Homemade lathe tool holders

NormBourne

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Ivevgot an el cheapo Chinese lathe, it's ok for what it is but I'm under a bit of stress regarding the existing tool holder arrangement.

Every time I do something I have to mess around inserting shims etc for different tools.

I am a complete amateur in turning and would appreciate some advice in building a tool holder with the facility to simply adjust tool height with no drama.

Ive no doubt that there would be a proprietary readily available item but cost for me st least, is a factor.

Thanks guys,

Norm.
 
I am a complete amateur in turning and would appreciate some advice in building a tool holder with the facility to simply adjust tool height with no drama.

Ive no doubt that there would be a proprietary readily available item but cost for me st least, is a factor.

Thanks guys,

Norm.

Do a search for "quick change tool post" plans,drawings I know I've seen free plans in various spots around the net.:))
I personaly like the "turret tool post" I've made 2 for my myford and machined them so there the perfect center height with no shimming, one for 3/16 and the other for 1/4 tools.:))
 
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I made my own toolholders for my QCTP and it was definitely worth the effort - it cost me about $1.50 per toolholder for the materials. Of course, this is not including the cost of labor ("free" since I was doing it for myself); however, I would add that the amount of time it took to make these is not great, especially if you set up a kind of production line. I would also say that if you decide to make these, it's worthwhile to make a bunch at the same time as this reduces the effort per unit, and you can't really have too many. If you make these for a dovetail type QCTP you will need some kind of milling capability.

Getting a QCTP for my lathe was one of the best purchases I ever made, and having additional toolholders for the QCTP is even better.

You can see a build log and links to plans here:

https://sites.google.com/site/lagad...lathes-mills-etc/tools---tool-holder-for-qctp


For more information on making QCTPs and toolholders, look here (click on the link and scroll down to "Quick Change Tool Posts"):

https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/useful-links#lathetools
 
Ivevgot an el cheapo Chinese lathe, it's ok for what it is but I'm under a bit of stress regarding the existing tool holder arrangement.

Every time I do something I have to mess around inserting shims etc for different tools.

I am a complete amateur in turning and would appreciate some advice in building a tool holder with the facility to simply adjust tool height with no drama.

Ive no doubt that there would be a proprietary readily available item but cost for me st least, is a factor.

Thanks guys,

Norm.

I have used a version of this for years. Simple, can be made on the lathe, cheap

http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/projects/toolpost/toolpost.html

Also, there is a ton of info at that site.
 
Ivevgot an el cheapo Chinese lathe, it's ok for what it is but I'm under a bit of stress regarding the existing tool holder arrangement.

Every time I do something I have to mess around inserting shims etc for different tools.

I am a complete amateur in turning and would appreciate some advice in building a tool holder with the facility to simply adjust tool height with no drama.

Ive no doubt that there would be a proprietary readily available item but cost for me st least, is a factor.

Thanks guys,

Norm.
G day Norm,

First up,to get you going try using sticky tape to keep the cutting tool matched to the shim pack, this makes set up a bit easier until you get your QCTP.
I am just 300 Kms or so down the highway a bit from you at Mackay and own a 12 x 36 generic Chinese lathe .The start point for you will be the size of your lathe as that will determine what the dimension of the proposed tool post will be.

Do you intend to use High Speed Steel tooling or will you opt for carbide?
I mainly use high speed steel as it is much cheaper and versatile in that ,I can shape (grind) it it to any profile I desire.

As I said the size of your lathe determines the size of the tool post needed.I was fortunate to receive a quick change toolpost with my new lathe.

To help you understand the topic better,I have cut and pasted the following from UK lathes.

<Size: When you see a lathe branded as, for example, 4" x 24" what does this mean?
The "English" method of sizing a lathe is to quote the centre height - or "throw" - the distance from the centre of the chuck to the nearest point on the bed. In this case the centre height is 4" and the distance between centres (the maximum length of material the lathe can accommodate) 24".

