HORIZONTAL MILL ARBORS

I certainly am mostly English, but that includes mostly northern European DNA (Orkney Islands), BUT looking at ancestors, I am 1/32nds German, with my Kettering side, I almost want to march!
BROCKWOOD said:
My dad was a boy while his dad was stationed in Germany. This was late 40s, after the war. Had to look up the translation! All I learned growing up was "hurry up please". Thanks guys!
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Mach schnell!
 
I did want to learn the language, but when I was in school, after WW-2, German was not offered in the curriculum until I was in junior college, too late for me, but my apprenticeship shop was a virtual United Nations, Germans, Austrians, Lithuanians, a very good friend, best man in the shop, a Croatian --- I learned much about post war politics amongst those folks, sadly, most all have passed away, but perhaps happily, all of their prejudices against each other, with them; R.I.P.
 
There were times when some old school machinist would say it's better to slip the cutter then break it apart. I've always used a key a few inches wider then the cutter. It saves cost on spacers key cut ones cost more then just bored ones , I also locked the key in between with just the bored ones.
 
I am fortunate to have both the 1.25" & 1" arbors with spacers. Both have full length keyways & all spacers are keyed as well. They are also good for a 16" gap between supports if needed - lots of room for positioning! Now, I did pick up a 0.875" arbor without a key slot or spacers. Silverbullet adds a nice touch to how to proceed in adding the keyway & spacers. After all this is only going to be usable with 8" of gap between supports. Seems a short keyway & selective keyed / unkeyed spacers would not be too difficult! Pic tomorrow.
 
Two thoughts for you, Brockwood ...
1. Evaporust gallons are available at Harbor Freight
2. Be cautious about leaving parts partially submerged (at least with Evaporust). Freshly de-rusted steel is vulnerable, and at the "waterline," will try to re-oxidize, de-rust, etc. etc. and you can get an etched mark there.
 
You are correct John H! Came out like you said. I just brushed the parts & rotated them every 2 hours, so not bad but not even either. Any recommendations on blackening or bluing?

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