Help with drum switch

[Dsjm2005]

I need some advise on what is going on with my motor and drum switch. I have a 1/2 hp split phase reversing motor that I have wired to a Furnas drum switch on my little SB 9c. I have it wired as in the diagram and it will run forward and reverse as it is supposed to. However when it runs for a little bit the motor smells like it is getting hot and the case of the motor gets hot. I can disconnect the motor from the drum switch and connect power directly to the motor and it seems to run fine without getting hot. This obviously tells me something is going on with my wiring.

The motor has two spade terminals and indicates to reverse the direction of the motor to just switch the two spade terminals. I have attached a diagram of how I currently have it wired. I am trying to wire it as per the diagram in the upper right hand corner schematic. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

[markba633csi]

It sounds as if the start winding is not being cut out as it should be when the motor is up to speed- the motor's internal centrifugal switch is being shorted out when you wire in the drum switch. That would explain the overheating.
Can you post more info on the motor itself? A close up would be helpful, of the data plate or label
Also, do you have a multimeter of some kind? We might need to do a couple simple tests
-Mark

 

[Dsjm2005]

Thanks for offering to help Mark. I do have a multimeter I can grab this evening. Here is the pic of the nameplate on the motor. Not sure why it places it upside down.

 

[markba633csi]

In order to correct this issue, and use the switch you have, we will need to get inside the motor. Daytons are sometimes more difficult to reverse because they often don't bring all the necessary wires out, or the internal connections need to be defeated.
We need to determine which two terminals the internal centrifugal switch is connected to. It will be either between 1 and 2 or between 4 and 5.
The start winding is the red and black leads. We want to disconnect the end of the centrifugal switch that is currently connected to either 1 or 4 and bring a wire out from that end of the switch. It may require cutting a copper strap or other such mechanical mod- you won't know till you get a look behind the terminal board.
-Mark
The other option, if you didn't want to open up the motor, would be to use a different switch. The model that's used to reverse 3-phase motors ("chopstick style") would work without any modification to the motor, using a slightly different hookup. See below

 

[Dsjm2005]

Ok. I will take the motor apart and post a pic of what it looks like behind the terminal board.

In order to correct this issue, and use the switch you have, we will need to get inside the motor. Daytons are sometimes more difficult to reverse because they often don't bring all the necessary wires out, or the internal connections need to be defeated.
We need to determine which two terminals the internal centrifugal switch is connected to. It will be either between 1 and 2 or between 4 and 5.
The start winding is the red and black leads. We want to disconnect the end of the centrifugal switch that is currently connected to either 1 or 4 and bring a wire out from that end of the switch. It may require cutting a copper strap or other such mechanical mod- you won't know till you get a look behind the terminal board.
-Mark
The other option, if you didn't want to open up the motor, would be to use a different switch. The model that's used to reverse 3-phase motors ("chopstick style") would work without any modification to the motor, using a slightly different hookup. See below

 

[Dsjm2005]

In order to correct this issue, and use the switch you have, we will need to get inside the motor. Daytons are sometimes more difficult to reverse because they often don't bring all the necessary wires out, or the internal connections need to be defeated.
We need to determine which two terminals the internal centrifugal switch is connected to. It will be either between 1 and 2 or between 4 and 5.
The start winding is the red and black leads. We want to disconnect the end of the centrifugal switch that is currently connected to either 1 or 4 and bring a wire out from that end of the switch. It may require cutting a copper strap or other such mechanical mod- you won't know till you get a look behind the terminal board.
-Mark
The other option, if you didn't want to open up the motor, would be to use a different switch. The model that's used to reverse 3-phase motors ("chopstick style") would work without any modification to the motor, using a slightly different hookup. See below

Here is the inside of the motor.

 

[markba633csi]

OK, I need a better view of the back of the board please, a bit closer
I'm afraid to say those windings look a bit toasted- not a good sign
-M

 

[Dsjm2005]

OK, I need a better view of the back of the board please, a bit closer
I'm afraid to say those windings look a bit toasted- not a good sign
-M

Here is the back of the board. The motor was on the old lathe when I got it. Maybe the windings being "toasted" is part of the problem. Perhaps it may be a good time to look for another motor???

 

[markba633csi]

Thanks, that's a good picture. The motor may have some life left in it still, but when the windings get dark like that it usually means the life of the motor may be shortened somewhat. Ironically, the internal thermal protector didn't do much protectin', the case temp wasn't high enough to trip it.
Anyhow, if you pull off the yellow wire and bring it out, then put the motor back together, this should get you going again without overheating:
Swap drum switch wires 3 and 4 if necessary to match motor direction with switch handle

 

[Dsjm2005]

Thanks, that's a good picture. The motor may have some life left in it still, but when the windings get dark like that it usually means the life of the motor may be shortened somewhat. Ironically, the internal thermal protector didn't do much protectin', the case temp wasn't high enough to trip it.
Anyhow, if you pull off the yellow wire and bring it out, then put the motor back together, this should get you going again without overheating:
Swap drum switch wires 3 and 4 if necessary to match motor direction with switch handle

I will give that a try. Thanks so much for being willing to help me with this.