With a “bigger-and-better” attitude the Americans of course quote the largest diameter of a workpiece that can be turned clear over the bed - termed the "swing" - and so, in the example above, the American sizing would be 8" x 24". Some American makers, South Bend for example, also quoted the bed length as part of the specification; however, this is an irrelevant figure - it neither tells you the longest piece of material that can be turned, nor the length of the lathe. How big to go? Well, bigger is not necessarily better - and moving larger machines can be an expensive proposition. For most home machinists and small repair workshops something between a 3” x 15” and 6” x 30” machine will be ideal. >

Also the power of the lathe determines the size of slot cut in the tool post block to take the tool holder ,my 12 x 36 lathe takes a 5/8" or 16mm tool holder which holds a 1/4",3/16" or 1/8" HSS tool.

I normally use 5/8" square cold rolled steel bar bored down the axis to hold my HSS steel cutting tools.I do have some Carbide tooling but the special tool holders shaped to fit individual carbide cutting tools are very expensive.

Norm, if you can tell us what the size of your lathe is we should be able to go forth from there.

If you are going to make your own Quick change tool post you need to consider what machinery and tool are available to you.Quite often many of us who reply to inquiries forget the beginner may not have the equipment that we do. For instance to make the dovetail it is better to have them done on the mill ,but what to do if you don't have a mill.

Cheers
Ozwelder
 
100_0716.JPG

I made this one the write up is on this
forum somewhere.. Ray

100_0716.JPG
 
The QCTP in this link is very similar to the set I made for my Hercus 9". Easy to set up and quite solid. And, as Mac says, can be made from assorted bits of scrap.

View attachment 77137

This very similar to the "KRF" brand of tool holders sold in the US. KRF used to sell plans for their "Omni Post" too; holders, not sure of that anymore. But the idea is straight forward and one does not need a milling machine to make them. You can clamp the block to the post rig an end mill in the chuck or collet and mill the slot for the tool using the cross slide. Everything else is four jaw chuck work or drill press. http://www.krfcompany.com/ I use these on my 14" X 40" Taiwan lathe and I like them just as much as the Aloris, etc. systems. I understand that KFR uses 2 1/4 chrome 1/2 moly steel and case hardens them to a depth of about 0.007" but this is not necessary. Heavy section makes up for lower tensile materials-witness the days of cast iron.

I always thought that the old time railroad engineering was humorous. If it broke they made it thicker and bigger, if that broke, the made it thicker and bigger yet, until it quit breaking.

Therefore, just a good block of any reasonable steel may be used until you get your feet good and wet. You can make one for a boring bar and even a cut off tool. Cutting off or parting off is something that must be approached with care. That is still one operation that I dread, at least in steel. But I digress.

Cheers, Geoff
 
This very similar to the "KRF" brand of tool holders sold in the US. KRF used to sell plans for their "Omni Post" too; holders, not sure of that anymore. But the idea is straight forward and one does not need a milling machine to make them. You can clamp the block to the post rig an end mill in the chuck or collet and mill the slot for the tool using the cross slide. Everything else is four jaw chuck work or drill press. http://www.krfcompany.com/ I use these on my 14" X 40" Taiwan lathe and I like them just as much as the Aloris, etc. systems. I understand that KFR uses 2 1/4 chrome 1/2 moly steel and case hardens them to a depth of about 0.007" but this is not necessary. Heavy section makes up for lower tensile materials-witness the days of cast iron.

I always thought that the old time railroad engineering was humorous. If it broke they made it thicker and bigger, if that broke, the made it thicker and bigger yet, until it quit breaking.

Therefore, just a good block of any reasonable steel may be used until you get your feet good and wet. You can make one for a boring bar and even a cut off tool. Cutting off or parting off is something that must be approached with care. That is still one operation that I dread, at least in steel. But I digress.

Cheers, Geoff

If your lathe permits, construct a rear tool post for cutoff work. It works a lot better.
 
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