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Winner Home Grown Cutter Grinder

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16 more holes to drill and tap. Then the post mount and it's finished. The power cord will go down thru the post. Tomorrow is another day.

"Billy G"

102_0388 (800 x 531).jpg
 
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Sure will Andy. When I'm done and it's painted it will be gorgeous.

Thank you for the kind words Steve.

"Billy G"
 
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Every wire is inside and set. It got a little crowded when the receptacle was added. I put it in so I could have a removable cord. Now we can pretty up the box. This part might have seemed like childs play to some of you but it was a monumental tssk for me.

"Billy G"

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DMS

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I see three wires coming in, but two are white. Is one of them your earth ground? If so, I would either replace it with a green wire, or tape it off with green tape so you don't get mixed up. The neutral is going to be close to ground potential, assuming the person that wired your hose didn't swap the hot and the neutral at the outlet. Best to make sure that your safety ground is safe. If you can't get a real ground in there, I would consider replacing the metal enclosure with a plastic one if I were you.
 
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The two white and one black are from the motor. In England they are actually two white, one blue. I don't totally understand how they work. I think it is two windings on the motor. Everything works fine at this point. I've had it running. The ground (green) will be moved. The power cord will have a male plug at both ends. One for the house receptacle the other for the receptacle on the side of the box.

"Billy G"

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David S

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Bill if I read you correctly, having a power cord with males on each end is an accident waiting to happen. I guess it was difficult find a male inlet for your enclosure?

David
 

John Hasler

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The power cord will have a male plug at both ends.
Don't ever do that! That's called a suicide cord, for obvious reasons. Put a male connector on the machine and female on the cord. The IEC 6032 connectors used on computers are a good choice.
 
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I told you I was ignorant on this stuff. I can easily change them. Thanks.

"Billy G"
 

DMS

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If you want a removable cord, you could try one of these (or a variant)

http://www.newark.com/multicomp/jr-101/iec-power-inlet-plug-10a-250v/dp/97K2599?mckv=sShye0Dzw|pcrid|33869844621|plid|&CMP=KNC-GPLA

It is a standard plug used on computers and a number of other electronic goods. The main benefit is that the cords are available in various lengths and tend to be cheap because you get them with just about everything you buy ;) These receptacles are also available with integrated on/off switches and/or line filtering. If you can't find one locally, or you don't want to order one, let me know, I have a surplus place near my house; I could toss one in the mail for you.

Now that I understand that the power is coming from the receptacle (thought that was the output), I think your ground is good, but you may want to add a ground output to attach to the frame of your grinder. Simple to do, and makes sure you don't get a zap from exposed metal. You may also consider adding a fuse holder, something like this

http://www.newark.com/littelfuse/03420012h/fuse-holder-6-3-x-32mm-panel-mount/dp/67K1754?MER=PPSO_N_P_FuseBlocksHoldersAndClips_None

so you don't have to open things up to replace it.

That little enclosure looks real clean Bill. Don't want to discourage you; you said you were a little iffy on the electrical side, and we want to keep you safe so we can continue following along ;)

After writing all that, I found a surplus IEC receptacle that has an integrated fuse holder for way cheaper.

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/ACS-56/IEC-RECEPTACLE-W/FUSE-HOLDER/1.html
 
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I have already made the plate to cover from the inside. I will wire it direct before I get any more discouraged. The hole is not that noticeable. :banghead:

"Billy G"
 

David S

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I have already made the plate to cover from the inside. I will wire it direct before I get any more discouraged. The hole is not that noticeable. :banghead:

"Billy G"
Bill I have been watching your progress. Please don't get discouraged, we are just trying to make sure that you don't make something that could electrocute someone in the future. You are obviously a skilled machinist, and just need a bit of help with the electrical.

Good luck and keep posting.

David
 
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It has nothing to do with any comments. When I was 16, the car in front of mine hit a pole. It broke that pole and wires were everywhere. The very top wire was headed for my car. I reached for the handle and that's the last I remember. I woke from a coma in the hospital 4 days later. I was told that I was thrown out the other side of the car. When it comes to electricity I draw an automatic mental block. That's why this is easy for most but not for me. Sorry if it came across the other way. Discourage comes from my inability to move past the past.

"Billy G" :thinking:
 

Dave Smith

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I told you I was ignorant on this stuff. I can easily change them. Thanks.

"Billy G"
Bill--it just shows you how many interested friends you have following your super project and we all care for everyones safety---Dave
 
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Again, thank you everyone. I will get thru this, I always do.

"Billy G"
 
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Is there anything available other than this type of wire clamp? It's UGLY. I am also going to fuse the line as suggested. Didn't see Molly walk in. She never misses a chance to be seen.

"Billy G"

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John Hasler

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Is there anything available other than this type of wire clamp? It's UGLY. I am also going to fuse the line as suggested. Didn't see Molly walk in. She never misses a chance to be seen.

"Billy G"
Search for "strain relief". There's a million different kinds. Heyco is a popular brand. I get them off old junk electronics and appliances.
 
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Here is a link to a company that makes many kinds of strain reliefs. Look up by cod size and search the net for the part number. They are sold all over. Thanks for all the good info you post.



http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/cord-grips/

Thank you all. That last one says "Made In USA", I like that. Side note, I stopped at Sears Hardware. Last 6 days before they close. I bought 2 rolls of 18 gage three wire -- 250 ft./roll for 2 cents/ft.

"Billy G"
 

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I like the type ezduzit showed. They are usually available in the big box stores, but you have to find the right shelf ;) Near me, they are usually near the fittings for flexible conduit.
 
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Could not find a non-metallic one but this will do. The fuse holder will go lower right front.

"Billy G"

102_0394 (800 x 531).jpg
 
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:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: Okie Dokie.

"Billy G"

- - - Updated - - -

It will be one clean looking machine when finished.

"Billy G"

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DMS

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Could not find a non-metallic one but this will do. The fuse holder will go lower right front.

"Billy G"

The only time a metallic gland like that would be an issue is if you had a plastic enclosure. Because the gland is metal, and is attached to the metal box (which is grounded) you are solid. The problem you run into with plastic enclosures and metal fittings is that the box is not grounded, so you have to either ground all the fittings (a major PITA), or you risk a loose wire making those fittings "hot".

Mockup's lookin` good.
 
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Thank you Matt. Got the edges started. I will fill in the bolt heads with JB Weld and finish it up tomorrow. I am going to keep the round-over subtle.

"Billy G"

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