I just got a central machinery mill/drill (central machinery 45861) that appears to be a clone of the RF 30 or the grizzly 1006. The switch was bad so I got a new one. The new one, after alot of research, was identical to the old one. What i did not notice when i wired it up was that there were some built in jumpers between some of the terminals. when i plugged it in there was a loud pop that came from the outlet and it threw the breaker. I discovered the jumpers after this and removed them. Now, with the wiring exactly as it was before, i hear a hum coming from the motor when i turn the switch to forward (nothing in reverse). One of the capacitors in the back has some melted plastic on the side, the one on the right, the left one looks fine. Im guessing i fried it. Im also guessing i need to replace it. does anyone know where to find one? any ideas if i am doing something wrong? i am not well versed in the intricacies of electrical circuits. thanks for any help
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Help with Mill/drill
- Thread starter weejax
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- Apr 30, 2015
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Post close up pictures of your motor's terminal board and data plate, and your reversing switch. I'll take a look.
The "melted" cap may still be ok- post a pic of that too if you can
Where did you buy the switch? Locally or online? Do you have a simple multimeter/tester?
-Mark
Are you sure of the model number? 45861 appears to be a lathe not a mill/drill:
The "melted" cap may still be ok- post a pic of that too if you can
Where did you buy the switch? Locally or online? Do you have a simple multimeter/tester?
-Mark
Are you sure of the model number? 45861 appears to be a lathe not a mill/drill:
Last edited:
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- Jul 10, 2013
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I looked at your wiring diagram on your lathe. We need pictures, however this may help. Unless the nameplate on the motor says different, you have a 3/4 horse motor. The diagram showed one capacitor. That would be your start capacitor. Since you stared there two capactors. One would be for the start and the other is the run. Unless they are really bad shape. so that you can't read it. One should be around 40uf at 250volt and the other around at 20uf at 400volts. No matter what, replace, these capacitors do age and they do not cost that much. These are non-polarize capacitors that are made for motors that you can get at a electrical shop or on the net. Check the leads for ohms. Two of them U1, U2 or L1, L2 should show a resistance about 2 or 3 ohms. The others will most likely be infinity. Measure each lead to ground or the case of the motor. I should be infinity even at the highest meter reading. If there is any reading to ground, you have a problem. Hope this helps, good luck.
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Oops, that is a mill drill, please recheck the model number. However, what I stated still applies. If the motor is hp other than 3/4, we need to know because the capacitors could be of a different value.
Here are the pics of the capacitors. the green one looks a little melted. also included pic of new switch wired up--it is identical in every way to the old one, except the jumpers which i removed. i think i found some replacement capacitors on amazon. thanks for the help
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- Jul 10, 2013
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The silver cap is toast and that is your start capacitor. Without the start capacitor, the motor will just set there and hum. I'd replace both caps anyway. It's good that you replaced the switch. A bad shorted cap will burn the switch contacts. Hopefully you got the problem solved. 