How can I buffer the starting torque?

[AGCB97]

3\4 hp seems like it maybe under powered for a table saw.

I agree.

 

[Janderso]

The saw had a 1 1/2 hp motor but the old house it’s going to has inadequate power to run the amp load. I have that motor in my stash now. It’s a Marathon.
This is a compromise.
This saw is a $75 Craig’s list find that my son found. It has the large cast iron table, you know, the 1960{s carpenter saw.
I may be able to put in a 1 hp motor but I thought a good old 3/4 hp Rockwell is just as good as a modern 1hp.
The saw is my son’s. He is renting a 1930’s house with screw in 15 amp fuses.
I never considered it when we picked up the saw.

Mike, I’ll pull the end cap off tonight.
Thanks guys!

 

[Janderso]

I found this video that helped me understand what I am looking at.
According to this fellow, if the switch is bad I need to replace the motor.
I tell you, at this point it seems like the thing to do. I am spending too much time on this saw project.
It's a 2 part video for anyone interested.

 

[markba633csi]

Jeff: If you can just open the motor and clean the switch mechanism and contacts (Hawkeye post #10) It would be worth your time. If the switch has broken parts though it would be better to just replace the motor. You might be able to epoxy broken parts though, I've done it.
I really think sawdust could be the only problem since it's a wood working machine, I've heard this happens often
-Mark

 

[Janderso]

Mark,
I can see the switch or part of it flapping around when I move the motor. To me if it is flapping around it can't make contact at start up.
Is there a spring of some sort that places it against the contacts at rest?

 

[markba633csi]

Yes it could be a single flat spring like in Mike's picture or a couple separate springs. You'll see when you open it up. Could even be that one or more springs came loose or broke, if the mechanism is flapping around
-M
ps there are actually two mechanisms: the switch is one, the centrifugal mechanism is the other, connected together mechanically
There are many different variations on the theme, depending on the brand

 

[middle.road]

If you were here in this area I'd say to look for stink bugs.
They have gummed up a couple of centrifugal switches on me.
Grab a can of electrical motor or contact cleaner and give it a try.
I'm leaning towards what Doc, Bob and Hawkeye posted above.
3/4HP is enough to run that saw for light work. It won't be going through 2" hardwood though.

 

[CluelessNewB]

The saw is my son’s. He is renting a 1930’s house with screw in 15 amp fuses.

1) Are you sure motor is wired for 110V?
2) Are your cords short and correct size? (I would use at least 14 gauge)
3) How far is the outlet from the panel? (Older house may have substandard wiring).

 

[Janderso]

1) Are you sure motor is wired for 110V?
2) Are your cords short and correct size? (I would use at least 14 gauge)
3) How far is the outlet from the panel? (Older house may have substandard wiring).

Ha,
It's a mess. There is some romex running from the back of the fuse box that runs along the house, down the wall across the carport then into the garage. The trick is to turn off the lights or fans in the house. Who knows what else is on the circuit. It's all jury rigged.
Back in the 30's you had a lamp in the den and 1 outlet in every room!

I agree with the power reduction, he'll probably use it for plywood and less than 1" moldings etc.
He has a nice new sliding compound.

 

[Janderso]

) Are you sure motor is wired for 110V?

Yes