info here: https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-clubman-sk100-woodturning-chuck-ax915228
show that the chuck does not have a flat "bolt-on" back....it needs a male threaded shaft to screw onto.

It really looks to me like that arbour/adaptor is two pieces:

I would bet that the black part and the shiny parts do separate. I wonder if that would give any clues.
Also, turning down the outside might not be a good idea, it might compromise the strength, depending on how much you need to remove.

The Axminster site has a puzzling (at least to me) array of various adaptors:
https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-spindle-thread-adaptor-709947
https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-wood-screw-chuck-75mm-m33-x-3-5mm-ref-t38-910475
https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-chuck-hub-t04m-702218
https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-chuck-hub-t38-702217

but I did NOT see a document how how the recommend that you fit a chuck to a lathe........

-brino

 

[vimes1984]

If I'm understanding this right the black bit will seperate from the shiny bit? that'll mean I can then get an adapator?
I might just wait until this arrives and try and figure it out further from there.
It would need to be turned down so it actually fits inside the back of the chuck, as you can see in image number 3 when they are screwed toghether the flange sits flush with the back of the chuck where it should sit inside the chuck and be fastened using screws....

 

[vimes1984]

OK guys!
It's all arrived
@brino you are completely correct my backplate looks exactly like that grizzly.
The Clubman chuck from Axminster will NOT screw directly onto it, the clubman wants to be screwed onto an M33 threaded spindle it's a woodworking chuck.

The arbor does not come apart from what I can see it's one big piece...

I've been reading up and the only two ways I can think of mounting it are:
1) using a M33 draw bar ( but I can't seem to find one to buy online...
2) Using a backplate with a M33 male thread in the middle kind of like this: https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-chuck-hub-ax780266 but with a flange on the bottom big enough to bolt directly onto the spindle.

I can't seem to find either online to purchase, does anyone know how to find someone locally ( or in the same country!) that may be able to make one?
How much would it cost?

Kind regards and thanks
Chris