• PHISHING SCAM attempt TARGETING HOBBY-MACHINIST members. It has been brought to our attention that a pop-up survey is soliciting userfeedback from H-M members. In exchange for survey information, the user is given an opportunity to win a prize if they pay for shipping charges. This is NOT a Hobby Machinist program, survey or contest. DO NOT click through the links. Close your browser immediately and restart your computer. Clear cookies, cache and log back into Hobby Machinist. Again, this is NOT a Hobby Machinist contest or survey - IT IS a PHISHING SCAM attempt to get your credit card information.To close this notification, click the "X" in the top right corner of this box.

Help with Enco 110-2035

rodm717

Registered
Registered
Joined
Sep 1, 2017
Messages
46
I recently bought this lathe and owner had said it ran in forward, but not reverse. 220v single phase. It doesn't run at all. I've traced out wiring, switches, ect and everything looks intact.
Get voltage at correct places, except contacts do not pull. Manually depressing them, i still do not see voltage. 24v circuit and transformer seems fine.
Looking on the motor side, the diagram and most info is gone, scraped off. I believe it is a single phase motor though as i can see part of diagram and wires only run to 2 lines. I have 4 wires running in. U1, U2, V1, and V2. V2 is not connected. Everything looks unmolested and pretty on. Is it simply bad contactor coils or bad capacitor? The info i've found on comparable lathes, G9249, ect., does not match my electrical config.
My lathe has 2 contacts and others are showing three.
Any help,suggestions, ideas,or thoughts would be appreciated.
 

markba633csi

Registered
Registered
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
4,686
I believe the reversing switch on the left side is what fails on these- I'll post the diagram if I can find it- V2 should be connected for sure, sounds like someone has been messing around in there- can you post some pics?
-mark
 

rodm717

Registered
Registered
Joined
Sep 1, 2017
Messages
46
Good info. That would be great if you could provide a diagram. I don't believe anything schematically was changed. The previous owner may have messed with motor leads to find a work around. He said it ran in forward and not in reverse. But, as i had said, it wont run for me and with older electrical, the more you play with it, the more likely it becomes to create another issue. Really cheap electrical components on these. However replacing and or updating isn't cheap.
W had bought a used turret/laser at work that ran great before being unhooked and moved. We played hell getting to do that again once we got it at our facility. Different league of equipment, but same premise.
 

rodm717

Registered
Registered
Joined
Sep 1, 2017
Messages
46
I found this thread, which has a bunch of information pertaining to some of the unknowns i had on motor. The contactors are slightly different, but wiring schematically looks same. I'll see if i can figure something out with this.

 

markba633csi

Registered
Registered
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
4,686
So your lathe has two contactors with 24 volt coils and you have a 24 volt step down transformer? If so then first I would disconnect the motor wires for safety and determine why the contactors are not pulling. Like I mentioned, the culprit is often a switch which does the reversing function. Unlikely that both contactors are faulty. Is the transformer ok? Is the reversing switch damaged or broken? You may have to take it apart and repair it, since you won't be able to source a new one.
Unfortunately there is scant documentation for the electrics on those Encos, but the wiring is relatively simple. Post some pictures if you can
-mark
 
Last edited:

rodm717

Registered
Registered
Joined
Sep 1, 2017
Messages
46
Correct -220v, 24v coils, and a step down transformer. The reversing switch you are refering to? There are two limit switches on side of gear box for implementing forward and reverse. I have several spare switches from my cnc mill conversion if this is the case.
Also the motor in that thread i referenced is same, however, the letter makers are not. I am guessing "Z" to be same as "U"for my purpose.
I did make a typo in Header. Mine is a 110-2034 also.
 

markba633csi

Registered
Registered
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
4,686
Yes those limit switches would be likely culprits. I believe they are microswitches and could be fitted with replacements pretty easily.
There may also be a headstock safety switch-? Anyhow, your system uses 24 volts which is a lot safer to test live, just be careful working around the 220 volt terminals; put some tape over them to protect yourself- 220 volt shorts can be quite exhilarating! Trace the wires out if you have a voltmeter that will measure low voltage ac like 0 to 50 volts. Shouldn't be too difficult. Once you get the contactors to latch, then move on to the motor wiring. All 4 wires should be connected to the contactors. It is possible for a 220 volt motor to use only 3 wires in some cases.
ps for testing, you could power the transformer from 110 volts temporarily (safer) then reconnect it back later to 220- provided the trans has a 110 volt input tap
 
Last edited:

rodm717

Registered
Registered
Joined
Sep 1, 2017
Messages
46
Yes,I already tested components with multimeter and traced out lines. I did not try to manually jump the wire to latch the switches. Honestly, I didnt think they would be the issue as i can here them actuate and "click". The owner did say it ran though??
I will eventually go to a 3ph motor and vfd like most of my equipment, but not being able to power up and operate the lathe makes identifying other possible issues or things needing fixed, prolongs my being able to utilize the lathe.
Once this is running and up to snuff, i can sell my other lathe and make the wife happy.
 

markba633csi

Registered
Registered
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
4,686
LOL I know what you mean about "the owner said it ran"
If I had a dollar for every lathe buyer who was told that...
The switches may or may not be bad- it may be that some critical wire was detached. Also, even though it's very unlikely, both contactors could have failed coils- possible but rare. Perhaps the previous owner was limping the lathe on one contactor till it eventually died also. Stuff happens
You may want to jumper the 24 volts directly to the coils as a quick test- carefully. You can also check the coils for continuity with your multimeter (with power off)
 
Last edited:

rodm717

Registered
Registered
Joined
Sep 1, 2017
Messages
46
Yep, got it cheap knowing it should be worth more than I paid. Most times you get what you paid for.
I'll test the switches and forge ahead,but already have a mind to switch to vfd and 3ph motor.
 

rodm717

Registered
Registered
Joined
Sep 1, 2017
Messages
46
I ended up finding a new 2hp 3 ph inverter duty motor and vfd for $300. Both switches were bad. One stuck closed, the other open regardless of actuation. I couldn't find a short arm switch of same size and type, save China with longer than a month for delivery. I am going to try to and modify another type of switch I have on hand in the interim.
The apron fwd/rev is too handy not to have. Going to try and keep everything else as stock as possible.
 
It can take up to an hour for ads to appear on the page. See our code implementation guide for more details. If you already have Auto ad code on your pages there's no need to replace it with this code
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock