Homemade Evapo-rust

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Andre

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Try a little ceramic heater close to the part as I have done this on parts that do not move and it worked. The metal will expand, but the gunk will not. While the part is very warm try to move it, and once it moves then clean the parts that are hard to get to.
Paul
I heated the chuck several times on the stove (not to a bronze color) but to the point where it wasn't touchable and you can hear the moisture on your fingers sizzling. No luck.

I pushed it apart with the press, using aluminum blocks supporting the hood and a brass compression fitting sleeve going around the jaws bearing on the body. Took around 500 pounds on the press, but that's just a guess from the 20:1 reduction. I soaked everything in a carburetor cleaner bucket, washed everything in the sink with a wire brush, buffed up the jaws a little to remove raised rust, and tomorrow I should be able to press it back together.

I have a feeling this is a very old chuck, and it doesn't have much identification as far as jaw positioning goes. I'll have to play around looking at the thread offsets to find out where they go in relation to each other. They don't have the progressively deeper grooves that Jacobs points out in their assembly guide.

With luck my next project will be a 0MT to 3/8-24 UNF arbor for the AA109.
 

Steve Shannon

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Vinegar is nothing in comparison. With the hydrogen peroxide it's much, much faster!
What strength hydrogen peroxide are you talking about? It's available in 3% (first aid) to about 35-50% for bleach. Higher strengths up to 90%+ can be made for use as rocket propellant but it'll dissolve your flesh if you're stupid.
 

strantor

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I first stumbled upon it as a substitute for PCB etching acid, and quickly discovered it worked well at many things. [...] You will need to refresh the hydrogen peroxide occasionally as oxygen will come out of solution.
How well does it work for etching PCBs? When using for PCBs can it be "rejuvenated" by adding more peroxide? or does it just stop working after a while like ferrric chloride?
 
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Andre

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I believe 2%. Not much but a little really helps.

Never tried etching PCB's. I think I started researching acidic solutions for electroplating.
 

mksj

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Muriatic acid which comes in gallons in the pools areas of most hardware/pool stores will eat through rust very quickly, like minutes. You can dilute it down about 50% with water, always add acid to water, never the other way around. The stuff can is quite caustic, so always where heavy gloves or use tongs for small stuff, and always use full eye protection. Use it in my pool to correct the pH, use it on anything rusted, does quick work of dissolving it away. Need to prep or coat the metal soon after as it will rust quickly.
 

dogma

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Is it necessary to attempt to neutralize any acid left in the surface of the metal after "pickling"? That is, a procedure beyond rinsing and scrubbing the surface with water? I made a first attempt at removing heavy mill-scale overnight with vinegar. It is currently flash rusting as the parts will be welded, so it is not much of an inconvenience to hit them with a non-woven disc before coating.

I suspect additional processing isn't require as etching primers seem to use acid(s). However, I've have seen youtube videos where sodium carbonate is used. I figured that would just be another residue to deal with before coating?
 
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Andre

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I didn't use baking soda or any other base to neutralize any remaining acid. I did oil it however, and have had no issues with rust.
 

Mxmark4

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I use vinegar and hydrogen peroxide to clean my supressor baffles. Its referred to as the "dip" in the supressor arena.
 
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