HORIZONTAL MILL ARBORS

BROCKWOOD

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I bought a rusted up set of Van Norman no2 Collets. My search for Evapo-Rust on the interweb shows Home Depot sells it by the gallon. Not my Home Depot. They carry the brand in the pics. Stuff works so well, that I decided to keep up the good work by using it on this 1" Horizontal Arbor. 1st time I had it apart & the wear on the shaft surprised me. This 1 had no key while my 1.25" version has a short key of 4" or so. Should I just plan a key that runs the entire shaft & not worry about the wear? Looking for suggestions.


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It looks like just scoring, not so much like wear; arbors should have full keyways, most of them do. Arbors are generally fairly hard, it might be difficult to key it; if you can file it fairly easily, it would likely be soft enough to cut a keyway.
 
Sorry, it does have a full length keyway - I just don't have a piece of keystock in it. All the complete set of spacers also have the keyway! The scoring is deeper than just feeling them with a fingernail in places. So, my question is about how long of a key I should add to the existing keyway. My 1.250" bar has a short key of 4" & has no scoring. Just learning friends.

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My thoughts are sometime the collars were loose letting the cutters wear the arbor. or there was a different use made of the arbor. The 1" arbor on my Atlas mill has a keyway but the spacing collars do not so I have several projects for my shaper. Just learning as well, perhaps some of the experienced mill operators will post some thoughts. It would seem that a 3" or 4" key would be sufficient. Just a guess however.
Have a good day
Ray
 
Generally, those scores are caused by a very narrow cutter, like a slitting saw hanging up in a cut, shearing a slot in the key and scoring the arbor in its continued rotation, however brief that may be, been there, done that. usually, the cutter will be broken in the process, causing more damage, in spite of timely efforts to disengage the feed and stop the spindle. I remember a poor soul in my apprenticeship shop having a setup with six 1/8 X six" diameter slitting saws, cutting out Charpy inpact specimens from 3/8" plate; something went wrong, and pretty much all the saws were destroyed, keys sheared, a big mess; alles scheise!
 
John,
In my imagination an abundant supply of oil to the cutting area helps to prevent problems but am curious if there are things to watch for like dulling cutters in slots?
Ray
 
We were using Cimcool water soluable coolant concentrate, which back in the 1960s promoted free cutting; the problem was that this job was being done on a WW-1 vintage, pretty well worn Cincinnati #5 horizontal mill, the table being about 7 or 8 feet long, and the knee badly worn on the vertical ways; the job was set up near the center of the table, and I think that when the weight of the table passed over the center of gravity, it caused a shift in geometry that caused a much higher chip load for a brief time, overloading the cutters; poor Fred Fales was in a world of **** for what happened, although he had nothing to do with its cause; we had a fair amount of junk machinery in that shop, but also some quite nice machinery as well, and did the best we could with what we had to work with; I could go on a couple of more paragraphs about the way it was, but will leave that for a later (possible) installment.
 
My dad was a boy while his dad was stationed in Germany. This was late 40s, after the war. Had to look up the translation! All I learned growing up was "hurry up please". Thanks guys!
 
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