How can I buffer the starting torque?

Found it.
The contacts should be closed right now. When I open the centrifugal switch the contacts move away from each other I guess I can try and bend the tabs so they are touching.
I am so proud of myself!!View attachment 338956

Well done Jeff!
Motors are a black art to me so kudos to you for digging in and sorting it out!


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That's right Jeff the contacts should be closed when the motor is stopped. A little bending and you should be off to the races
-M
 
Wait one.
I tokk it back apart this time. It popped off the rotor shaft. There is a little brass flapper that was underneath one of the contactors, after it popped off the shaft it got repositioned between the contacts. I think it's right now. What do you think?
When it popped off the contact pivot mechanism was cocked to one side, I think this happened before when someone else was into this motor and they put it back the wrong way. otherwise what is the little brass contactor for?
The two silver colored contacts are stiff and not bent so it does not appear they are out of alignment. The brass flapper opens and closes the contact now that it is back in play.
I made all this up but it makes sense???

Look at the difference in the last pic. mot2.jpg. There is no brass contacter between the two metal (silver) contacts.
Proof is in the pudding. Ill give it a go later today.
 

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This is the new configuration of the points = start winding connection.points.jpg
 
Just a comment, if I may. US currency paper is about the best contact burnisher there is. Never file contact points. A dollar bill works well, a hundred works better. Not for the reason implied though. When I traveled throughout Micronesia, my expense allowance was in cash, in US $100 bills. A single, $1 note was in common usage. A $100 note was more rare, as in less used, less worn. I set up a system operator in the Marshals with that one. He bit, bad too.

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Bill,
Does the current configuration look correct to you?
 
There about as many configurations as there are motor builders. Maybe more so, for over the years improvements and other changes will have been made. Some for materials, some for cost, some just because. If I sat down and took the motor apart, I could judge the operational condition. But just looking at a few photos, I can't accurately judge whether the contact is functional or not. It isn't burned, that's a good sign. Any more, I couldn't say one way or the other. The back of the motor frame is open to free air. With a pointer, wood is the preference, move the flyweight, what little it moves. If the contacts open and close when it moves a "few" times, it's probably alright. As long as the wiring doesn't foul the switch and is not grounded, it too is OK.

Many motors have the contacts mounted in the "end bell" with the flyweight mounted on the shaft. It is difficult at best to reassemble such and even more so to test. Then there are the TEFC motors, which are simply best left alone, even if they are intermittent. Whether to run the motor is your call, the repair cannot be done remotely. It isn't like a computer. . .

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Ok Bill,
I appreciate your common sense point of view. I was hoping you would say, heck yeah, that's perfect. :)

I have a 1hp back up TEFC. Brand new. I am going to run 10 AWA wire from the power source to a single pole outlet.
That is giving the best possible power supply in the old house that jack built.
 

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i would respectfully disagree on one point with Bill, in regards to filing contacts.
if you have a dedicated set of files that are solely used for filing contacts, file as you see fit.
the danger occurs when you use a contaminated file to file contacts due to the unwanted iron, aluminum, etc. trapped in the file.
the contaminants may alter the flow of electricity and may shower sparks under unfavorable conditions.
i have filed many sets for silver contacts with dedicated files
 
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