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How do you like your Grizzley G0602 10x22 lathe?
- Thread starter HMF
- Start date
I don't have anything on my 10x22 that I don't like. Well maybe the paint, it chips off very easily. I designed and built a reverse tumbler gear set for mine then a speed reducer, got the spindle speed down to 58 rpms. I'm going to do some changes to the speed reducer design so it will go even slower, just haven't done the changes yet. I installed a wedge type QCTP and really like that.
I would like to be able to get the oiler things out of the top of the lathe cabinet where your supposed to oil the spindle with out resorting to destroying them, then install grease zerks , I grease the spindle bearing instead of using oil, I use a needle point grease tip now to grease the spindle bearing.
I would like to be able to get the oiler things out of the top of the lathe cabinet where your supposed to oil the spindle with out resorting to destroying them, then install grease zerks , I grease the spindle bearing instead of using oil, I use a needle point grease tip now to grease the spindle bearing.
I purchased my G0602 about two years ago and really enjoy using it. When it first arrived I changed the oil and broke it in as the manual suggested but things didn't quite feel right. It was my first lathe and the first time using one so i really didn't have any thing to go by but the cross slide and top slide didn't feel smooth so I took them apart to find alot of grit on the gibs, I cleaned and lobed every thing and that solved that. I also noticed when I oiled the spindle bearings that the oil coming out of the sides of the bearings was dark and kind of gritty so I dismantled the spindle to find more grit on the bearings, guess that's why the spindle didn't feel as smooth as it should have. I put the machine back together but the bearings still don't feel right I plan on changing them in the next few months for some timkin bearings. One more thing I had a problem with was when threading with the half nut and thread dial, It just don't start at the right position once you release the half nut so I just pull the cross slide back throw it in reverse then set my cross slide again and continue from there. I really think these are minor issues for a machine that cost me $1050.00 with free shipping.
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2011
- Messages
- 8
For the price it's a pretty decent machine, I've had mine approximately 2 1/2 years and the only problem I've had to date is the machine getting a little loose (adjusting the Gibbs helped quite a bit) and the only other real issue is the backlash on the carriage over a period of time with moderate use, although minor it can be somewhat frustrating if you are doing a lot of facing, I haven't had the time to look into it as of yet, but as soon as I do I'll post whatever fix was necessary, otherwise the machine has done me pretty good in that period of time.
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2011
- Messages
- 2
I'm a first-time lathe user (!) who caught the machining bug later in life. That said, I'm very happy with my G0602! If you understand that you are getting a work-in-progress, rather than a ready-out-of-the-box tool, how could you be disappointed? And given that a high-quality ready-out-of-the-box lathe would start at 10x more, it's great! Heck, given the price of cast iron and steel these days, I don't think I could buy the raw metal in the lathe for the price I paid for the G0602.
Also, I think there's a reason that I haven't seen the G0602 on sale at Grizzly for about two years: they must be popular!
Bruce.
Also, I think there's a reason that I haven't seen the G0602 on sale at Grizzly for about two years: they must be popular!
Bruce.
Had it for about 11/2 years and have done a fair amount of work with it over all for the price point I believe it is a good machine if I were to do again I would look at the PM machine the biggest complaint I have with the 0602 is that you can not get the rpm down near as low as I would like and the tailstock clamp is terrible although this is an easy fix
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2015
- Messages
- 9,578
I did a motor transplant and I can go down to 10 rpm. For any given pulley combination I have a 50:1 speed range.
I also fixed the tailstock clamp so that goes from free to full lock in a little over 90º which permits the use of a permanent wrench. I made a custom wrench from an old 3/4" socket and ratchet handle. Here is a link to the solution, starting at post# 6.
G0602 tailstock driving me nuts
I use the tailstock on my g0602 constantly, and it has been driving me nuts for the longest time. One of the more common things people do is just leave a 17mm wrench on the tailstock at all times. I've read lots of posts in various places, talking about how "it only takes half a turn" to snug...
www.hobby-machinist.com
What did you do for a motor transplant that allows you to get your rpm down that would be great , as far as tailstock I did the cam lock and it works great but it is a bit of an involved projectI did a motor transplant and I can go down to 10 rpm. For any given pulley combination I have a 50:1 speed range.
I also fixed the tailstock clamp so that goes from free to full lock in a little over 90º which permits the use of a permanent wrench. I made a custom wrench from an old 3/4" socket and ratchet handle. Here is a link to the solution, starting at post# 6.
G0602 tailstock driving me nuts
I use the tailstock on my g0602 constantly, and it has been driving me nuts for the longest time. One of the more common things people do is just leave a 17mm wrench on the tailstock at all times. I've read lots of posts in various places, talking about how "it only takes half a turn" to snug...
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2015
- Messages
- 9,578
I used a 2.5 hp brushed d.c. motor with a control circuit of my own design utilizing pulse width modulation. To enhance low end torque, I have a feedback circuit that compares the actual motor speed to the set motor speed so that when the motor starts to slow down under load, it increases the pulse width, thereby increasing torque. To measure the motor rpm, I have forty magnets built into the intermediate pulley and a Hall effect sensor, creating a rotary encoder
I still have some work to do on it to optimize the feedback settings. To that end, I am working on a Prony brake to measure the torque at the spindle which will allow me to plot torque curves.
As to my tailstock modification, it is essentially a cam lock. The wrench shown in post #16 of the above linked thread resides permanently on the tailstock clamp nut. Were I making one from scratch, I would make a rectangular nut to fit some 1/2-13 threaded rod and weld the nut to the end of the rod to make a rectangular head bolt. A fairly simple project. For the wrench ,a cheap box wrench could be cut off to make a more compact wrench which could live on the nut.
I have this lathe and have had it for a number of years now. As stated above, it's a good purchase for the money. A few fixes and I'll be relatively pleased with it. The biggest is a leaky gearbox which is currently off the machine (second time) and on my workbench. Also, and as stated above is, the crappy tailstock for which I'll be addressing also.