Help with my Atlas Lathe

Well, I hadn't even considered this but I don't know how else one would get 1/2 of line voltage with the motor running other than that if it is wired for 220 VAC instead of for 110 (if the motor were made today it would say 240 and 120). That would certainly explain why it has almost no power. Post a photo (not a video) of the motor's wiring diagram plate and of the drum switch's connection diagram for 110 VAC single phase reversing.

Or if you feel that you know what you are doing, disconnect all of the motor, drum switch and line cord wiring and reconnect them for 120 VAC single phase, not 240. Or as the plates will be marked because of when the motor and switch were made, 110 VAC instead of 220 VAC.
 
wa5cab said:
Well, I hadn't even considered this but I don't know how else one would get 1/2 of line voltage with the motor running other than that if it is wired for 220 VAC instead of for 110 (if the motor were made today it would say 240 and 120). That would certainly explain why it has almost no power. Post a photo (not a video) of the motor's wiring diagram plate and of the drum switch's connection diagram for 110 VAC single phase reversing.

Or if you feel that you know what you are doing, disconnect all of the motor, drum switch and line cord wiring and reconnect them for 120 VAC single phase, not 240. Or as the plates will be marked because of when the motor and switch were made, 110 VAC instead of 220 VAC.
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This seems like a classic case of a motor wired for 220 running on 110. I've heard of this a bunch, and encountered it myself on a jointer I had purchased. In fact miswiring contributes to machines being sold cheap, it must be an easy mistake to make. You just never know what the previous owner has been up to , or what their skill level was.

Tim
 
I’m sorry. Can someone explain how one would go about wiring a 110V motor as 220v? This seems inconceivable to me.


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craniac said:
This seems like a classic case of a motor wired for 220 running on 110. I've heard of this a bunch, and encountered it myself on a jointer I had purchased. In fact miswiring contributes to machines being sold cheap, it must be an easy mistake to make. You just never know what the previous owner has been up to , or what their skill level was.

Tim
vtcnc said:
I’m sorry. Can someone explain how one would go about wiring a 110V motor as 220v? This seems inconceivable to me.


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Click to expand...
There are jumpers inside the motor that allow you to run the motor either on 110 or 220.. the switch also has to be changed over from one to the other.. I think what has happened in my case is that someone has changed either the motor or the switch. and not the other...

My solution, since it comes off of the machine as one assembly if you will, is too take it too a electric motor shop and ask them to have a look at it. I don't want it to cause a fire and I don't want it to burn up the motor...
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If you will go back to Post #40, which is a photo of the motor data plate, you will see that the motor could be connected for either 110 or 220 VAC. My guess is that the motor is wired for 220 and being run off of today's 120 VAC. From the data plate, you can calculate that when wired for 220, and operated off of 120, the full load amperes would be about 2.18 amps instead of the intended 8 amps. So stalling it would be easy.
 
The electric motor company told me "it's probably a bad winding and will cost about $1500 to rewind".. So.. I don't think the motor is bad.. I do still think it is wired wrong... so I am going to have to work on it...
 
Yes, as I wrote earlier, the motor can be connected for either 110 or 220, and indications are that is is connected for 220. Which today would be 120 or 240.
 
Tonight, I took the switch apart to see if that was the issue. I made sure to take pictures so I could put it back the same way. In the off position, with no wires attached.. each lug is independent of the others. In the Forward position, the top two lugs are connected, the middle two are connected and the bottom two are connected. In Reverse, the top two on the left are connected, the top two on the right are connected and the bottom two are connected. From everything that I can see and read, including the wiring diagram under the cover, THIS appears to be correct. NOW.. watch this video after I reconnected all of the wires.

 
So you have three wire feeder coming off your panel to the switch? Hot, neutral and ground? The blue and red are feeding the motor only from the switch?

And what is the second black wire doing in there?


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