We had to break the internal centrifugal switch away from the connection to the main winding. Bringing the yellow wire out was the easiest way to do it, since the switch was mechanically connected to the #4 post behind the panel.
When you had it connected before and it was overheating, it was because the internal switch was shorted out and the start winding was continuously energized. Normally, the winding should disconnect when the motor is up to speed.
On many motors, the red and black wires contain the whole start "leg" - which is the start winding, the cent. switch, and the start capacitor (if equipped)
On yours, the red and black are the start winding only- big difference. So when you brought them out to the drum switch suddenly the internal centrifugal switch is not part of the circuit anymore. Result? The motor runs but overheats. Dayton motors, later ones particularly, are not designed to be remotely reversed- at least not easily.
-M
